r/FixMyPrint

Hey guys.

Since yesterday I'm trying to calibrate the proper pressure advance for an Anycubic Black PLA, for some reason the tower is giving me bad results, I know you're supposed to get the better result and measure it to calculate the PA value, well I can't get any height because the overall result is awful, I'm worrying about it because something might be wrong and it can affect my printing results, but everything I tested didn't work.

Calibration test setup:

* start pa: 0

* end pa: 0.1

* pa step: 0.002

Filament settings:

* hotend temperature: 210 Celsius

* bed: 60 celsius

* max volumetric speed: 22 mm³/s

I'm attaching a video here, I hope someone could give me some advice.

I have an ender 3v2 and an enclosure the print comes out great until I never to the bridges and it doesn’t print

240 hotend

100 bed

20 infill

Fan off

not sure other settings

Cura slicer

Ender 3 v2

Stock print speed

Not sure on retraction or extrusion speeds

Using a Creality K2 Plus. Any time I make something squared off, the edges are jagged and not as tight as the rest of the print. What's going on?

• Printer Model - Creality K2 Plus
• Slicer used - Creality Print
• Filament material and brand - Sunlu PLA
• Nozzle and bed temperature - 220/50
• Print Speed - 200mm/s for outer wall, 300mm/s for inner wall, 50% for small perimeters
• Retraction settings - 0.8mm length, 40mm/s

P1S, Fiberon PA6-CF20, Orca.

Outer wall speed 30mm/s.

Chamber at 55°C, nozzle 300°C, bed 50°C.

Previous print with this exact spool was flawless.

Dried multiple times in my AMS-HT at 85C, including right now during this print.

The banding is getting worse as the bed gets lower. Notice, though, it doesn’t appear on the surface immediately below the picatinny, and it’s also nearly non-existent on the left sides of the supports - but only for the first half of the print.

This print is still going. I’ve tried both Sport and Silent modes, as well as lowering the temp to 280° in 5° increments. There’s no warping anywhere, and the plate hasn’t lifted either. Notice the change in sheen in images 1 and 2 - odd as it is, that actually doesn’t correspond to any of my aforementioned speed/temp changes. I haven’t a clue why it suddenly became shinier there.

So with it becoming worse as the print height increases, of course I think something lead screw-related. My bed has crushed a print against the toolhead once after a power failure, but that was 6 months ago now, and this issue is only just showing up right now during this print. The spacing between the bands initially had me thinking lead screw as well, maybe a portion of each rotation was off, but as you can see in pictures 2 and 3 the spacing has suddenly tightened up a lot. Given the fact that the left-facing surfaces generally look better, I’m leaning toward something with the horizontal axes…I guess?

I’ll do the standard maintenance things once this print finishes, but, anyone have a clue what’s actually going on here?

It is 275mm tall. Top is 90mm, the bottom is 370mm at the biggest parts. It was printed upside down. This is printed on a Kobra 3 max (420x420x500). Is it a flow ratio, cooling, speed? What should I tweak? Do I need to run some of the calibration tools? It needs to be printed out of tpu because it will be spun like a staff. I usually use sainsmart tpu as my tpu of choice. I printed a smaller version out of sainsmart tpu on my Kobra 2 plus and it printed beautifully.

Settings: the outside lamp is 1.6mm wide. I am using a .8mm hardened nozzle. .4mm layer height. Cooling is set to defaults. Max fan is at 50%. It prints at 12mm3/m. Which was the default in anycubic slicer, so I left it. Print temp is 240 (default setting for you and a brass nozzle). 20 second max time per layer. I increased the flow ratio from 1 to 1.1.

I haven't printed much with PETG but I have printed a few prints before and they seemed to be fine. However, this print the infill always is messed up and by accumulating it messes up the top surface. Any suggestions?

• Creality Ender 3v3 CoreXZ
• Infill speed 120 mm/s
• volumetric speed 18 mm/s
• temp 245
• ESUN PETG
• 4 walls
• 10% infill gyroid

These are not my pictures!

https://makerworld.com/models/1857089

I hope this is the right sub. Could you help me before I mess my prints up? I’m happy to do any tests recommended but I have no idea how to:( Teach me, wise ones.

I want to print 20+ of these on my Bambu P1S, what print settings should I change to get lovely glassy output with Generic PETG Clear Transparent filament with a 0.6 nozzle? Filament info in last pic.

I found @HD_Pinters comment and photo (2nd&3rd pic) and they posted the settings they used(pics 4-6). I was just going to use their settings but then thought my 0.6 nozzle might be a better choice.

Should I use the settings above and just change it to a 0.6 nozzle or does the nozzle size change necessitate other optimization?

Please help! Thank you!!!

Edited some typos

Editing to add that I will be printing on a Bambu Dual-Texture Pei plate on the textured side.

I’m losing my mind with this printer

Sometimes it prints perfectly, sometimes I get this. Three times in a row. Same file, same settings, same result.

I’ve done everything by the book:

•	Firmware fully updated

•	Bed cleaned with isopropyl every time

•	Bed levelling done every print

•	Hotbed looks fine visually

My setup:

Anycubic Kobra S1 | Stock hotend & nozzle | Bed 55° | Nozzle 215° | PLA from 3DJake

Anyone seen this before? What am I missing?​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​

Brand new to 3d printing, brand new Bambu Lab P2S. Recently printer riser for glass/AMS.

Is this just something that is within standard deviation that I have to really dial in manual settings for as I learn? Or is something going wrong?

- Have done the calibration when setting up machine. Haven’t moved since

- used the PETG riser at https://makerworld.com/models/1914558?appSharePlatform=copy

- BambuLab P2S

- Bambulab .4 nozzle

- Bambu Studios Slicer

- Bambulab PETG Basic Filament

- Standard Print speed

- Nozzle temp initial layer 245 other layers 250 (I think. Based on filament settings in BambuLab)

- bed temp 70 (I think. Based on filament settings in BambuLab)

- Retraction settings posted pic

I am printing with

• Printer Model - Creality Hi combo
• Slicer - Creality Slicer
• Filament - ALMA PETG
• Nozzle Temp 240C and bed temperature 80 C
• Print Speed 50 mm/s
• Retraction settings 1

I swore I have seen this before but couldn't find exactly what I was looking for. What could be causing this fuzzy skin on my print. I have it oriented inline with the tilt function of my tilting vat. My next step was to replace the ACF.

Saturn 4 Ultra 12K

Phrozen RPG Beige

Print settings in second photo

I tried printing a design that needs a smooth top surface but I can’t get it to come out smooth. I get this weird pattern and I cant find a solution.

i print with a 0.4 mm nozzle at 220° and 0.2 mm layer height using poly terra pla ( I dried in a filament dryer ) and I have ironing on. I print using the bbl a1 mini and use Bambu studio for slicing.

thanks in advance!

Rotating the gcode makes no difference. Problem is on the same side of the bed.

I’ve also done a bed leveling calibration, and a Z offset calibration.

I’ve also run the same print at several different temperatures across the range of the material.

I’ve tried increasing and decreasing cooling as well.

Tried with chamber door open, and chamber door closed.

First layer always looks great.

Tried two different PLA brands.

I’ve tried drying the filament.

Not sure what to try next.

Setup details:

Filaments tried: Inland PLA, Hatchbox PLA

Prusa MINI+

0.25 mm nozzle

0.05 mm layer height

I fully realize I’m pushing this to the absolute limit of resolution. However, I’m doing some tests to see how detailed I can get.

Any help much appreciated.

lk5 pro

.15 layer height

234c noz 70c bed

dried overture petg

default retraction settings

24mms speed

looks like my main model is fine so far

I have tried everything from PID tunes and belt tension to new Z-screws and grease. I even tried resetting all my settings. I made sure nothing is loose, adjusted the acceleration speeds, calibrated E-steps and Z-steps, and dried my filament. ChatGPT is getting sick of me, so guys, please help! I'm using an ender 3 V3 SE

Notice how inconsistent the lines are across parts 🫢

I'm using orca also