Atlas / PZ sent me this 4.6” after watching my videos and what I shared from the first couple of kits and I took another stab at barrel fitting. Safe to say this one was done correctly and is a shooter!
Going to run it on an indoor match this week and then get it all blended and prepared for coating.
Well I got all of the small parts fit!
It racks like butter!
Time to Test fire and tune baby!
Hello all, I'd like to give building a 2011 a go. I'm looking at this for the experience. My question is this: which frame is a good starting point, Cheely, Brazos or Jem? or are these really all similar enough that it doesn't matter? Thanks in advance.
I bought a Girsan Witness Match X. Have done many upgrades to it including EGW ignition kit, red dirt trigger, Kimber 2K11 aluminum grip module, and more. I do not like the gray color of the frame and barrel. Has anybody taken it apart and polished them to be chrome-like? I like that look as a have a Canik Rival S in Chrome and I like that.
Any advise?
My wife takes way better pictures than I do. Thankfully she got some good ones before I sent this one off.
Custom made Damascus sight block and trigger with a ported island barrel.
Yo fellas, I'm a new FFL07 (which I got due to match bros wanting me to build their guns, but wasn't licensed to do it for money). Any interest in semi-custom shortblocks ala the brazos custom people seem to like?
I'm putting this listing together:
https://bensblasters.com/product/made-to-order-short-blocks/
My idea is that I do all the hard parts (barrel/slide/frame fitting) to make this a bit more accessible, give some more options than Brazos and their ported slides (I use their blank slides), and beat them on price a bit.
Couldn't find one so fabricated this. So much easier to operate and haven't accidentally dumped a mag yet.
I use it in the food industry and it is shockingly good.
It is:
-Only .00005inch thick—no buildup.
-A molecular bond, so no flaking or peeling on steel or SS. Aluminum is the only trouble for TDC.
-Satin! Darkish gray.
-Incredibly low coefficient of friction. And its favorite surface to slide on…it itself! TDC on TDC.
Its wear characteristics are astounding. I could go on, but it’s so good at making wear resistant and corrosion resistant parts….that my secret in food-machinery design is sometimes it’s more corrosion resistant to make a part of high carbon steel and add TDC coating to it than it is to make it from stainless. Abrasive products like peanut butter that would consume a hardened stainless pump lobe in 6 months….now last 1.5 years (and maintenance is just sending them in to be stripped and new TDC reapplied).
Hey guys, I wanted to ask for some opinions on a recoil/muzzle rise change my friend noticed with his Titan.
The gun has around 60,000+ rounds total on it. It had a new barrel fitted by a very good local gunsmith, and that new barrel now has around 10,000+ rounds through it.
Recently, my friend started feeling like the gun is a little more jumpy than before. It is not malfunctioning at all. Reliability is still 100%, and the ammo is from the same batch. The recoil spring is around 9–10 lb.
The main thing he noticed is not that the gun feels “broken,” but that the muzzle seems to rise a little more than it used to, and the recoil impulse feels slightly sharper.
Since the new barrel already has around 10k rounds on it, I am wondering if this is more likely related to wear or spring setup rather than the original barrel fitting.
A few things I am thinking about:
Recoil spring fatigue
Maybe the 9–10 lb spring has softened up and the slide is moving faster than before.
Main spring / hammer spring wear
Could a tired main spring also make the slide feel faster and make the gun feel more jumpy?
Lower lug / slide stop pin wear
After 10k rounds on the fitted barrel and 50k+ rounds on the gun, could the lower lug contact or slide stop pin wear change the timing or recoil impulse?
Lockup wear
Could upper lug, hood, or vertical lockup wear make the gun still run fine but feel less solid and more jumpy?
Slide/frame looseness
The slide-to-frame fit has started to loosen slightly after the high round count. Could that contribute to the gun feeling less planted, even if it does not affect reliability?
What would you guys check first? Would you start with fresh recoil springs and maybe a main spring, or would you have the gunsmith inspect barrel timing, lower lug contact, slide stop pin wear, and lockup first?
Any advice from people who have high-round-count 2011s or have experienced a recoil feel change after a barrel has been fitted and broken in would be appreciated.
My saga of continuing to try and encourage you guys to try new 80% platforms continues. Episode 3 in the 80% DS1911 kit build tutorial series covers the slide to frame fit. TL;dr it’s not hard even with just hand tools. The only intimidating aspect is the time and effort it takes. This was somewhere around 3.5 hours total. But the result is a zero wiggle, perfectly smooth fit.
Cosmetically it's like 90% of the way good (see pictures). I just had to enlongate a #4 link to get the DSC barrel to hit the vis before the bed so I don't feel I can charge full price for it. Functionally sound though. The frame/slide/barrel fit is totally up to snuff though.
Working through fitting an island barrel/slide setup and wanted to sanity check where I am in the process.
I originally had some odd lockup behavior and was seeing Dykem marks on the upper barrel lugs, mostly on the left side. I eventually realized the extractor was contacting the side of the barrel and likely biasing things. With the extractor removed the barrel now goes smoothly into and out of lockup with no sticking or “pop.”
At this point, however, I am no longer seeing any Dykem transfer/marking on the upper barrel lugs at all. I have not fit the lower lugs yet and am only evaluating slide/barrel fitment at this stage.
Is it normal to see essentially no upper lug contact before lower lug fitting/camming geometry is established? Or should I still be expecting at least some contact marks at this point?
Thanks for any input.
