r/AnalogCommunity

Needed some low light film, already had Fuji 400 loaded up, decided to see how far it would go. Figured I’d post some results as I couldn’t find a good reference for what it might look like. Shot at 3200 ISO, developed for 9 minutes in cs41, dslr scanned and NLP inverted. Surprised how well the colors held up in good light, unsurprising that low light performance was actually quite terrible. Enjoy my scientific sacrifice of a roll!

I’m very new to film photography, and I always see on this and other subreddits photos that are really sharp, and have good colours, but for some reason all of my photos always come out looking really odd (I am a beginner if there is some really simple answer to this I apologize)

I’m using the Pentax MX, usually with Kodak ColorPlus. Also, I scan my negatives at home with the Agfaphoto realview afs100 film scanner

Any help would be appreciated, thanks!

I got my scans yesterday and just got started editing them, when I noticed this orange streak in the first image.

I haven't seen it in any other pictures yet and only while I manually made the pictures a bit darker (because the sky happened to be a grey mess)

I am wondering if this is a light leak.

Had an absolute blast... can’t wait to see how the film turns out.

Hey r/AnalogCommunity,

I’m currently developing a new software dedicated to film negative inversion and workflow management called NegAutoLab. I've been making some solid progress with the UI and the underlying inversion algorithms, but to really dial in the color science and make it robust, I need a much wider variety of test files.

What I need: I'm looking for raw, un-inverted negative scans. Ideally:

• RAW/DNG files from DSLR/Mirrorless camera scanning setups.
• 16-bit TIFFs from flatbeds or dedicated scanners (Epson, Plustek, Nikon, etc.).
• A variety of film stocks (Kodak, Fuji, Ilford, cinematic films, expired stocks) in different lighting conditions.

What’s in it for you? My goal is to give back to this awesome community. Once the software is polished, stable, and ready for release, I will be making it available completely for free for the AnalogCommunity.

If you have a folder of scans you’d be willing to share to help refine NegAutoLab, please drop a Google Drive, Dropbox, or WeTransfer link in the comments, or feel free to shoot me a DM.

Thanks in advance for the support! Let's build something cool together.

P.S. The photos shown in the test screenshots are a mix of my own work and sample files fromhttp://experiments.filmcurl.com/

One of these is a lab scanned JPG and one is a DSLR scan I did myself. I am working on dialing in my process for scanning at home, and I want to know which of these look better. I want to meet or exceed the results I get at the lab I typically use.

Camera: Canon EOS Elan 7

Lens: Canon EF 50mm F/1.8 STM

Film: Ilford HP5 Plus 400 (box speed)

Please respond before checking which is which.

Edit:

1st is lab “enhanced scan”

2nd is my scan with Lightroom edit

Just got this roll developed, the first from a new camera, and I noticed that four pictures have this straight thin white line running through it. Looking at the negatives, I can see the line going through the film, running through the border between pictures. But its only there on about 4 pictures in the middle of the roll. Is it possible to tell what caused this? Or should I just shoot another roll and take it somewhere else.

I’ve just inherited this stunning collection of cameras. I’m just working out which, if any are in working order and if I can access the right film for them. My favourite is a mint condition Kodak Junior Six-20 from around 1940, complete with original box and instructions. It’s never been used! It still has the paper in the film compartment. I’ve been reading up on respooling a 120 film to use in these.

I’d appreciate any advice/tips!

Just wanted to know if anyone has any experience with this camera or if they enjoyed using it? Pros and cons? Looks like a sturdy German piece of glass that could be fun to experiment with. $50 on market place. Should I grab it?

Hey all, loaded a roll into my M6 the other day and the film advance started acting up. Seems to be fine just after I initially load the film in, but then once I close up the door and take a shot the advance lever becomes chunky to push forward and the film itself doesn't move, almost like it's not properly getting caught on the sprockets or something. Just started happening out of the blue with this roll and another I tried, nothing obvious that would have damaged it or anything. Any insight into what's going on here? I assume I'll just have to get it serviced.

I also found the paterson tank in the same store for $6.

I picked up this non-working body a couple of days ago to add to my collection of non-working, but cool analogue hardware. I tried to get back into film a few years ago, but the appeal is somewhat tempered by the lack of developing options in my town and I have also long offloaded my scanning hardware.

But the optics are in really good nick for a life in the tropics (its leather case probably helped there) and I kinda fell in love with it after a quick play.

So 2 days of fiddling and cleaning and adjusting, the film advance and shutter mechanism now works!

The inbuilt light meter appears pretty close to accurate, so time to put some film in and give it a spin! (my local shop only had 400, but good for an experiment)

Lately I’ve been seeing a lot of posts about choosing a first film SLR.

And very often people recommend classic “legendary” cameras like Canon AE-1, Pentax K1000, Nikon F2, etc.

Sure, they look cool and have that vintage charm. But most of them are 40–50 years old at this point. Fully manual operation combined with age-related issues and quirks can easily ruin the experience for beginners.

On the other hand, some people suggest more modern autofocus cameras like Canon EOS film cameras, Nikon F801 / Nikon F80, Minolta Dynax series, etc.

They may feel more “plastic”, but they’re much newer, more reliable, and way more predictable.

Personally, I’ve been leaning toward the latter. A relatively modern AF SLR is just so much easier to live with compared to older fully mechanical bodies. And often cheaper too.

What would you choose for a first camera?

Hi all!

I have a Minolta Freedom Action Zoom. Fresh battery installed. You can see what happens when I attempt to power it on, the lens won’t extend and it turns off. Any ideas on troubleshooting this? I’m fairly handy with repairs, just never tinkered with an old camera like this.

Thanks for any help!

Long shot trying to Repair a Canon Demi ee28 and I could use some help.

When I force the meter (by moving the needle while on auto) all shutter speeds work. Testing continuity works on the sensor by placing both leads across the marked line, and shows continuity to the body with low readings (one lead on the sensor and one anywhere within the exposed mechanism), and checking continuity in this way also moves the needle on it's own (pretty sure that means power is moving from the sensor to the exposure meter). But no matter how much light I expose to the sensor, the needle doesn't move.

Anyone have any clue what all that means? I genuinely have no idea how to read the multimeter and am doing this by feel right now. Is the sensor plate itself shot (given power accurately crosses through the meter I don't know if it's just no longer sensitive enough trip the meter or if it means there's a short in the body that means it's just loosing power.

I'd rather not open the body any further (cause I don't want to damage the leatherette) if I don't have to.

Inherited this from my MIL, assuming it’s fairly old but put brand new batteries in and followed some troubleshooting tips to get her to turn on but to no avail. Any ideas?