u/Outrageous-Okra-8411

If you want to more than just look fast pt.3 (DIY engine flash on ZC33S)

If you want to more than just look fast pt.3 (DIY engine flash on ZC33S)

https://preview.redd.it/lup71g9a0uzg1.jpg?width=960&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=10d1a4d2c4409580fd39d5c208e84a4c5c1d6440

To flash the car we need:

  1. The flash file itself – the one we are going to upload.

  2. Flashing hardware.

  3. Flashing software.

  4. KNOWLEDGE of how to correctly flash a Suzuki Swift Sport ZC33S. There is nothing directly about the Swift, but there is a lot of information about module 71, which is exactly what we need.

Our Swift's ECU:

BOSCH 0 261 S16 438

33910-53R00 053R0 ECM-053R0-0

MED17.9.63 TC1793 SUZUKI K14C

On the PCMflash website we find information that module 71 is required to flash this ECU. Following the documentation, we find on page 91 the wiring diagram we need – MED17.9.63 TC1793.

So now we have the required wiring diagram in our hands. The ECU is located under the hood, on the right, beneath the cowl panel. IMPORTANT! For correct pinout the diagram must be turned upside down.

Next step: order the necessary hardware – an OBD2 scanner / SM2 PRO J2534 -V2.21.22. There are plenty of videos about it on YouTube. Make sure you watch at least one or two to understand what you will be dealing with. During various promotions the price for the kit we need is around €27-€40 . Can be bought on AliExpress.

Next step: install the software – only the files that come on the disk with the hardware you received.

In this order: GrdDrivers, PCMflash, Scanmatik.

DO NOT UPDATE THE SOFTWARE IF IT ASKS YOU TO! Everything will break!

According to the "Read me!-First" file:

  1. The 3 programs in the Install file folder are installed in sequence.

  2. The FREE-ECU Gifts folder contains information about ECU maps and other related materials, which are given for free.

  3. You MUST click "No" when any window prompts for an upgrade.

THE AUTHOR OF THIS TEXT STRONGLY RECOMMENDS USING ONLY PROFESSIONAL LICENSED SOFTWARE.

Files installed on the PC, device ready, wiring diagram on hand. You need a place with access to electricity so you can plug in your laptop charger and the 12V power supply that connects to the cable with pins.

RECOMMENDATION! As soon as you receive the cable for connecting to pins, take an awl or a small thin screwdriver and slightly loosen the contacts of the coloured wires. Straight from the packet, the terminals on the coloured wires are clamped too tight. Through inexperience, I bent one pin the first time by forcing a coloured wire onto it.

RECOMMENDATION 2! Buy ANY cheap BOSCH ECU from a scrapyard that can be flashed with module 71. For practice. I found one for myself for €10~ a unit from a Suzuki Swift ZC72S (also used in Suzuki Solio). I practised on it painlessly and without fear. I plugged the wires into various pins, connected to the software and tested the flasher. I even tried to upload a Sport file into it. The smart program refused and said the file was not suitable. The original ECU for a Swift Sport ZC33S costs €250-€300 . I didn't want to brick it through inexperience. The details of the cheap ECU I bought: 0261S05712, 0 261 S05 712, 3391069L00, 33910-69L00, ME 17.9.6, TC1767. Because of that the wiring diagram for the pins was different, but the principle is the same.

Steps before flashing:

  1. Connect the coloured cable according to the diagram on page 91 MED17.9.63 TC1793. I had a question about where to plug GPT1 and GPT2 – in the end I plugged GPT1 into pin 20 and GPT2 into pin 50. The other wires and pins are labelled. There are three red +12V wires; the thicker one goes to pin 5, the thin one to pin 92. The thick black GND goes to pin 2, Can‑H to pin 83, Can‑L to pin 61. Good, they are all marked on the coloured wires.

IMPORTANT! The switch on the cable must be in AUTO mode!

  1. Connect this cable to the Flasher.

  2. Connect the flasher to the laptop.

  3. Be sure to insert the "green key‑flash drive" (it is needed for the PCMFlash program to work).

  4. Connect the 12V power supply to the cable with the coloured wires.

  5. Plug the laptop into its power supply.

Once everything is connected, you can launch the software.

DO NOT UPDATE THE SOFTWARE IF IT ASKS YOU TO! Everything will break!

Steps while working with the software:

  1. Launch the program. If it asks to update, click NO. Otherwise everything will break.

  2. When everything is connected, select our module 71: [71] Bosch: MEDC17(1791/1793) FLASH

  3. Click Identification. If you have connected everything correctly, you will connect to the car's ECU. When prompted whether you want to use automatic power management, click YES.

  4. Then click the Read button. It will ask about using automatic power management – YES. Wait. The process takes 2–5 minutes. After reading, it will suggest saving the file. You MUST save your stock file – to avoid problems and to have the option to return to stock.

  5. Next, change the module to [71] Bosch: MEDC17(1791/1793) EEPROM

  6. Again, start with Identification, then click the Read button. Wait. The process takes 1 minute. After reading, it will again offer to save. You MUST save your stock file – to avoid problems and to have the option to return to stock.

  7. AGAIN change the module to [71] Bosch: MEDC17(1791/1793) FLASH. DO NOT FORGET TO CHANGE IT. I forgot once and couldn't understand why the write wouldn't start.

  8. Select the flash file.

  9. Click Write. A dialog will appear – better not to change anything. Click OK. Another dialog "Checksums are correct" will appear, click OK. Wait 1 minute. The flash file is now uploaded to the ECU.

  10. Disconnect everything.

  11. Reconnect the car's harness to its ECU.

  12. If everything went well, the car will start. If not, you did something wrong.

I recommend familiarising yourself with the following resources:

  1. online — wiki.obdtuning.de/index.php?tit … hersteller — R3/R4 — GPT1/GPT2

  2. online — www.evc.de/en/product/bsl/ecu.asp — S1/S2 — GPT1/GPT2

  3. K‑tag instructions, GPT1/GPT2

  4. TRASDATA

https://preview.redd.it/18j8nu090uzg1.jpg?width=534&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=65fb950e96b919e5d9460c19b3b0c236197d623e

https://preview.redd.it/0ta8w6sb0uzg1.jpg?width=960&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=8c9b5f87fbd110516138930b659790f08a1070fb

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u/Outrageous-Okra-8411 — 7 days ago

If you want to more than just look fast pt.3 (Intercooler on ZC33S)

https://preview.redd.it/tqvvv2joxtzg1.jpg?width=960&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=25a741e8d1025edc48b5ced2e7b147fb7474f06d

Since the Safety Package car has a radar (damn it) in the lower part of the grille, it adds a whole set of installation challenges. We had to, to put it mildly, fettle the intercooler to make it fit. On a car without a radar, it would have slipped right in, almost like a stock part. The stock inlet and outlet are 50 mm, whereas all intercoolers have much larger inlet and outlet openings. The intercooler we bought has 63 mm openings. We had to buy adapter elbows. However, the 50 mm elbow was only available as a 50-to-76 mm transition. We still had to cut, weld, fettle, prime, and paint.
We also relocated the upper mounts.

Everything you need for the mod:
90-degree aluminum transition elbow, 51–76 mm
Round bar for the lower mount
Pipe, 76 mm diameter, 5 mm wall, 10 cm length
90-degree silicone elbow
Intercooler, 550×180×96 mm, 9.6-liter volume

If your car doesn't have a radar, an intercooler of this size bolts right on.

https://preview.redd.it/je0lb5xqxtzg1.jpg?width=960&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=1091f9080286233554bd08c12dde5d9b1510177a

https://preview.redd.it/xgeo95gqxtzg1.jpg?width=960&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=ad610e65854da6c51c1323e976624b1a38430a0c

https://preview.redd.it/hkqz8njgxtzg1.jpg?width=960&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=f66e57c2ae4d3e3be61f38232f1f996414f8bd96

https://preview.redd.it/yfr8owhfxtzg1.jpg?width=960&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=a375553d19e4affe07a12e6aa4d7cad2f7160ff0

https://preview.redd.it/3yg9qh7extzg1.jpg?width=960&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=3023cc0c60accbb5c0eb0eb81aa06547de98a631

https://preview.redd.it/q3h6oj8cxtzg1.jpg?width=960&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=439125793154db5c1c649795ed45869a53ba183a

https://preview.redd.it/xs3nts4dxtzg1.jpg?width=960&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=eed6f20cf33ddd925a71d29d6e990a654163bcb7

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u/Outrageous-Okra-8411 — 7 days ago

If you want to more than just look fast pt. 2 (musthave tunings on ZC33S)

So you finally decided to go for the stage?
Then let's start with the two most important mods - fixing the restrictive stock exhaust and the downpipe. Any workshop will definitely make you a catless downpipe, but the exhaust is a bit trickier. Let's begin with why all this is necessary.
Our car has idiotic ecology that completely choke the engine. A restrictive catalytic and a very restrictive exhaust. Below is a photo of the standard catback.

What do we need to make it straight‑through but quiet? That's right - simply weld in a Y‑pipe. Done that? And installed the downpipe? Well done, now your car is almost ready for Stage 2. All that's left is to fit a larger‑volume intercooler. This part is simple - u need to buy a ready‑made intercooler for your car from HKS or build one yourself.

standard catback

airflow

final result

For catback upgrade u need just 3 stainless steel pipes bent at 90 degrees with a diameter of 50-51 mm

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u/Outrageous-Okra-8411 — 7 days ago

If you want to more than just looks fast (Stages on ZC33S) pt1

break down step by step what tuning "stages" are available, how much they cost, and what is needed to implement them.

stage 1: Basic chip tuning (165-170 hp on 95‑octane fuel)

The perfect start for those who want to feel a power increase without serious investment.

What you get:

- Power up to 170 hp (measured on a dyno);

- Improved throttle response;

- Smoother engine operation.

What you need:

- A well‑maintained car in good condition;

- Stock exhaust;

- Standard cooling system;

- Fresh stock spark plugs;

- Chip tuning.

Stage 2: Moderate tuning (180 hp on 100‑octane fuel)

The next step for a noticeable increase in power and dynamics.

What you get:

- Estimated power up to 180-185 hp;

- Lower exhaust gas temperatures (EGT);

- Better cylinder scavenging.

must have modifications:

- Chip tuning;

- Fresh spark plugs;

- Catless downpipe (must have);

- Exhaust modification (cutting the stock exhaust or installing a tuned one);

- Intercooler upgrade (reduces intake air temperature and improves boost stability).

Important note: Standard spark plugs are used at all tuning stages. However, the Japanese tuners insist on using sport "8" heat‑range spark plugs for serious modifications, especially when the car is used on track. I also want to point out that a high‑flow (zero‑resistance) air filter is absolutely unnecessary on our engine. The standard air filter has excellent flow and works perfectly even on a car with a hybrid turbo pushing around 240 hp.

st1 on 95 octane fuel

st2 at 100 octane fuel

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u/Outrageous-Okra-8411 — 7 days ago