r/FocusST

i drive like a grandpa

Looking to get a wing that isn't OEM and found this first one scrolling FB. What is the name of this wing and who sells it?

The 2nd wing is the one I really want but I can't seem to find who sells it. Someone said BYC, checked their website and they don't seem to be selling any wings nor mounts at the moment.

Found em for 400$ which is crazy. Idk what else you can find this nice at that price point

18x8.5 +40 fits perfect

And one of my oem wheels was cracked and I didnt even know so thats a bonus to replace that

I have a Ford Focus 3 with 1.6 TDCi (115 hp), idon’t have any acceleration issues; the engine is still smooth. The car can reach 200 km/h even after 220,000 km.

The problem I’m experiencing is that sometimes the idle rises to 900 rpm instead of 780–800, even when the engine is warm. I’m not sure if I’m on the right track, but I’d like to test the MAF sensor.

Does anyone know how to test a Mass Air Flow sensor on a 1.6 TDCi engine? I tried unplugging the cable while the car was idling, but nothing happened.

I was taking a peak around the engine bay making sure everything is good before I drive across the states in the ST and noticed this little guy swinging around. It comes off the bottom of the battery housing box.

so here’s a fun one for y’all. Had low coolant the other day. topped it off. Now I come back (it’s been 3 days) and the coolant looks low again and a decent size puddle lives on my driveway now. Drag myself under the car and find it dripping from this drain port on the bell housing. I can’t see anywhere else the coolant may be coming from and I can’t find anywhere where coolant may be getting in. I’ve checked the whole perimeter of the mating surface between the engine and trans, paying special attention to the water block just above the bell housing. Nothing, not a drop. Does anyone have any clue where this may be coming from? For reference I replaced the head and almost all gaskets related to that along with fresh coolant in December. I didn’t replace the gasket on the water block because it looked in good shape and I haven’t had any issues with it.

Wondering if anyone else has had an issue like this. Also curious if there are even any coolant likes in the bell housing area. Much thanks.

💯

I could be wrong but it doesnt look like any of the other replacements ive seen. First time replacing the purge valve.

it is FUCKING unnecessary to tighten oil filters WITH THE STRENGTH OF ZUES… hand tight please.

They still had quite a bit of meat on them, but it’s a good thing I checked them because the last guy put them on inside-out! As in, the outside pad was installed on the inside and vice-versa. The 2 little bumps on what’s supposed to be the outside caliper had dug into the cylinder and damaged the surface, and the pad was worn to about 3/4 on the bottom and less than 1/2 on the top. If I’d used these until they were much lower by checking the pad thickness from the bottom I’d have torn up my rotors.

Anyway, apparently the rears are a total bitch, and they kind of are, but as with most things, what took an hour to figure out on one side took me 10-15 minutes on the other side. Here what I learned:

* Be gentle getting the clip out from the front, I think I bent mine a bit the first try. It goes back in but it doesn’t sit quite the same. Oh well.

* You need to disconnect the top of the sway bar end link in order to access the lower slide pin. If you use an extension there’s a spot just below the caliper you can sneak it through so you can whack the nut off with an impact. Then put a jack on the rotor and compress the strut so you can get to the slide pin.

* If you don’t have a power tool that can get behind the slide pins, they’re easy enough to get out with hand tools. I then took some curved needle nose pliers and pushed them out far enough that I could get some vice grips onto them and pull them the rest of the way out.

* Remember to take your parking brake off once you have the wheels off… and put it back on before putting the wheels back on… you’ll have to crank it up and down a few times before it grabs.

* To compress the cylinder, there’s an expensive-ass tool for this, but I used a pair of 4” oil filter pliers from O’Reilly’s. You can sneak a jaw through the hole on the calipers, put the other jaw on the far side of the caliper and it’ll kinda just stay there… see the picture to see what I’m talking about. You can then get a pair of vice grips onto the very top edge of the cylinder, being careful not to grab the boot, and twist it clockwise while squeezing the pliers with your other hand and it’ll compress. It’s a bit awkward but only took like 2 minutes once I got in the groove.

* The pad with the spring goes on the inside! I honestly don’t even know how the last guy got the caliper on with them inside-out, the bumps on the pads make it pretty much impossible.

Knowing all of this, I wouldn’t dread doing them again. It’s really not that bad.