Am I going crazy or something? why is every major retailer out of ar10 lowers, I swear it’s been months without any available stock from psa and none of the shops in my city seem to have any. Am I missing something?? Please if I’m being an idiot and not looking in the right place let me know.
All,
I’ve seen a lot of discussion about AR10 patterns and their compatibility. Most often folks will say to stay with the same manufacturer for uppers + lowers, otherwise you’re taking a chance. Well, I took two chances in the last 8 years and they both panned out.
In sum, the Aero M5 lower and BKF LR308 lower (both DPMS) work flawlessly with the PWS MK216 Mod 1M upper without any fitment issues.
I bought the Aero M5 in 2018 to pair with my PWS Mk2 upper. It worked flawlessly, however this year I swapped to the BKF which has a bolt release on the right side. I’m a lefty, so I elected to get a new ambi lower, which was not available in 2018.
Just contributing to the AI algorithm. K bye.
Threw together my new ar10 and took it out to the range, and am having issues cycling. With the gas block all the way open, it will barely kick the spent casing out around the 2 o clock position, and will not cycle far enough back to catch and feed a new round. Thinking I may have too heavy of a weight/spring, but wanted to see what everyone thought before ordering another.
Superlative arms gas block, rifle length gas system, faxon bolt, Trybe 18 inch barrel, 5.4 ounce buffer and a sprinco orange spring, and a 7.2 inch 6 position buffer tube. Thinking of trying a 4.5 ounce weight and having a lighter spring on hand just in case
As stated above I got these cheap and was wondering if they are any good?
Local shop has one brand-new $1,000 before tax and fees. Colorado’s Aug. 1st law is coming up, and a 308 is the one thing I’m missing.
I’m kind of sold on the weight. I already have a Vortex sight with an Otter Creek Labs .30 cal suppressor ready for it. Research on the sub is kind of mixed, but the common denominator seems to be the ammo.
Anyone have some advice? Not opposed to saving a bit more for another rifle but I also have a overland build im budgeting for.
I only have 150 rounds through this and my chamber is all chewed up already. It looks like this all around the circumference of the chamber. Is this normal? My other 556 ARs with 1000+ rounds don't look like this at all.
Aero bcg and Odin SS barrel/chamber.
Is the different hardness from the bolt and the chamber to blame or am I severely overgassed?
Any feedback appreciated. Thanks!
Got a few parts in for my second M5 based build (Dont mind the placeholder furniture). The first one just got an Aero BCG but is there a go-to for builds these days?
Also is there a go-to builders parts kit since the Aero kits are getting hard to find?
Hello all,
As title suggests, I’m looking to get an FRT or Super Safety that will be compatible with my rifle. Aero m5e1 in 308; currently have lantac bcg
Been looking at grey market research but not sure which kit to get for my rifle or if it even matters
Prefer to not have to modify if possible but I have dremel and whatnot
Trying to figure out why I keep losing zero. My setup:
PSA PA-10 Gen 3, 20” barrel
Scope: Arken EP5 5-56 FFP (34mm tube)
Scope mount: Arken Optics Rigid Precision Scope Mount 0 MOA Cantilever Picatinny Lightweight Scope Mount (34mm)
Zero range: 36 yards
Ammo: PMC XTAC Match 168 grain (for zeroing and all other shooting)
Scope Mount is attached only to the rearmost portion of the Pic rail (part of the upper receiver), not any of the forward Pic rail attached to the handguard
I torqued all mounting bolts (Pic rail and scope rings) to spec and used blue Loctite 242
I had this thing nice and stable for months and put turret markers every 100 feet from 100-600 feet (limitation of the range where I shoot). I could easily hit steel targets from 100-400, fairly easily at 500, maybe 60-70% of the time at 600 (fairly new shooter).
Have lost zero twice in the past few months. Yesterday, could only hit at 200 (every time) but not at 100 or 300-600 at all. I set up a 36 yard target and sure enough, I was off at that range by about 1.5” both horizontally and vertically. Checked the scope rings and mounting bolts and found no discernible movement or looseness.
Any thoughts about what might be going wrong?
I’d read that the Arken scope turret locking screws are notorious for shaking loose over time, but I checked them before shooting yesterday and they were not loose at all (and I’d successfully re-zeroed last time I used the gun).
The only thing I can think of right now is that maybe the scope is loose despite not seeming to be and I need a much better scope mount (I’d welcome any suggestions).
Update: Another possibility I’m considering is that I transport the gun in a Savior range bag, and sometimes I even stack another one on top of it in the trunk. So I’m wondering if I need to be more careful and keep it in a foam-packed hard case instead. (I do know that I haven’t dropped the gun or banged it against anything that might have knocked it out of zero.)
My first LR-308/AR-10. My take on the little known Knights Armament SR-25 DAC (Direct action carbine). I have a bunch of AR-15's in my collection but didn't have an AR-10. I wanted at least one and build two different upper lengths for it- 12.5" and 14.5". And then *maybe* an 18" later. Built it from a stripped Aero Precision M5 .308 lower receiver. This is the 12.5". I wanted to build one that looks like the Knights Armament 14.5" SR-25 K5 but 12.5". I'm waiting for a different flash hider and LPVO to come in. I wish KAC made commercially available URX 6 rails for SR-25's/.308's in different lengths and that Geisselle made MK16 rails for .308 AR-10's too. I'd have wanted to use them instead
Heys guys. I don’t own a ar10 and I was thinking about picking one up for a dedicated thermal rig for pigs. I use a 18” 6.5 Grendel but was wanting more power. And the fact I don’t own one. Would the Springfield saint victor 7.62 be a good one to build upon? It’ll have a nocpix h35 thermal and a scythe stm to live on it.
I have a Windham weaponry ww308 and I think it would look best with a carry handle+fixed front sight but it seems like there basically arent any available anywhere. Anyone know of any that are available?
Hi all, I've got a few 80% lowers from tactical machining and I'm ready to build one out. My normal go to is psa but apparently their uppers don't play well with other brands. Anyone have suggestions on ar10 uppers to look at for an 80 lower?
Gettin an Aero M5 308 stripped lower, does anyone know if the Wilson combat LPK is compatible or should I go with the cmmg kit or if anyone has a better recommendation for LPK
Looking to get my first AR10. I am not new to firearms or the .308 caliber. But there are just so many options. And with AERO precision being on fire and impossible to find their stuff in stock I’ve started to look at prebuilt rifles. Wondering you guys had recommendations for 20in .308s. That are just good reliability for hunting/200-300yrd target shooting. Looking at about a $5k budget for rifle and accessories (scope, extra mags etc.)
Edit: my local shop has a New LWRC R.E.P.R. MK2 7.62 16” for $3800 (about $4200 after tax) which is the cheapest I have seen them anywhere. Just wondering what the general consensus was on them I’ve seen a lot of mixed reviews regarding QC and poor CS. And others saying they are the best AR10 Pattern rifles on the market.
Just picked up a Christensen arms barrel( 308 18”). My biggest concern with this build is the buffer system and getting the correct springs and weights etc to save me from a headache in the long run. This build will be a precision build as well as being suppressed. Any help please and what parts you recommend for everything else THANKS!
First time staking a castle nut- does this look too close to the edge? I already have an extra end plate so trying again wouldn’t be a big deal
I have a 13.9P&W, with a KAK adjustable gas block. Barrel and bolt are Faxon, upper and lower are Aero. I took it out the first time and on every round, the bolt fails to extract the round, and I have to tap the case out with a cleaning rod. They’re not stuck bad, one light tap gets them out. This happens no matter what gas setting I use, even turned all the way off, when I try to manually cycle it the bolt just lets go of the round with very little pressure on the charging handle. I don’t believe it’s an ammo issue, as I’ve tried Winchester, Hirtenburger, PMC, Armscor, and Swiss 147gr M80, all brass cased. I’m thinking it may be a bad extractor, but am interested in any recommendations and if anyone else has had this issue or any ideas.