u/Key-Operation-5322

Hello,

Per the title. Finding more and more potential concerns up in my attic while going through the process of air sealing it, hoping to get some pointers here so I can tackle them, if needed, prior to temps going back up for Spring...the attic get warm even in 70-degree weather when you're working up there lol.

1. Dryer Ducting. The entire duct, when I moved in last Summer, was PVC. I recently ripped the entire thing out and replaced it with rigid ducting. The length of duct that runs through my attic is ~ 18 feet. Should this duct be insulated? Does it matter the R-Value? Or can I just buy some sort of insulation wrap at the big box store and cover it?

2. Vent Stacks. All three bathrooms are vented up into the attic. One has it's own, independent system that exits through the exterior wall, while the other ultimately 'combine' into a single, large pipe that exits through the roof. Should all of these PVC pipes also be insulated? If so, are we talking the entire length of pipe, regardless of pipe diamter?

2b. A follow-up to the above. If they all should be insulated, what sort of issues should I look for since this home was built in 1990, and, to my knowledge, none of these vents have ever been insulated?

3. Whilst searching for all of the top plates in order to seal them, I found some wetness, which was directly under the vent stack that goes to my shower. Inspecting the pipe, I found it was cracked, and I assume it was leaking condensation. The amount of water wasn't enough to show through the ceiling on the 2nd floor, so I just dried it as best I could, then allowed it to air dry completely. I then repaired the pipe with PVC cement, and it's solid.

However, after I did this, I then noticed that same pipe slopes downward after it enters the attic, and the section where it was busted was at the lowest point of the slope, and also where the water was. Can I 'lower' this pipe by cutting off a few inches of the vertical section where it comes into the attic? I'm guessing as long as the pipe is at least horizontal, it'll be fine. I can probably cut enough off to allow it to slope slightly upward, though.

Hello,

I'm well aware that there is myriad info on the subject across the web, my issue is the information seems to be made up of answers that contradict each other, which is incredibly frustrating when trying to make a sound decision.

Is the Gila heat-reducing film safe for dual-pane windows? Seems the answer depends on who you ask, how many vowels are in their middle name, and what color shirt they are wearing that day. The internet is literally full of opinions that range from 'yes, completely safe' to 'it'll break your glass and seals', and literally everything in-between.

-Some search results say yes, it's fine if used correctly.

-Other results say it'll cause the glass to get too hot, or damage the air seals.

-Still others say it depends on factors like the type of glass you have, or the specific product you choose (Platinum vs Titanium, for example). But wait - do you have tempered glass? Do you have low-E glass? Did you confirm the UV absorption percentage of the film? What about reflection vs absorption?

One thread I saw said something along the lines of 'I have them on my windows, they work great'; another says something like '...ruined the seals on two of my East-facing windows...'; another was something like "well you have to make sure your glass is tempered, or low-e, that's the only way they are safe...', yet Gila is all over the Home Depot Q&A section telling all who ask that this stuff can be used on dual-pane windows.

How does anyone - or rather, an average home owner like myself - decipher this? How many home owners know the composition of their windows? My windows have *zero* etchings / labels / notes / BTW's / etc. that indicate their type / composition. Is this common knowledge and I'm just an idiot? This is the 3rd home I've owned, and none of the previous owners ever left me notes or receipts with details regarding window glass. My windows are dual-pane, double hung, and vinyl. That's all I - and I imagine most - know.

Frustrated rant aside, has anyone ever used these films on dual-pane windows (non tempered, non low-e, just standard windows) over a time span of several years? Hoping for some real-world testimony, not manufacturer statements or FUD.

Hello,

Created a thread earlier regarding the PRV in my home, now I need some advice in moving forward / finding the correct part for my main shutoff valve. If you were over there providing guidance, I thank you again.

Here is a photo of the main water line & shutoff valve as it enters my home for reference:

https://preview.redd.it/xr5tpolfpzxg1.jpg?width=1428&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=33ec71aa5c808acf1b0fb08be31f3d7483f2a29f

1. About a week ago, I did maintenance on my water heater, and during that process, I discovered that the shutoff valve on the cold water inlet does not function. I purchased a shark bite ball valve, which I now have on-hand, to replace that.

2. I also need to install a new PRV, as the one I have now is busted. Water pressure is "somewhere" over 100PSI (thats the highest value on the installed gauge), and it will not reduce if I adjust the PRV.

3. Both of these lead me to the photo of my main shutoff valve. I need to shut this off in order to replace both the PRV and the water heater inlet valve. Surprise, surprise, it also does not work, and so I need to replace it as well.

At this point, I'm going to have to have the sidewalk valve shut off. Wouldn't be surprised if it doesnt work, either. Gonna call the water co. tomorrow to see if they will come out and do that.

** FYI, I just purchased this home a few months back, so most of this nonsense isn't entirely my fault lol **

4. My issue is that I'm not having any luck locating a replacement valve that is the same shape / form as this one. Most valves are just straight pipes with a lever, but I need one that is "T" shape, that also has a shutoff feature, also has a single outlet, and, I assume, one that isn't designed specifically for ice makers, bidets, et al.

I've been all over Home Depot and Lowes websites, also browsed through the Shark Bite website, trying to find a valve that will fit here, but I dont see any in this shape that have all the specs I need for a direct replacement.

Really hoping this is a matter of me simply not knowing the correct term to search for. I've tried "elbow", "T shape", along with "shutoff valve". Also tried etc, but not seeing anything that will work.

Per the title. I was told that I needed to have one installed because the water pressure in my home was around 95PSI.

Whilst watching a video of someone replacing one, dude was at the spot where the water enters the home from the provider, so I went to that location in my home, and noticed this:

https://preview.redd.it/v6rrovn5wyxg1.jpg?width=1071&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=6d7411b8f1ad0678a33e958ce0ceff1b60c65759

Not a plumber by any stretch, but this looks to me like it is a water pressure valve.

If anyone can confirm that, can you also verify that the gauge installed is showing ~64 PSI going into my home?

Red circular valve at the bottom of the photo is where the water first enters my home from the city, and I think the larger fixture on the top-right is some sort of remote device that allows the city to read my meter from outside.

Many thanks in advance for any info!