u/l337g0g0

So lets have experience/knowledge sharing about what works best with wheel building lubricates/locking spokes and nubs.

I read you can use White grease, oil, purple lockite, and Boiled Linseed Oil.

My goal is to make nubs easy to turn for putting the spokes back, then to lock up so they don't vibrate lose over time riding. but obviously not tight where they are hard to turn to tru again if there is an issue moving forward.

What is not only going to do that, but is also simple?

Is purple lockite the best, seems the simplest, you buy spread, build and it stiffens and your GTG for a good while???
Oil grease stay slippery, and Boiled Linseed Oil takes lots of unnecessary work and dangerous from the flammable issues with rags. Where purple lockite has no overhead.
Lockite I can do in my room if I wanted, Boiled Linseed Oil needs a garage with fresh air and boiling apparatus.

And maybe use oil with Q-tip on the nubs to rims so they are easy to start off and the oil will evaporate pretty fast, like on a few rides? this with the main option also?

What you say?

(((Not my bike)))

Found a 2nd sleeper/decoy bike.

Lets rate it guys...

So I had an accident and the wheel was warped, a bike mechanic got it tru with muscle leverage.
I has a two dips (in the tape markers, Yellow and red) they are 1 to 2 mm dips.
They are smooth dips from 1 to 2 mm.

(((And I can't ride it like this as others say, I can feel these bumps when riding moderately, so these dips have to come out for these to be usable. already rid on it and those bumps are annoying. The two dips like this make that small normal section a bump essentially.

So I read a lot saying the tire is toast cause you can't tension spokes etc.

BUT... someone linked me a Sheldon Brown page where they show how you can take a dip out of a tire...
https://sheldonbrown.com/on-road-wheel-repairs.html
(A rim has a flat spot or is dented inward)

I want to see if I can get these two dips out with all your help and I'll tru it up and do a tension meter test and report back.

Who wants to do this experiment with me?

Here is the wheel, those are the areas of the dip, what is this next approach here?

Do you I do Sheldon Browns technique?
Do you think tensioning the all the green areas pops the dips out?

Ultimately is this a loss cause and unsafe? or doable under this condition of a 1 to 2 mm dips in those locations?

Thank you.

Again this is an experiment and not to ride on unless I get a consensus this will work and I'm GTG.

So I've played GT3 4 5 recently and within the last year or so.
I had a super hard time with 3 cause of AI smashing me, and tire wear being the principle gate keeping of the races from my experience. 3 seemed like a to strong tire wear traction test.
I had a hard time with 4 cause of the steering with controller and AI was not as bad as 3 but stil an issue.
5 seemed so refined for steering with the controller, and AI don''t hit you unless you do stupid stuff.

Here's where it set in...
So 5 when you steer you understand if you are to fast around a turn and oversteer if you take it to slow. simple right, this is GT5 racing turns from my experience with a controller, just turn hard on your controller and hit the turn speed right and you can turn it perfectly.
But 4 has WAY more layers to race turning in this game with a controller that put me off before but now I've learned what they were trying to implement and I'm falling in love with it.

When you turn hard or doing the turn to fast you lose traction instead of understanding, they punish you by allowing you to overstear and lose traction and then that cause you to lose speed coming out of the turn and tire wear was a smaller factor here, not as much as 3, but you have to factor in speed by making sure you get the cars turning speed down so you don't oversteer and lose more speed then needed to make the turn, so it's teaching you a valuable lesson by punishing you for not hitting the racing line properly, cause if you deviate from it and oversteer coming out of the turn your tires lose traction and the TC kicks in, or you slide the car if you don't have TC on.

The analog control gradient has such a wide room for error it becomes value learning tool of race turning if you accept it and play into it and not fight it.

I've just fell in love with this game again. I can't wait to get in more powerful cars and races to really feel this out more.

one note: this game I think with all what I stated was 100% made with a steering wheel needed to REALLY embrace all this game has to offer, the control can work like I'm doing it, but that nuanced in the turning spectrum is WAY WAY more controlled with a steering wheel.

I might have to buy a CTR and a wheel and a car seat and just go all out on this game.
I'm in love guys...

What you all think about this?

(((Not my bike, discovered walking by it)))

The bonus is the new bar tape and seat, this gives the thieves hope (seeing the top of the bike), till they walk around and see the bike and walk away. LOL

This has to be the greatest beater/decoy bike.

Rate this decoy bike out of ten.

Question in title.

Or do you have a photo of this theater, I was hearing bad stuff about sight lines, and this looks like no issue, so is this the Imax there?

I have the bearings and can use that tool, but was there a standard bearing size for pedals in this era?
2.381 mm (3/32″)?

The cost of riding vintage bikes?

Front wheel good rim, back wheel cracked rim. (at 3 o'clock)

I need the back wheel. (from the issue below)
Can I swap the rims?

I also have a (ANOTHER, not in the picture) back wheel that was warped in an accident, it was trued back with force, (it was warped sideways within the brakes. so the warp was not extreme, extreme, but bad.
It is now left with a hop and dip from the impact. I know it's toast. UNLESS,,, can you take that rim off and plastic mallet the hop dip out of that rim? then re spoke it?

Thank you.