u/Humble_Ad_5673

It's our first lime pointing job and we would really appreciate feedback before we start this weekend! For an internal rubble stone wall we exposed, we need to fill gaps (up to 5cm) and also apply a ~1cm "veneer" over existing pointing. The goal is to get a smoother finish on the pointing, but we're not worried about achieving a flat wall/even depth.

Already done:

- Removed brittle/loose pointing

- Chiselled old smeared mortar off stone faces (the wall was originally hidden behind lath and plaster, so it was never intended to be exposed decoratively)

- Brushed and dusted clean

Next steps:

1.Should I still key the joints even though the surface is already very rough/uneven? Considering this step as I know thinly applied (1cm) lime mortar needs the right preparation to cure properly.

2.Start with deeper gaps first:

• Dampen the areas (damp, not dripping)
• Fill in 1–2cm lifts
• Wait until “green firm” (thumb leaves only a slight mark) before adding more
• We probably can manage 2–3 lifts in a day; if we stop for the night, we'll hang damp hessian sheets so it dries slowly

3.Final top layer:

• Dampen again before applying
• Aim for ~1cm minimum to avoid feather edges and help curing
• As mentioned, we’re fine with the wall staying uneven/not perfectly flat, and we're ok sacrificing stone face to maintain thickness where needed

4.Hang damp hessian or cotton sheets ~2–5cm in front of the wall for humidity control while curing. Mist it throughout the day to keep it damp.

5.Once the top layer is green firm, lightly brush with a churn brush to smooth where needed. I've seen people hit churn brushes over the pointing as well, but not sure if this is helpful for the top layer?

6.Curing:

• First 3 days: keep hessian damp with regular misting
• Next 4 days: lighter misting on the hessian; if cracks appear, brush over them
• Then remove hessian and leave for another week to dry without misting
• Finally, brush layer of breathable stone sealant to avoid future dust; following dry time on the bottle

Does this sound broadly correct for our wall? It's fairly protected in a small closet-like space (photo below). After all this is done, we will move on with the rest of the room renovations.

https://preview.redd.it/606hhmaktxzg1.jpg?width=768&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=2a1b9175f6850973a3a550ad33251985275e74dc

It's our first lime pointing job and we would really appreciate feedback before we start this weekend. For an internal rubble stone wall we exposed, we need to fill gaps (up to 5cm) and also apply a ~1cm "veneer" over existing pointing. The goal is to get a smoother finish on the pointing, but we're not worried about achieving a flat wall/even depth.

Already done:

- Removed brittle/loose pointing

- Chiselled old smeared mortar off stone faces (the wall was originally hidden behind lath and plaster, so it was never intended to be exposed decoratively)

- Brushed and dusted clean

Next steps:

1.Should I still key the joints even though the surface is already very rough/uneven? Considering this step as I know thinly applied (1cm) lime mortar needs the right preparation to cure properly.

2.Start with deeper gaps first:

• Dampen the areas (damp, not dripping)
• Fill in 1–2cm lifts
• Wait until “green firm” (thumb leaves only a slight mark) before adding more
• We probably can manage 2–3 lifts in a day; if we stop for the night, we'll hang damp hessian sheets so it dries slowly

3.Final top layer:

• Dampen again before applying
• Aim for ~1cm minimum to avoid feather edges and help curing
• As mentioned, we’re fine with the wall staying uneven/not perfectly flat, and we're ok sacrificing stone face to maintain thickness where needed

4.Hang damp hessian or cotton sheets ~2–5cm in front of the wall for humidity control while curing. Mist it throughout the day to keep it damp.

5.Once the top layer is green firm, lightly brush with a churn brush to smooth where needed. I've seen people hit churn brushes over the pointing as well, but not sure if this is helpful for the top layer?

6.Curing:

• First 3 days: keep hessian damp with regular misting
• Next 4 days: lighter misting on the hessian; if cracks appear, brush over them
• Then remove hessian and leave for another week to dry without misting
• Finally, brush layer of breathable stone sealant to avoid future dust; following dry time on the bottle

Does this sound broadly correct for our wall? It's fairly protected in a small closet-like space (photo below). After all this is done, we will move on with the rest of the room renovations.

https://preview.redd.it/5c16plwdkxzg1.jpg?width=768&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=db17acad88e02a739f067f743fe74fcb75c7630f

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We want to test for cables before adding fixtures (heavy duty shelves and photos with nails, screw, etc), but all we have on hand is a Martindale Two Pole Voltage detector - ie the one where you touch the wires. What is the best way to locate cables so we don't accidenetally electrocute ourselves?

UK is 240v, so we want to be extra careful.

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1. Have the Earned Settlement changes landed? I remember following the proposal closely, but I'm not sure if there are any points in discussion at this stage.

2. Pending the question above - With the Earned Settlement model, spouses are still on a 5 year ILR pathway, but do extra metrics like volunteering and passing a higher language exam contribute toward reduced years on that pathway like they do for others?

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thanks!

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This would be very different from our usual travelling style, but it's also everyone's first time in India in general, and I'm aware Rajasthan is so wonderful but can be a lot to wrangle if you're unfamiliar.

Appreciate any advice!

I've had my second lobe piercing for 10 weeks, and they're going well. I've read I shouldn't regularly change the earring for 3-6 months, but I'd like to know if I can change my titanium stud for a similar guage hoop at this stage, or if hoops are not recommended for new piercings.

thanks!