r/E34

Who’s else crazy enough to buy a supposedly blown up e34 with 500k miles besides my dad and I 😂 Got the car home got her started she was missing bad on cylinder 2 compression test came back at 0psi in that cylinder took the head off noticed a broken chain guide and two slightly bent intake valves. Sent the head to the machine shop for new valves while me and my dad did all new guides and chains. Threw it all back together and she’s running like a champ. He’s put 100 miles on it already no issues and put on some Gold face RC090s. Who said BMWs are unreliable 💪
1995 525i with a 5 speed manual

Underrated vs overrated mods for e34, either touring or sedan
(Pic of my wagon for attention)

I really love my e34, but i sometimes have problems with my central lock. Sometimes it just doesnt work, im looking for the Problem but its taking longer, my main Problem is, that when my Car doesnt unlock, it wont start, i can still get in with the Key, but it just wont start, everything works but the windows and the car cranks like normal but it wont start unless the central lock system unlocks, then the Windows work like normal aswell. Its a 518i from 1993 meaning it doesnt have a key fob. Anybody got experience on how to deactivate it?

How do i get the kidneys out?

Found a 525i as well as a 530i, interior on the 530i is trashed but the body and frame look better whereas the 525i is the opposite, better interior but worse frame.

Just looking for advice or tips for if I should buy these or not. I was thinking of offering the owner $1500 for both.

I don’t have any pics of the 530i right now sorry.

It appears I’m having some minor cooling issues at idle. She’s always at perfect operating temp on the highway but when I encounter traffic or light driving with more frequent stops, she seems to heat about 1/4 of the way to the 3rd mark before red.

Thinking it might be either the fan clutch not pulling in enough air during lower speeds or the auxiliary fan not doing its job.

Enlighten me oh wise ones!

Been hearing this ticking noise was wondering if yall know what it might be 1989 bmw 525i m20

Hello everyone, I’m in the lookout for bmw style 26 wheels for e34 very rare set of wheels does anyone know someone who sells them or where I can find them please 🙏

Hey, just wanna know what y'all think of my brother's E34, right now it's at the mechanic, it's gonna be having a new front bumper and will have yellow fog lights, also at the back it's gonna be like the last photo (screenshot from a Instagram video, not my brother's car)

Okay so I'm gonna try my best to keep this short but it's a lot.

Basically I've been trying to track down a long crank when warm issue for a few months now on my 95' 525i.

A couple of months back, my starter died on me so I knew that I had to pull out the intake to get it replaced.

With that I decided to change every sensor under the intake:

-Camshaft position sensor
-Crankshaft position sensor
-Coolant temp sensor (DME)
-Coolant temp sensor (Gauge)

Upon removing the old crusty and caked on coolant temp sensor for the gauge, I realized the thread on the head was cooked. So I could not get it tight enough.

For reference this is my first time getting my hands on a car myself so I'm learning as I go and don't have too much experience or tools.

1st intake pull

I put everything back together hoping the sensor would hold and alas it was dribbling, and also not giving the cluster correct temps. While moving with the engine warm, the needle hugs the cold at all times but as soon as I stopped the car it slowly started going back up to temp. I figured this was just the leak - if water was coming out, air was also getting in, lowering the temp while the car is moving.

2nd intake pull

Knowing what I had in store, I decided to just go ahead and change the whole cooling system as well as the heater valves as I had no hot air inside. Changed out all the hoses there as well and did a proper heater core flush. Took longer but the whole thing is now refreshed. Back to the sensor - I used teflon tape around the sensor's thread and applied a conservative amount of RTV on the thread + around the nut.

It worked! Drove off, no leak, but still no accurate temps. Same exact behaviour as the 1st pull. Drove it for a day (the best that engine has ever sounded since I've had it). That same day, I took the thermostat out to see if it was maybe stuck open, causing the erratic readings (the new thermostat I had just installed a few weeks back) but it was working as intended. Fill it up again with water, go for a drive, come back, and the sensor is pissing water. I didn't use enough RTV.

3rd intake pull

Prepare myself to do my first ever helicoil repair on a head of a rare motor in my area. Not the best drills but I got it to work. Install the helicoil WITHOUT thread sealant, as I looked online and saw that you're not supposed to use it (foreshadowing). Fresh helicoil, fresh washers for both sensor and I still applied teflon tape for safety. I also got a different sensor as the one I got from HELLA, was apparently rated for up to 80C. My theory is that the engine would heat up past 80C quickly, causing the sensor to give the DME an invalid reading, thus making the needle go limp while driving, then start creeping back up after the car had been sitting (as it cooled down below 80C). I got a new one from FEBI rated for up to 130C. I put everything back together and start filling it up with water again. Not even halfway into this I check the sensor and it's dripping water (attached video).

4th intake pull

I again took everything apart, and took the helicoil out. I figure I need to use some thread sealant on the helicoil itself. I will also be using teflon tape and RTV.

Is there anything else I can do differently to prevent me having to take this all out a 5th time? It's utterly frustrating the fact that this is only happening because I was doing the right thing and replacing an old 31-year old sensor that was not leaking simply due to corrosion.

I'm now waiting on a CAMP PTFE sealant off of Amazon (I can't get Loctite 620 here) so if anyone has been through a similar problem, how did you fix it?

I have a set of keys for my car that work (seen on the left) but my primary set is trashed (seen on the right).

I would like to get more which I can program myself and have them cut. I like the idea of having the one with the little red light so I know when they are dead.

Does anyone know where I can find them? I believe these are retro fitted keys from a later BMW that were made to work with my car.

I ordered some chinesium ones on eBay and they turned out to be total junk.

Just had the best time removing everything to replace the heater core only to find out rock auto doesn’t carry the correct core. Now the correct Part number is 64118351171 and trying to look for it online it’s upwards of $400???!!!? I found one on eBay for $70 but it’s not genuine BMW. Do I say screw it and get the eBay version?

If anyone has a new stock heater core they’re trying to get rid of let me know

I’m about to flush the cooling system on my m60 530i. Are these the engine block drains? BTW what are these unplugged holes on the passenger side?

Before you ask - battery is disconnected.