Just got my 12v vr6 head back from the machine shop to get resurfaced and some head work done. Whats up with all these little hair like marks? I've taken my block here before and was happy with the work and multiple people I've talked to has had a great experience from them. It just doesn't look right to me
This is my first attempt at making a cross hatch pattern using a flex hone (i know many people probably don't like these). Does this look ok and would it work for an old Mighty Mite outboard? It initially caught in the top of the piston when I tried to insert it and I'm worried that it might have damaged the cylinder. It doesn't seem like it at first glance
these are new heads, CNC ported. send them back? or break out the die grinder. all of the intakes are like this, exhausts look better.
Was running my freshly re-gasketed Ford FE motor and found milky oil. Did some research and found it could be the intake gasket. So I pulled the intake and only the driver side head/intake ports had water on them absolute nothing on passenger side. Found the circled cut on the rear of the intake gasket and am betting this is what did it. However there is an identical “cut” on the same port for the passenger side, but appears it didn’t make it all the way through. On the head there’s a port there but on the intake manifold there isn’t one so the gasket is just on solid steel. Just don’t want to drop money and time into new intake gaskets only to find out it was the head gasket. How can I tell or test it to make sure. TIA.
need help with 2 vacuum lines and how to jump egr plug to read normal or delete it. please help.
No extreme lifter tick when running. I pulled the valve cover and could feel it through the rocker arm, I just put in new pushrods and reinstalled the rockers after getting the head rebuilt. I followed the proper procedure for rocker arm re-installation as far as I’m aware
07 gmc Yukon 5.3. looking to bypass all GM stuff - long story short replaced many many many parts and checked wiring and voltage for problems with stabilitrak - code for pedal sensor 2. traces back to low voltage from the pin at the ecm. this is the 2nd ecm.
looking to get the Holley terminator x max kit to solve this issue once and for all. engine was just replaced as well, so money wise will be worth it, for a like new vehicle.
any experience and is this the solution I am looking for?
Hello! first I apologize if exhaust questions are against the rules since not technically part of the engine.
I have a 65 mustang with (what I think is) a 289. car has regular manifolds and mufflers right now, but looking at going to some headers and sportier exhaust. I dont want to be the town nuisance when in residential areas but want to open it up in the country. Does anyone here have recommendations/advice on electric exhaust cutouts?
Thank you in advance for the help!
apologize if this question has been before, but I have been unable to find a clear answer through my research.
I am currently rebuilding my 302 SBF and I have a pair of new Edelbrock 5023 heads. The heads are spec'd for a flat tappet camshaft.
I want to switch to a Comp Cams roller cam (part number 35-510-8). I understand that this cam would require a valve spring upgrade on the
heads since the current springs are only for flat tappet
Does anyone know which springs I should use to safely run this roller cam?
The car is a weekend cruiser, and I am willing to use a rev limiter to protect the setup if necessary.
And yes, I understand it might be just easier to swap the heads for AFRs or TrickFlows, but heads were purchased years ago and don't want to go through all the hassle of selling them.
Thanks for any information
Hi all, this is a 1980 LM1 350 from my Z28 Camaro that has been sitting in a barn/garage for 16 years. I haven’t turned the engine over yet. What can I put in here if anything to loosen things up and avoid damaging the rings or walls? Will this ever run again? Pics are in order of 13572468. Thanks
Hey guys, new here, but not to engines.
Built a 1.8t with 400hp. Runs great, built and tuned well.
Recently due to gas prices I put in lower octane and noticed it not going over 260 km/h (Germany).
Slowed it down a bit drove home. Couple days later it hat this issue where the spark would cut sporadically.
Now I took out the spark plugs and found one in pretty bad shape. All the other ones look great. Also the corresponding cylinder has scoring.
Is the scoring dramatic or could I still run it like this, after finding the reason for the damaged spark plug?
Two last images are healthy spark plug and cylinder wall.