r/GamecubeHacks

Designed a modular 3d printable GameCube, no disk drive, uses the original controller ports, fan, and motherboard. It’s compatible with the original proprietary power connector or usb-c, same with proprietary analogue video out or HDMI, I built a mount for buck-down power conversion for high-power mods like the laserbear blue retro internal bluetooth controller pcb (which would need to be adapted to work properly, but confirmed working.)

These can utilize a GC Loader, Flippydrive, Picoloader, Picoboot, and basically any ODE or gamecube motherboard modchip out there. Controller port light mods are also possible and I believe I left an stl file included for it.

At this point I spent roughly 2 years of my random off-time to build something that arguably didn’t need to exist but here we are; I’m just going to dump everything I made file-wise to here, thingiverse and maybe youtube eventually.

This project isn’t for everybody, primarily focused for those who like to tinker and built crazy stuff just because. For the love of modding; this is my thank you to the community that builds together.

Started experimenting with something a little different on this GameCube shell.

The goal wasn’t to paint it solid red — I wanted something closer to an anodized or candy-coated metal look while still keeping the original OEM texture and proportions intact.

This shell actually started life as a standard silver GameCube.
Instead of burying the metallic underneath with opaque paint, I used a translucent red headlight tint over the original silver base, followed by clear coat layers to build depth while still allowing the metallic to shine through underneath.

The result changes quite a bit depending on lighting and viewing angle. In some light it almost looks powder coated or anodized rather than painted plastic.

Still early stages on this one, but the current plan is:

• PicoBoot
• USB-C power conversion
• HDMI output
• Subtle internal lighting
• Black controller panel + matching accents
• Matching controller build

Pretty happy with how the finish came out honestly — especially considering this started as an experiment after a few failed dye attempts 😄

Found a game store near me that had some retro stuff. Went to get a few things for my Wii. Got this controller and it feels pretty good in the hand with no real noticeable delay with it being wireless 2.4ghz.

The C stick does have a drift (when i let go of the input it slowly inputs to the right). Maybe I can look into fixing it not sure. Seems ok though other than that.

I know most people in here do not like 3rd party controllers. Im not a massive fan either but I wanted to play gamecube games with a different input besides the wii remote and nunchuck (usbloader gx and nintendont allow you to use the wii remote and nunchuck on gc games).

Something different I’ve been working on.

I tried to mod my GameCube and I think I did a pretty decent soldering job (I kinda suck at soldering) but the GameCube doesn’t work when I plug it into my tv and turn it on. When I hold Boot Select before I turn on the GameCube it powers on normally but when I let the pico power on with the GameCube and leave the GC2SD it black screens. What did i do wrong.

Hi All,

I've done some googling and cannot find out why I cant get my new to me Gamecube, sold to me as a Swiss hacked console to boot.

I've formatted my SD to Fat32 and put the boot iso on the Sd but I cant seem to get past this black screen showing USB gecko..

Did I get half scammed? I cant play my disc in it either but I was expecting that.

Have I got everything to get this Gamecube going on roms? (See pics).

I'm very new to this so I might come off as a dummy but I've modded a few consoles just this i cant figure out. I know you can.

Thanks.

I'm trying to setup picoboot on a DOL-101 and struggling.

I've installed the pico, and on boot it's trying, but I'm just getting no signal. Holding boot sel allows the GC to boot as normal.

At first I thought it was the fact I had wired in JST connectors, so I removed them and went with even cut wires. They're all under 5 inches, as the guide recommends (though I watched Tito of Macho Nacho do this with cables way longer than that...). They're 28 gauge wire. I've included pictures of my welds. I'm no Luis Rossman, but I think they look fine. Anyone know of something I'm not trying or thinking of?

Oh, and I did the 5v rail with the diode. It's wrapped in heat shrink so I don't short it on anything.

Finished up another Signature Series GameCube build today and this one might genuinely be one of my favourites so far.

The idea behind this build was to create something that felt less like a “modded retro console” and more like a modern boutique hardware redesign while still preserving the original GameCube identity.

Specs on this one:

• Japanese import GameCube
• PicoBoot installed
• USB-C power conversion
• SD2SP2 support
• Region free
• Exhaust and controller port lighting
• Full white respray
• Black controller panel for contrast
• Matching controller build with black buttons + black paracord

The interesting part is the lighting setup — the exhausts and controller ports are tied into programmable LEDs, so the whole mood of the console changes depending on what colours you run.

I kept the shell itself neutral white intentionally so the lighting becomes part of the atmosphere rather than the entire identity of the build.

Feels somewhere between retro Nintendo hardware and a futuristic early-2000s concept console 😄

I have a fully working pal Gamecube and I tried to use a Japanese gameboy player with it but it keeps giving me this error message. The sound is also horrible for some reason.

For context: I'm trying to boot to Swiss with the save exploit methoid so that I can launch Gameboy interface. I'm using Wind Waker as the disc and i have a memory card which has the exploited save file and the swiss boot file. I also have the SD2SP2 which has the gameboy interface.

When I take the console off of the gameboy player, it boots to Swiss normally and the sound is back to normal.

I thought the connectors were just dirty, so i cleaned them both but it didn't work.

If I had to guess, the problem is probably with the regions. I heard that the gameboy player start-up disc is region-locked, but device itself isn't. And since I'm not using the start-up disc, what's the problem here then?
Thanks in advance.

The image is a bit blurry so here's the full message:
Failed assertion: DynamicLink.cpp:613
mModule->info.sectionInfoOffset < 0x80000000

I picked up a modded GameCube and noticed it has both a CubeODE and an SD2SP2 installed. I thought they kind of did similar things, so I’m confused why someone would install both. Is there a specific reason or advantage to having both mods in the same system?

I'm doing a new picoboot mod on a GameCube today. I have done one that was successful already. This one is giving me more trouble than the other though. I have reflowed all of my solder joints at least one additional time, for some of the joints it was more than one. I think they all look good.

The symptoms are that the GC powers on but never outputs any video. If I plug the pico into the computer it is still working fine and I can upload the UF2 to it without issues. When I power the GC on the pico lights up green, but nothing ever shows on the screen. If I de-solder the power to the pico, the GC boots fine to the GC menu, so while I would love the solder connections on the chip on the board to look a little cleaner I am very sure there is no bridging going on.

My wires are possibly a little long (4 - 4.5 inches?), but I believe the no video output is not a symptom of long wiring. Is that correct?

Thanks everyone! @Shartyshartfast correctly pointed out that two of my wires were in the wrong spot. I swapped them around and now they work perfectly.

How is it that swiss is able to just load to where you left off? Just trying to understand the system and how things are configured.

Thanks in advance!