r/ElectronicsRepair

I don’t even know what’s wrong with this wire, I am concerned about it being broken/unsafe for charging.

Not sure if this is the best subreddit for this, but any idea how to fix this Woody doll? I’ve replaced the batteries; the old ones weren’t corroded. I’ve tried using it with the switch in all of the positions and the pull-string seems to be functioning as it should. It’s a hand-me-down but gently used.

I'm fixing an old Xbox 360 and need some help deciding if it's worth trying to clean this motor+new grease or trying to find a new one

Originally I was told the issue was a motor, so after taking it apart, the only one I found was an old gross motor for the laser in the disk tray

It shows 032ACP D0Y16C2D on the back, I'd also appreciate if anyone knew good grease to see if the motor itself still works

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I had to clean my mixer because milkshake leaked into the interior. And therefor i disconnected the power cable and the motor cable from what appears to me as a pcb filter board.

But how do i connect them because so c01 c02 c03 and c04 are the names of the pins and what cable goes to which pin?

The power cable has blue and red. And the motor cables have brown and dark blue.

Thanks in advance.

Hello, everyone, I have heard great things about this community. I would like to repair this lamp remote. It’s not a fancy or expensive lamp but that’s why I think it’s a good first project. I just don‘t have any knowledge.

I would like someone to tell me whether or not this is fixable and how I should proceed. My first thought was to just put some solder on the broken spot and hope for the best.
Thanks in advance!

There used to be a surface mounted capacitor here. The retention pin for the CPU's heatsink broke, and when moved, decapitated the capacitor. In the process it appears to have pulled/tore some of the copper. I know what capacitor I need, and I think I have spares. The question though is the damage to the PCB too severe to even try? Is the entire light green area one plane? or were there multiple layers/traces that are now cut? This is a switch motherboard, and this is in the area of the main processor (outer edge). I would assume a capacitor of that size would be filtering the main voltage line or some such thing. Any thoughts or ideas?

Anyone knows what is this called? How can I replace this? It's not the cap, is it the thumbstick itself?

Product Model: GameSir X2 USB-C ANDROID

I clean the vital areas and still don't turn on. I suspect that is that pin, looks fried. is something I can do? don't want to throw it away at part of my childhood

Hi

I bought a sealed virtual mickey vpet. Same one i had as a child. But you guessed it battery leakage. I cleaned it with alcohol and went from a non responsive vpet to a almost perfect vpet. Everything works only the screen seemes washed out. I tried cleaning some more and ading paper for extra pressure. No luck. Any more tips ?

Bonjour à tous,

Je suis en train de réparer un ventilateur et j’ai besoin d’ouvrir le moteur pour vérifier le fusible thermique.

Le problème : je dois retirer 4 vis à l’arrière du moteur métallique.

J’ai réussi à enlever celle en haut à gauche (visible sur la photo posée sur la table avec la rondelle noire et la pièce grise qui étaient avec elle), mais les 3 autres sont bloquées.

J’ai deux tournevis :

• un grand cruciforme qui glisse/rippe dans la vis,

• un plus petit qui avait réussi à retirer la première vis mais qui maintenant glisse aussi beaucoup et me fait mal à la main.

Je tourne bien dans le sens anti-horaire pour dévisser.

Mes questions :

• Est-ce que mes tournevis sont adaptés ?

• Dois-je acheter un meilleur tournevis ? Si oui, lequel serait plus adapté à ces vis là ?

• Avez-vous une technique pour débloquer ce genre de vis sans abîmer la tête ?

Merci !

Does anyone know which way round is centre positive polarity or centre negative please…? :)

There is just an arrow that points to the middle of the + and -

I’m in the UK in case that affects things.

Thanks!

I wanted to try getting an hot air station to test out soldering smds
i've been thinking of either buying a cheap station like those quick clones or making one.
i don't know though what makes a hot air good and what makes it bad thats why i am confused on how would i pick one.
cuz a technician near me said that the diy ones are much stabler than those ones you get that is those cheap clones?

my requirements are that the hot air is decently stable on their temperatures and doesnt cost alot. so ideally diy. but a cheap prebuilt one is also welcome
budget is about under 40$ usd converted from my country.

any help or resources for me to read would be appreciated.

edit= Here are my options:
so i got yihua 858d(26$) [new]
a diy prebuilt 858d (17$) [new]
mypovos 8582d (the 2 in 1) (20$) [used]
Reaim 8586D (also 2 in 1) (22$) [used]

i have a basic like 3$ iron w temp gauge and looks like this :
https://circuit.rocks/products/soldering-iron-lead-free-30w-110-240vac
so probably the 2 in 1 would be better right?

I am attempting to fix this circuit board as it's part of a ceiling light that i can't find again so hoping to fix it in order to keep using it.

I have a rudimentary understanding of electronics and will appreciate some support in terms of replacement, alternatives or any other way I can approach this.

Location uk

Using a multimeter I noticed that maybe something that looks like a capacitor might be damaged.

Upon further research it looks like it might be a choke conductor coil

However, this component doesn't have any writing so how do I establish a replacement?

I might have to change the capacitors too and here's what I have

2x 400v 6.8uf capacitors

1x 200v 10uf capacitor

How can I establish the type of choke conductor coil needed as this one doesn't have any specs on it and I can only go by size.

I'm confused about the 200v capacitor, if uk applies 230v 240v, is this component correct, not sure I understand it?

What's the best place to buy this kind of stuff, I am looking at ebay and amazon which is expensive considering this small components.

The only markings on this DC motor from a Panasonic RQ-SW10 are the following:

MHXN-3A3LDBT

19SEPT96Z11

I can't find anything online but given that it's getting about 1.6vdc when in play mode, I would guess it's a 3v motor.

I cracked open the motor and cleaned the brushes but accidentally scored the magnet. I suspect this will make the motor unbalanced and renders that one FUBAR. (Lemme know if that assumption is wrong please!)

I salvaged another motor of the same form factor that also doesn't have any useful markings, threw it in, and it runs way slower. I got a donor/comparison unit working and the difference definitely seems to be the motor so I suspect the donor motor is 6v or 9v.

Here's what I was thinking. The main difference between the motors is the winding, correct? Could I swap the center part out, or would the brushes/magnet differ enough to make it not feasible?

Mostly wanted to double-check before I potentially brick another motor.

Hi guys. I am very new to the electrical repair scene and need advice from someone more experienced.

I am currently repairing a Yamaha Electone B-75 electric organ. It is a very old organ from 1973 so the components are obviously prone to failing. It was working when i bought it, but as soon as i got it home and plugged it in a capacitor on the power supply poped and blew a fuse in the process. Because of this i am unable to test the rest of the circuits until the fuse gets delivered.

While visualy inspecting the rest of the circuits i noticed this localized patch of corrosion near one end of this IC and on two adjacent diodes. My instinct was that an electrolytic capacitor had blown, but the capacitors in the area (shown in picture 3, 4, and 5)show no signs of leaking and have no corrosion on their leads. This board is one sided, there aren't any components beneath it, and it is shielded from the restof the boards but a metalized paper shield so it can't be caused buy a component elsewhere. I have provided the IC diagram incase that helps.

I hope it isn't caused by a failed IC because these chips are really hard to find now days.

If anyone with more experience could help me out it would be greatly appreciated!

Edit: additional details.

Hey everybody,

Today I was about to switch out the battery on my old pair of Bose Bluetooth headphones. I soldered the new battery, turned them on and all of a sudden this noise came out of them like 2 seconds after I turned them on. Now it comes on every time I turn them on.

I figured out that the noise stops completely when I touch that little part you see in the video with my plastic spudger. Can anyone explain what is happening and hopefully offer a solution to this problem?

Thank you guys in advance