r/DodgeRam

Image 1 — 1981 Dodge Truck - am I on the right track to get it running?
Image 2 — 1981 Dodge Truck - am I on the right track to get it running?

1981 Dodge Truck - am I on the right track to get it running?

First of all - I have zero experience with car mechanics. I’m just an HR lady. But I also have the “I can do anything” mindset. That helps me and disappoints me at times.

This is the truck was my grandmas and I learned to drive in it. So, it’s very special to me. I’m at a point in life where I can put the time and money into bringing her back to life. It’s been sitting for 20 years.

Here’s where I’m at with it: (if I use the wrong lingo, please educate me)

New battery ✅ - most electrical components work. All the lights and signals work. Radio works. Needs new wiper motor.

Crank shaft turned with breaker bar and not too much torque ✅

Next on my list: (let me know if I should go in a different order)

⏭️ pull starter and replace (I thought about learning how to rebuild, not sure it’s worth it but would be cool to say I know how)

See if it tries to start if no, I’m stuck here. If yes, move on to carburetor

⏭️ replace or rebuild carburetor (again, I believe I can do anything I can put my mind to. Please talk me out of this part)

This is as far as I’ve gotten in the planning. Just need to get it started. Sure I’ll have to replace belts and stuff, but that is a moot point if I can’t get it to turn over.

TL;DR

Old truck sitting for 20 years. Want to get it running. Replaced battery so far. Replacing starter and carburetor next. Am I on the right track?

u/ButterflyNo8050 — 5 days ago
▲ 18 r/DodgeRam+4 crossposts

3rd Gen Cummins Advice

I had to look at this vehicle the other day as 240,000 miles. Just had the front and redone as well as a new transfer case has a lot of cosmetic issues but other than that seems to be driving just fine. Offered him $7500 cash and took it. Guy put in an upgraded tranny 80000 miles ago as well
Keep on getting people telling me that it’s a terrible deal and I shouldn’t pick up this truck with this much mileage in this old, obviously people that don’t know much about diesel. From what I’ve researched I think it’s a decent deal. I’ll have to get a new tailgate fix the radio the radio works, but it’s not a really bad install as well as just a bunch of other cosmetic stuff. As far as the engine goes, it looks like everything was fine. No blow by no major red flags.
Would you buy this 03 with 240,000 miles for 7500
Any advice on where to find a tailgate and do you think that as far as the peel and clearcoat goes if I just buffed it and sprayed clearcoat over it this be a decent fix I don’t really want to do a base coat

u/vedas420 — 2 days ago
▲ 138 r/DodgeRam+2 crossposts

There’s an older gentleman near me 89 years old selling this beautiful truck for $6000. Seems like a good price?

It has 304,000 miles. It’s a 99 Dodge Ram 2500 5.9 Cummins diesel. 2wd. Trans was rebuilt 50k ago. All regular maintenance always done when required. Ball joints replaced 50k ago. Fuel injector pump replaced a year ago. Body has no dents. Paint is perfect. Interior is perfect. No cracks or anything. It’s runs strong and shifts smoothly. He’s asking $6000 for it. Basically it needs nothing at the moment. I’d have to drive 4 hours away to pick it up and drive it back. It would become our family truck. I’d be towing a 21 ft boat. Sometimes going on lake trips around CA, NV, and AZ. I need reliability and have been eyeing these up for a while.

Question is, am I taking a chance with this old and high mileage truck? What can I expect to have to work on over the next 50k miles? I feel like $6000 is a good deal for a pristine one of these. What do you think?

It’s been babied and is bone stock. Never modified. Light weight towing occasionally throughout its life. The owner has known the truck its whole life. Thanks! It would be my first diesel truck and will be hauling the family and our camping gear often.

u/foobjack89 — 9 days ago

95 Dodge ram 1500 5.9L 4x4

My truck will not idle at all I've changed the air intake sensor and map sensor and changed the throttle body gasket what could be the problem

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u/Empty-Spend-6479 — 2 days ago
▲ 49 r/DodgeRam+1 crossposts

22 Laramie hemi-e torque

My 22 Laramie Hemi Etorque
Got basic bubba setup leveled RC an arms. Falken Wildpeak RT on stock 18

Would like to put 35” on will any fit stock rim?

u/huttro — 4 days ago

98 RAM 1500 318/5.2

FINAL UPDATE: I appreciate all the comments, but we changed the distributor totally to a known good one and it fired off without issue. We inspected the factory distributor and it appeared to be arcing internally somehow to the metal plate the cam sensor picks up on.

Felt the need to add an edit, I am not new to Dodge's of this era and their electrical issues, we have a Durango with the 318/5.2 that also had a load of electrical issues (mainly grounding). I'm also not new to the world of diagnosing them, but this one really has me scratching my head as all the "common" engine bay related issues are not present or are doing a real good job at not showing.

ALL GROUNDS ARE CLEAN AND INTACT, I EVEN ADDED SOME WE HAD TO ADD TO OUR DURANGO.

It also ran twice without issue previously and ran fine the day I picked it up until it didn't.

I have a 98 RAM 1500 I inherited from my dad who passed away last year. To sum it up as quick as possible unless people need more info, I've replaced basically every critical sensor with a new one except the cam position sensor in the distributor, tomorrow I am going to replace the cam position with a known good one I have to save the money as I just purchased a new PCM for it.

I've checked over and cleaned main power and ground connections, checked the grounds at the PCM and all is well.

Now the weird part is, when I picked it up a week after my dad passed, it was running fine, I went up the road to head back towards my house, stopped at the stop sign and went to take off and it shut down as if the key was turned off, wouldn't restart but cranks healthy. Had it towed home where it continued to crank but not start, sometimes it would sputter, till one day it fired up no issue after sputtering initially on the first go around. Now between those 2 tries, I did not turn the key off and simply left it in run to allow the starter a few seconds of a break.

All seemed well, I let it idle up to operating temp and gave it a little rev and on the idle down, it shut off and resumed its routine of crank no start. The other day after doing the crank sensor (the last sensor I replaced aside from cam position), it did its routine of sputtering but not starting, gave the starter a break and gave it another try, it acted as if it ran backwards, as it was backfiring through the intake but was "running" rough, it stalled, gave it another go almost immediately and it fired right up like nothing was wrong, let it idle a minute and gave it a little rev, came back down to idle, gave it a bit more of a rev and it shut down on the idle down

Since replacing the crank sensor I have been monitoring the PCM with my scanner and I noticed just as the truck stalled everything like cam/crank counts went "N/A" and my scanner had a delay when trying to re-establish connection with the PCM. I decided to order a PCM because why not at this point. Today's effort was met with N/A on those type of monitors aftrr about 30-35 secobds of just cranking through the sputtering but the PCM stayed in contact with my scanner.

I'm at a loss as everything I've read/tried turns to be idle, sensors, harnesses, grounds, etc.

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u/TraditionalSector671 — 5 days ago
▲ 4 r/DodgeRam+1 crossposts

2010 Dodge Ram CV Axle Binding

Hello everyone, I am coming here to get some advice on something. November of 2025, I was given a truck from my father. The CV Axles were completely shot so I got on rockauto, bought some new ones, and set off to a buddy’s shop to get them installed. On the driver side of the truck, the CV Axle would just NOT go in properly. Long story short, we got it in but it would only spin freely under load. We just left it like that because the boots on my old ones were honestly just GONE. Fast track to current day and I am having a binding on that side in my steering. We put it on the lift to see what was happening and he explained it as the cv axle was at its maximum angle it could be at just sitting in the air. He said he wasn’t sure why it was like that, and that everything was seated correctly. What are my next steps with this? Also, the CV axle was a slight bit thicker than the OEM one, but rockauto didn’t sell them by driver side or passenger side (at least the ones i got).

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u/thebiggertaco — 1 day ago
▲ 14 r/DodgeRam+1 crossposts

Hi guys, i own 2004 Dodge dakota V8 4.7L crew cab, I want build my truck, what should be my first mod do you thinking?

u/Agile_Ad1421 — 11 days ago

Thought You guys might appreciate this truck I just happen to park next too, an old school Rust free, Dakota Convertible, in great condition. The interior was equally as nice hard to take pictures because of the glare...

u/Ambitious_Dealer_425 — 11 days ago

Hi I have a 1990 W150 short bed. The sky facing surfaces are awful and I’d like to do something about it. The stickers in the firewall with the paint code are washed out. How can I tell if this is Colorado red and if it is whether it’s HE4/PE4/E4? The other red that year is Crimson red BM5/PM5/E5.

u/asshat_deluxe — 7 days ago

Good to finally get that out.

Ill pressure wash everything tomorrow when I wash the car and slam er' back in. Hopefully this fixes the low fuel pressure issue.

u/Justforfun61126 — 13 days ago

Problem:
Truck is overheating. The upper radiator hose stays cold even when the temp gauge shows hot/overheating. Coolant in the radiator rises to the top but does not appear to circulate.
What I’ve tested:
Used a block tester (head gasket test kit) → fluid did NOT change color (no combustion gases detected)

Coolant level is full

Watched radiator with cap off from cold start → coolant rises but no noticeable flow

Other symptoms:
Blue smoke from exhaust (noticeable at [startup / idle / acceleration])

No constant bubbling in radiator

Heater blows [hot / cold / inconsistent]

Question:
Does this point more toward a stuck thermostat or circulation issue (water pump or air pocket), or could it still be a head gasket or cracked head even with a negative block test? Also, could the blue smoke be related or is that likely a separate issue (valve seals, rings, or intake gasket on the 5.9)?

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u/untamedstar2 — 12 days ago

I have a 2000 Dodge ram 1500 with the 5.9 magnum 4x4 and when I drive for about 40 minutes to an hour, it will just randomly shut off everything and then I have to pull off I have already done the crankshaft positioning sensor and it does nothing but anything else would help. it does start back up after like 10 to 15 minutes.

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u/ryan43215 — 11 days ago

Not even half a spec of dirt in the tank. Perfect.

New pump fixed the low fuel pressure problem as I suspected it would.

Now I have to track down a misfire. No codes, but one cylinder definitely is not firing. Thankfully its not the famous lifter failure issue though.

In the morning im going to unplug coils and injectors 1 by 1 and see which hole doesn't make a difference.

I will beat this evil piece of shit one way or another 😆😆😆

u/Justforfun61126 — 12 days ago

was driving my gfs ol 12 valve and the steering column and shaft fell while driving, i could still steer and drive the truck but i stopped to look at it looks like it came loose from some brackets on the crossmember in the dash, does anyone have any ideas? I included another picture, if someone knows what’s going on let me know i’m definitely puzzled

u/Green_Operator — 13 days ago