u/Knowledgesomething

Complete newb on the topic of re-celling my camera battery

Hi, first post here. I have been having this convo with Gemini but I think you guys/gals would know much better.

I have an old camera (Rolleiflex 6006 mod.2, to be exact) that uses NiCd batteries (10V) with 1.0A medium-acting fuse. When inserted into the camera it just says BC (battery check) and doesn't trigger the shutter. When I plug it into the original charger, the charging indicator stays on forever (it's supposed to turn green within an hour but it stayed orange for 11+ hours). The battery does get warm though, and I think that the indicator lighting up itself is a sign that the charger does recognize that the battery is there. Nonetheless, I think the cells have aged and I want to replace the cell within the original battery cartridge, with li-ion or NiMH.

The camera can take probably up to 16V. There's an aftermarket battery cage with three 14500 cells and a 1.2A fuse, the battery pack is made to charge all three cells simultaneously through a power jack on the battery cartridge. Some users report that this battery pack has fried their camera's PCB.

If my research has been correct, charging all three Li-ion cells simultaneously w/o balancing PCB(?) is unsafe, but take out the cells from the cage and charge them in a separate li-ion charger mitigate this. The 14500 cells are 3.7V each and three cells = 11.1V so it should be safe. I can also replace the 1.2A fuse with the 1.0A fuse. Could you share if you think this is safe?

OR, do you think a DIY cell replacement to Ni-MH 8-cell 9.6V is a viable option? I don't really have soldering experience, but I'm not terrible at fixing stuff. I can get a soldering iron and a multimeter.

I know that letting professionals re-cell my batteries is a more convenient option, but I'd like to use this opportunity and learn how to re-cell my batteries.

Please share what you think! Thanks.

Here are the photos of the battery!

https://preview.redd.it/uejvj38slq0h1.jpg?width=1080&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=f8386fd4c2431cc506d40fbdb066410f6be47044

Yellow NiCd cells are visible

https://preview.redd.it/kczbh78slq0h1.jpg?width=1080&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=1542bca9df913fc257b6bc31db8b96a5f4b87693

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u/Knowledgesomething — 1 day ago

Planar 80mm f/2.8 HFT shutter repair!

Hi!

I have a Rollei Planar 80mm f/2,8 with a Rolleiflex 6008. The batteries allowed for the body to trigger the shutter (and do the mirror up&down cycle) for about 220 times. So I think the body is fine.

The lens, though, when I attach the lens to the body, the body turns on the low battery red LED and doesn't trigger the leaf shutter. It does make a clicking sound as the leaf shutter tries to move but it seems stuck in the same position. The leaf shutter does kinda move when I press the shutter button but it doesn't close all the way, which is why the body can't trigger the shutter with the lens attached imo.

The screenshot is the maximum where the leaf shutter would close. When I trigger the shutter it instantly retracts back to the body and instantly comes back out to that position again.

I can't really find any information about the lens' shutter assembly, if I can easily unstick it. Is this doable? Of course in an ideal world I would wait patiently for its CLA and send it all the way to Europe but if it's an easy job I want to try it myself.

My proficiency with repairs are simple screw-out-lens-element-and-clean-fungus level.

Here is a link to the video of the shutter problem.

Thank you!

u/Knowledgesomething — 3 days ago
▲ 13 r/Rolleiflex+1 crossposts

I had a Rolleiflex 2.8D that I sold last year.

Its serial number (1604xxx) says that it's a 2.8D and looks the same with other 2.8Ds that I can find on Google, except one thing: removable finder and screen.

It had a removable finder and removable screen just like 2.8F/3.5F/T.

I really prefer this type of finder over the more classic one on my 2.8E. Idk why my 2.8D had the later finder. Was it modified?

I would really like to have my 2.8E have the newer finder too, but I imagine that the mod will be difficult since it involves installing a whole different part for the focusing screen, which might mess up focusing calibration.

Sorry if this was asked earlier, couldn't find info on the net.

u/Knowledgesomething — 7 days ago

My FH-869S (original glassless 120 holder for 9000 ED) was getting increasingly ineffective in holding the film flat. So some scans were starting to get horrible softness wherever the film was slightly bent.

Originally considered some custom-made 3D printed holders but I was looking at about $400~500. And the official glass holder (FH-869G) costs twice as much

Then saw this guide from a Korean blogger. He used an ANR glass made for Epson V850's 120 holder. So basically you just remove the clamps from the FH-869S and put the glass on the holder. The glass just sits on the holder and holds the film flat. Here is a similar blog in English.

I got two pieces of custom-cut ANR glasses for V850 for approx. $20 (I live in Japan and it cost about 3300JPY.) and put one glass over the film. Now it holds the film flat and now I can finally see what my MF lenses can truly do. FINALLY.

I tested it just now and it's night and day. I feel like I finally get the most out of this scanner (except wet mounting).

Tldr; If you have trouble getting film flat with the 8/9000 ED's 120 holders, get ANR glasses for Epson V850's 120 holder and get sharp corners.

u/Knowledgesomething — 7 days ago

I’ve gotten too cocky and decided to take apart a Compur Synchro shutter in a Rolleiflex 3.5A Xenar. Now I can’t put it back. The only parts I’ve disassembled from the shutter mechanism is on picture 2 and 3. Could anybody guide me in the correct direction? Youtube videos of Rolleiflexes seem to have different versions of the shutter.

u/Knowledgesomething — 16 days ago