Thought I was bidding less, high bid jumped up before I hit the bid button, auction ended. Oh well.
Non-magnetic, pings with beautiful tone, I paid maybe $20 too much.
That doesn’t look like Minneapolis to me…
This is a cheap gold-plated souvenir I picked up today. I was amused.
Got it modified with a white handle and translucent resin emitter and cores, the electronics were finally breaking in, and all of a sudden one of the springs that holds the claws open after flicking snapped. (You can see it hanging out in the 3rd picture.) Ugh.
Is there an easy way to fix this? Or, more likely, can someone recommend a modder who can fix this? (The modder I used did an incredible job, but they may have moved on to different projects)...
It still looks okay because it's on the bottom when the button is up but I would like to get it fixed at some point.
I just got this gold plated token thing today, and realized that something was off about the image on the front.
I can't find any documentation online...perhaps my google-fu is failing me. I assumed that it was "Red dot fills the hole, time to rewind," but then I noticed that the disc with the hole rotates as well.
Does the hole-disc correspond to one of the two mainsprings, and the disc with the red dot the other one? Can someone direct me to documentation on this movement? (hoping to service it at some point...)
It was picked over already, but I got six unique figs out of it.
Clockwise from top left: Grade 974 from 1920 in a base metal salesman's case, a 992B from 1943 in a US Govt. Ordnance Dept. case, and a 925 from 1905 in an electroplated hunter case (although all of the electroplated gold seems to have worn away in the past 110 years).
Not pictured: two more 992s waiting for me to install new mainsprings.
That US Government issued watch in particular keeps very good time -- +/- 2 or 3 seconds a day.
One of the first vintage watches I picked up was a 1910 Waltham Vanguard pocket watch in a salesman's case, and this back bezel and crystal have been vexing me ever since I got it. I've tried gluing it back in with GS Crystal Hypo Cement, and I've had a watchmaker attempt to secure it for me, but when I open it up for adjusting, I assume the bezel has just enough flex to eventually pop the crystal back out. Would the J-B Weld be appropriate for this application, or should I try another UV-activated glue? (We haven't tried UV Glue to hold this before.)
I just pulled the bezel from soaking in acetone for a few hours to remove various failed glue attempts, and I now notice that there is a tiny bit of play when I dry-fit the crystal. Less than a fraction of a millimeter, but still noticeable. How is that going to affect repair prospects?