
r/JapaneseWoodworking

What is a hand plane hitter?
I'm not sure what I'm looking at. Is this for...flattening? Hardening? It says maintenance, but I don't have a clue what kind of maintenance would require hitting the bevel.
I just wanted to show off my achievement after a year of waiting! I collaborated with a local blacksmith to make a planer blade in the Japanese style, with a 30-degree angle. It actually worked on my workpieces. They are quite hard, and the damage to the blade after testing is still okay. I think there will probably still be some minor damage, but I'll fix it gradually!
Hello,
I really like this saw, and I ant to continue to use it for a long time of possible. Trouble is replacement badges seem to be a struggle to find. Any ideas on where to find blades within te US, or is there an aeptabe Gyokucho alternative blade that is more readily available? Thanks in advance!
Kanna blade
A wonderful day to all! Just wanted to ask for some help in identifying the maker of this kanna blade. Thanks a lot!!
Would You Guys be able to help me identify this chisel manufacturer
I have been attempting to ID this chisel, but have had no luck. Could you guys please help me?
Looking for the book "Wood Joints In Classical Japanese Architecture, by Torashichi Sumiyoshi and Gengo Matsui"
I'm fan of this book, already have it in pdf, buy i wish to have a physical copy of it. But i can't find anywhere the english version of it, just the japonese one. Anyone would have an idea of where i can find it? Thanks !!
Found these two for sale and want to know if they're worth it. The only thing the seller mentions is that they are Koyama brand and boxwood handles. Can anyone identify these or add any information about steel quality? Couldn't find any information online. Thank you.
I know glue is not often discussed here. But Is there pH neutal wood glues?
I made a little wooden knife sheath for a Kiridashi. I used two thin pieces of cedar and glued them together.
I used Titebond II
Now the knife starts rusting when in the sheath!
Are there pH neutral wood glues? I was reading Titebond II has an acidic pH of 3 (Titebond III is 2.5)
I use the term “misfits” endearingly. I got these used and beat chisels on electronic Bay with the idea of fixing them up a bit to not only develop and practice my skills, or lack tree of, but to also give these guys a second life. I was hoping to learn a little more about them if possible , and I figured the fine folks here may be able to shed some light based on the markings. Any insight is greatly appreciated, thank you.
Also, my apologies for lacking hoot quality.
Looking for a new good quality square, any recommendations?
So many different options but wondering what people use, brands etc.
I'm making this atedai out of old red oak flooring. I've been trying to do as much as possible by hand. It's been a learning experience for sure. At this point I've got it to the size I want, and the surface very close to flat, but have a couple problems I need help with.
First, 90% of the surface is flat, but you might be able to see in the second photo where there is a dip, probably only about 0.5-1 mm, in a second about 4x8 inches. Should I plane down the entire surface until that is level, fill the gap with something, or just sand it leave it? The problem I'm having is that the surface is mostly flat but just ever so slightly cupped, so I'm getting almost nothing with the plan on each pass, so it would take a lot of time and work to bring the surface down. I'm not crazy about the other options though.
Second problem is the tear out. If I were to do this again, I would pay more attention to grain direction, but this is my first time doing something like this and was more focused on getting the floor boards shaped into something I could laminate to the piece and have a clean surface than anything, so the grain direction is difficult. Is there a decent way to fill tear out or just sand, cabinet scraper, or get extra sharp blades on the final pass?
2.2mm at the thickest part and 1.5mm at the thinnest. I don't quite know yet how im going to get this working, shouldn't be that hard though. Also there's no makers mark which is odd.
I set out a goal of making a kanna plane, why you ask? because im way overconfident in myself and “it cant be that hard”. To make it even better i never done something like that before! well here’s where my question begin, so far i know that both the blade and plane body have hollows in the middle (does the hollow in the body extend to the edge? or stop right before it) but there’s a plethora or things i dont know.
-does it require a specific quality of wood? or random piece of quartersawn oak/beech will do
-what would the bed angle be for a smoothing plane?
-how to mark out the location of the crossbar so the chipbreaker sits nice with the blade?
-maybe blade/chipbreaker recommendations?
Im probably missing way more stuff than i can imagine, so if a more informed person decides to waste 5 minutes of their life sharing some knowledge, id greatly appreciate it.
Can anyone help me identify this chisel? Thank you!
This video shows the process of setting up a Kumiko Kanna (i made it myself). It didn't take too much time, did it?
I am building a simple timber frame from round wood. White pine in the parts that will be exposed to the weather.
I'd like to control the checking so that it is in the wall thickness (which will be light straw clay) rather than on an exposed face. I've come across a few mentions of the technique of sewari to accomplish this - a kerf cut lengthwise along the middle of a face and possibly widened with wedges as drying proceeds to force the checking to mostly happen on that face. That sounds just like what I want to do.
Anyone I've been able to find who is doing this uses a skill saw or somethings similar. The catch is that I work entirely with hand tools. I don't have a way to get electricity to the site, and I wouldn't want to if I could. I presume sewari is older than power tools, so how was it done? How can I cut a deep lengthwise kerf with hand tools? Or does it work to just carefully split the log along a line with an axe or wedges?
Hi! I'm quite new to woodworking with hand tools and while I understand, at least in theory, how to square rough sawn boards with western tools, I'm really not sure how I should approach this task with the Japanese tools, which I'd like to use in the future, as research on this topic quickly become very jargon-y.
I have some rough oak boards (2,5cm / 1in thick), for which I have some projects planned. I just ordered my first batch of Japanese tools, including two smoothing planes (42x150mm and 60x255mm). If I understand correctly, these are not really the most appropriate for removing large amounts of material when initially planing rough boards.
Should I:
a) initially just work with these two planes, simply taking more passes until the board is nice and flat?
b) modify one of the planes and shape the blade into a more curved shape to take larger bites in the wood (I've seen some people do that)?
c) order an arashiko kanna (design for specifically this purpose), which seems exceedingly difficult to find in the EU?
Thanks for any tips :)