So we moved to a new home with garden beds. It has a 6 outlet drip emmitter installed near one corner. it also has drip lines and drip heads attached. I'm new to irrigating and gardening in general. But, everything I've learned so far is telling me this setup may be strange. I see much better systems online. How do I improve this setup? is there any advice I could use?
I've had it with these Orbit valves, just constant fiddling and fussing needed to get them to work with any kind of consistency. Orbit has a 3.5" spacing for the input/output, while Hunter (and Rainbird) use a 4" spacing. is there a good way to do this without digging everything up?
Was this winterized incorrectly? is there a slow leak from the valve inside? or did water actually backflow into it and freeze? How can I prevent this from happening again?
First time installing irrigation in my small backyard (15' x 40') and I want to make sure I have the correct components. Three backflow preventer valves stemming from a main line. Two of them or for drip lines, so the valves will connect to pressure regulators. The third is for sprinklers, so I am not using a regulator. All three valves will connect to a Rainbird controller. Am I missing anything? Thank you so much for your help!!
I draw harvested rainwater from five 1500 gal. cisterns for irrigation only, including a system to switch to potable town water when the tanks are dry (see photos). In troubleshooting a leak losing 10 gal/hr only when the potable water valve is open (per town water utility reports), my irrig. pro and I have narrowed the problem to the 1" Watts LF7U2-2 dual check valve that should be keeping town water from flowing into the RWH tanks. The configuration worked for 9 years before these leaks started. Both dual check valves have been replaced; the 3/4" Watts LF7RU2-2 in 2024. Is there a better valve choice than the 1" Watts LF7U2-2? I should be able to leave the town water valve open at all time. A relay runs a pump in the RWH tanks; when there is no water in the tanks, irrigation should come from the potable water. Thanks.
I have this plant bed next to my pool and I want to replace that sprinkler with a drip irrigation head because the plant closest to the sprinkler blocks the spray from reaching the other plants. I've had to cut them all back due to a cold snap here in Florida so I figure now is the time to do it.
I know very little about irrigation and the only conversion heads I can find are just as tall as the existing head. I also don't have much room under the dirt line to lower a tall head. is there another way to convert the sprinkler head to drip? and if so, what do I need?
We have spent the last 4 years dealing with our back flow preventer spewing water at random times throughout summer. We have had a plumber and two different irrigation companies look at it and try to replace parts. This is the latest version.
Everyone has told us that this may continue to happen because our water pressure is too low. We’re waiting for an appointment with the water company, but the irrigation company says that if the water pressure can’t be increased, our only solution is to cut out the bypass.
Is that truly the only way? Would we even pass a home inspection upon selling if we did that?
Hi. I have an iHunter X2 with a WAND module inserted , but many transmission errors on 2.4 Ghz band (24% packets loss due interference) even if the signal from AP is good (around -67 db). Due to this, the irrigation system stays offline. I've done a test with a 2.4 GHz hotspot near iHunter X2, then everything is ok.
Is there any possibility to attach an external wifi antenna to the Wand module in order to make the transmission more robust from the WAND module ? Thank you.
I need max range with the existing set up I have. Is there a sprinker that has the same shape/style but with more range? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B087XB4RQX?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title
Hi all,
We have an inground sprinkler system that we have not used in 2 years because the pool guy, when installing our new pool, cut the main line from the tap. I have attached where he cut and our existing valve control about 15 feet away. considering where the top is, and where this was hooked up, is it safe to assume that if I dig down the dirt I'll hit the main supply line and just be able to reconnect it eventually?
As you can see in the photos, this diaphragm is far from ideal. Each valve was set with its own small box before and was/is incredibly difficult to work with because they are so small.
I ideally would like a single larger box, but I cannot find one anywhere near the correct dimensions. My next thought was to build one out of some plywood and heavily waterproof it. Perhaps with epoxy or something. I’m sure it will eventually rot but I’m not sure what other options I really have without ripping it all out and making a new diaphragm.
My guess is that’s going to be the advice I get here but I wanted to check to see if there were any better ideas?
It's the only thing that's working for my rain Bird sprinkler head. I couldn't reconnect the head to the riser but this did connect. However , I need to cut it down. Appreciate any help or suggestions.
