The "HISPEEDIDO Official Store" disappeared from AliEx sometime in Q1 2026. They now have their own storefront.

They also (quietly) released their own version of the Laminated IPS for the 3000. This is different from the "Cloud Game Store" version released months earlier and reviewed by Total Kommando and Macho Nacho.

TK is aware of this new Laminated IPS and will probably review it soon.

Is it worth it?

This mod is justifiable when you're repairing a functional issue such as cracked/flickering screen, severe yellowing, or dead pixels. Currently, there's no aftermarket IPS as vibrant as the OEM colours.

Other reasons to do this are you don't like scanlines, you prefer brightness over saturation, or you want slightly improved viewing angles. These are personal preferences and completely up to you.

My Journey

Now that's out of the way, this true drop-in (no solder, no shell modification) kit is the most accessible for beginners wanting to do a screen replacement.

This is by no means a step-by-step guide, but rather a documentation of how the process went for me including tips and tricks along the way.

Only a PH0 screwbit is needed for the 09g PSP-3000. A plastic spudger is handy for opening/closing ZIF connectors and guiding flex cables.

The teardown is the most challenging part rather than the actual IPS installation. Be patient, work slowly, and if you ever have to force anything - DON'T!

It's less effort to screw through the warranty label than removing the sticker. Looks cleaner when put back together too.

This latch is the first annoying encounter when disassembling a sealed PSP. Use your fingernail or prying tool to unhook it. In my case, I just wiggled it gently until it let go.

I managed to do the whole process without fully detaching the homebar. This is to avoid disconnecting any more delicate cables.

For the 09g, a screw needs to be removed, so the lower-left trim piece (for keychain/strap attachments) can be lifted up first.

This lets you partially free the homebar (this is all you need). It's also good to remove the analog stick, so it's out of the way while you're working.

The most sensitive part is removing the 2 screen cables. I flipped over the OEM on top of a folded microfibre cloth.

The main flex is removed with the ZIF flipped forward (open). To the left, the backlight ZIF is flipped back 90 degrees (open). Use a spudger to gently guide the cables out and safely detach the OEM completely.

The IPS comes with a sponge gasket to keep dust from getting in. Applying it as a single piece is risky and not recommended because of the fragile thin strips.

For a safer method, cut the sponge gasket into 4 sides instead and stick each piece individually.

Installing the IPS is also the start of reassembly. Insert the 2 screen cables starting with the backlight flex this time, followed by the main flex.

The backlight ZIF may not fully close (flat) with the new cable. Don't force it or you'll break it. The IPS will still function even if it's slightly open.

The backlight flex on the IPS is longer than it should be. Pull the excess cable inwards or the frontplate will not properly close later.

If the backlight flex is sticking out, push it further inwards with a spudger.

Homebar and trim piece back in place. Don't forget to install the metal screen retainer on top of the IPS.

If the backlight flex was secured inwards properly, the frontplate should sit flat with no gap.

The Outcome

All done! Didn't break anything!

There's a negligible backlight bleed where the mic is when the screen is completely black. I prefer to keep all original parts intact during repair where possible, but you can remove the mic if it bothers you.

Overall, the HISPEEDIDO drop-in non-laminated IPS is probably the next best thing for screen replacement when it comes to functional repair.