u/JustsoTyke

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Image 3 —

I am going to preface with this:
-This is not a shit post. The only engine I’ve torn down was a Subaru boxer where the main crank pulley just wiggles off after the bolt is broken loose. This is a full fresh/new parts only build so I’ve never pulled a crank pulley off an LS

Real post:
-How close to being finished with this job am I? Between the crank snout face and the face of the balancer where the installer bearing nut pushes during install I have 0.1275” before they’re flush. (No photo)
-From the where the installer bearing nut rides in the pulley snout to the start of the threads in the crank there is 3.022” (photo 1)
-I have slightly over 10 turns of thread engagement on bolt before it gets tight. About 0.849” of engagement. I did not apply any torque to this bolt, but I am aware they’re 1 time use, just got it barely finger tip tight while checking # of turns. (Photo 2)
-Photo 3 is where the balancer snout sits in relation to the front cover. Do I need to get an extra deep socket to seat the balancer the extra 0.127” to be flush with crank snout or is it ready for the final install bolt and torque?

Edits for formatting

u/JustsoTyke — 13 days ago

Picture for attention.

Doing a pretty gnarly setup for engine/transmission in my truck, I feel like at this point the factory rear end will be my weak point (plus 1 tire fire). What good options do you wonderful, knowledgeable people have that require no fab and can bolt straight in. Extra brownie points for rear disc conversions!

Thanks!

u/JustsoTyke — 15 days ago