u/TuRDonRoad

Back with another Rockwool question

Back with another Rockwool question

I am adding rockwool to an attic / second floor of a century home with firing strips in place. I tried removing the strips, but they were not budging (for context, I am a not very strong 110 lb f), so I am cutting the batts in half and using butt joints.

My question is if this looks adequate. Most rafter spacing is 16 on center, but some are shorter and some just slightly wider.

You can see small gaps on the right of each insulation run. Curious if those gaps or my butt joints look fine or if I need to try to fill.

Also, I am going to finish the baffle runs to the top. Just wanting to switch gears for a bit.

u/TuRDonRoad — 1 day ago

Is this correct?

1930s home with the attic converted to a second floor conditioned space.

Installing regular baffles to bottom of soffit / eaves bay (not bending baffles at the bottom) and installing R23 unfaced rockwool batts at base of floor since they will not fit in the soffit / eaves bay.

Is this ok, or do I need insulation in the soffit / eaves bay?

We currently do not have soffit vents (that light coming in is not present in most bays) or a ridge vent but will be adding those later.

Only 3 rafter bays have subfloor going to decking.

u/TuRDonRoad — 4 days ago

Insulation removal not complete

I started removing old fiberglass batt insulation from my converted attic. The contractor didn't finish cleanup and left all of the insulation in the soffit bays behind the knee walls.

When I called the owner, he asked for pics and said that was not acceptable and would send his guys back. The problem is, today is 70% humidity and 50s but expected to reach 80s and they probably won't be back until Monday.

Do I open the two upstairs windows in the mornings and evenings and close it during the day. It is a finished space and I don't want to ruin the roof or create mold.

What is my best option for managing temps and moisture until they come back.

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u/TuRDonRoad — 5 days ago