r/JeepLiberty

This sucks 2 weeks our jeep started missing we'll it was throwing misfire codes for cylinder 2 so I changed simple the like plugs and coil pack an still misfiring so I figured it was a fuel injector so I wasted more money on that shit so I finally checked the compression an it only had 25 pounds lol idk why I didn't check that first before I wasted money but it has been a dependable vehicle we've had it since 2017 an it's got 308,000 miles so I reckon it was due to blow up lol anyhow this sucks bad so Don't do like I did and go replacing parts Go ahead and check that compression in whichever cylinder is misfiring to make sure it's got good compression lol

Any thoughts on what I should be looking for? It was my mom's, and has 147,000 miles. She says the main issues she's having are the catalytic converter is bad (or o2 sensors...) and of course she had the TIPM issue a few years back and did some sort of bypass on it to make it run. Otherwise she says it's a strong runner and doesn't have any other issues. Also, does anyone have any experience with the Infinity Gold sound system? Is it worth anything or should I take it out and install my own? Ice heard they sound okay, but I'm a little picky about my sound quality. Thanks for reading and any feedback!

I've had 2 mechanics tell me my front right CV axle and ball joint still need replaced but I haven't gotten around to those yet... I personally didn't trust either mechanic at the time because they seemed to be upselling me parts rather than fixing the issue I brought my car in for.

I searched numerous forums yesterday and I've seen at least 3 different mentions of the belt size that bypasses the ac pulley. I've read everything from 79" to 83". Can someone that has done it on an 06 model tell me what size worked for you? I understand that a slight variation in length can still work because of the tensioner so please let me know of 1 that worked for you. My daily driver is a v8 and it is costing me 15 every trip to town right now so I want to get it right the 1st trip

Hello everyone, I need help with my 2007 Jeep Liberty 3.7L V6. I have been dealing with a very frustrating intermittent issue for a long time and I’m running out of ideas.

Current codes:

P0174 (System Too Lean Bank 2)

P0300 (Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire)

Sometimes P0138, then it switches to P0158

Previously had injector and ignition related issues

Main symptoms:

The engine shakes heavily at idle

The vehicle runs rough and unstable

I believe the issue is mainly affecting cylinders 2, 4, and 6

Power delivery feels inconsistent and the idle is not smooth

What I already did:

Replaced all injector connectors with new copper wire pigtails

Soldered and heat-shrinked every connection properly

Checked injector positive voltage (around 14.1–14.3V)

Verified injector pulse on all injectors

Replaced the PCM once

Replaced the EGR valve

Fuel pressure is around 50 PSI

Checked wiring continuity

Performed smoke tests looking for vacuum leaks

Checked upstream and downstream O2 sensors

What I noticed:

Cylinders 2, 4, and 6 behave differently from 1, 3, and 5

Injector ground pulse appears weaker on one bank

Sometimes disconnecting cylinder 2 or 4 barely changes the idle

The problem seems to move between Bank 1 and Bank 2 related codes

Could a bad ground, PCM control issue, shared sensor signal, damaged harness, or another hidden electrical issue cause this behavior even after replacing connectors and checking the wiring?

Any advice or ideas would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.

Recently bought a 2010 Liberty for my daughter it’s a pretty slick little unit, my only complaint so far is the placement of the oil filter, did a little swearing when I changed the oil for her yesterday.

2012 Liberty - TL;DR at bottom

I am at-best an amateur DIY’er. I chased this turn signal for a while. I initially thought it was a bad bulb. I changed the turn signal housings last year and changed the bulbs thinking it was that - it was not.

About a month ago I was determined to figure it out. I watched a bunch of YouTube videos.

At first, I cleaned all the ground connections right beneath the battery. I took apart all the grounds, separated them from the ring connector, cut them, wire cleaned the ring connector and contact area. I figured out that the fog light and wipers are in this bundle. I put them back together with a little solder. Still, turn signal was no good while headlight was on. Also, my side parking marker was no good.

I thought maybe the parking side marker was burned bc it was black like the bulb had burned through. My turn signal did not look this way but I wondered if a connection was loose. I bought both sockets (where the bulb inserts) new, connected them, wiggled wires. Still, no cigar.

I saw a video on YouTube on how to check the grounds using alligator clips. I knew power was getting to the turn signal bc they worked with the headlights off. I plugged a paper clip to the red alligator clip and inserted it into the turn signal plug coming from the car. Connected the other end to the bulb. Did the same with the ground connections in the plug and connected the black ground clip to the bulb - no light still. I then took the alligator clip from the plug and connected it directly from the negative terminal on the car battery to the bulb - voila - turn signal was finally back with headlights on.

After all that, I cut the ground wire in the plug (coming from the car; 2 green/1 black wire - cut the black wire), used a crimp and solder connection to connect an 18 gauge wire, and grounded it with a crimp ring connector to the existing ground bundle by the battery. After a long time, I have a turn signal working while headlights on.

I wrote all this to encourage you to take this common gremlin on and don’t be scared lol. I didn’t mind buying small parts for this. I ended up needing a wire stripper/crimper, 18 gauge wire, waterproof crimp and solder butt connectors and ring connectors, wire loom, and loom tape. Do this shit. It’s annoying but do-able.

For me it was a bad ground somewhere in the wire but not exactly at the ring connector.

**TLDR** have no turn signal with headlights on? Try cleaning ground bundle beneath battery. Likely bad. Cut, clean, re-bundle. That didn’t work? Cut ground (black) wire at the turn signal plug (2 green wires, 1 black - you want to cut the black wire), watch a YouTube video how to use crimp and solder connectors, test as I did using alligator clips, reassemble everything, and that should be it!

I understand there may be other problems causing this, but this seems to be the most common solution. I’d just never seen someone put it all together in one place. I had to piece together my steps.