u/Finding-Money

[Semi-Experienced Mountaineer] Can I climb Ama Dablam?

Hi folks,

I feel like asking the question above already is an answer in itself, but I need some neutral opinions (ideally from someone who's done Ama Dablam and/or experienced mountaineers) since I sometimes tend to underestimate my abilities.

Ama Dablam is the one mountain I'm dreaming of and this October would be a great window of opportunity (family/job, etc.) to do it. I'm only questioning if I should postpone for another year to get more training (There is NO rush - if I can't do it this year, it's ok for me as well). Here are the facts:

Mountaineering Experience:

I'm 36, been going to the mountains (northern Alps/Bavaria) for more than 25 years now. I started transitioning from hiking to mountaineering about 7 years ago, took courses for climbing (in-/outdoors, alpine climbing), mountaineering (glacier courses beginner/advanced), Ice Climbing (3 training camps in total). Unfortunately, I don't get to use these skills a lot since none of my friends are remotely into mountaineering, but I've taken several trips with the German Alpine Club (see below).

I've done lead climbing on short WI4-/3+ Ice Climbing routes, rappelling is a no-brainer and even though it's been a while I've used all this, I'd still be confident to go multi-pitch alpine climbing (maybe with a short rehearsal of rope management). I'm not a rookie on any of this, I feel confident even though it's a bit rusty.

Altitude experience: I started with the Annapurna Circuit in 2021 (5.416m), did the Three Passes Trek + Island Peak (where we had to turn around at 6.000 m) as well as the Spaghetti Route in Switzerland in 2023, summited Illiniza Norte (5.126m, fun walk in the park) and Cotopaxi (5.897m, a bit more strenuous) in Ecuador in November 2025. Turned around on Chimborazo at 6.000m as well but only due to bad weather. I've never remotely had any problems with altitude but actually felt pretty comfortable. I know how to handle it and I'm very cautious about it.

Fitness Level:

For Island Peak, Annapurna Circuit and Spaghetti Route I've done zero to only a little training (Zone 2 running). It all went well, although I got pushed to my limits. Since then (2 years) I've been running 4-6 times a week, mostly Zone 2. My long runs are too short (75-90min), but I can ramp this up easily. Last August I've spontaneously done a 52km Ultra with 2.300m of altitude up and down. Took me 10 hours since my knee was fucked (fixed now), but my endurance was comfortable. Three weeks ago I did a 66km Ultra with 2.800m up and down. Took me 12,5 hours and my legs were cooked (also had stomach issues for the first 40k), but endurance wise it wasn't an issue.

Given all the above: Is it unreasonable to even think about Ama Dablam or, considering I still have 5 months to train, it would be worth a shot?
I feel like it might make sense to try many other, smaller mountains first (there are thousands of great mountains in the alps to do first, I'm aware of it), but the window of opportunity is open to do it this year.

[EDIT: I will not climb it on my own but with the German Alpine Club as Expedition provider; it'll be 12.000 €. Forgot to mention that as it was never remotely my thought to do it self-supported.]

If it happens, I want to enjoy the trip, feel confident and, most importantly, get home safely. I' aware of all the risks and I'm very self aware - which is why I'm seeking additional help from this community.

Really appreciate any advice - thanks in advance!

Best from Germany,

Phil

reddit.com
u/Finding-Money — 7 hours ago

Mountaineer/Trail Runner - Choosing the right plan for Ultratrails/Ama Dablam Climb

Hi folks,

I've added a TL;DR at the end if the following is too long!

What I'm looking for: A structured training plan that ideally brings benefits to Ultra Trail Running as well as big mountain objectives. My idea is that the aerobic base will be highly beneficial (also, obviously, the biggest requirement for anything further) for both disciplines, I'm just wondering which plan would, in its specificity, be more beneficial for both use cases.

Where I'm coming from (training history/level): Long story short, when I was in my early 20s I had a very good aerobic capacity, then got into weightlifting when I was 25 and went up a decent amount of pounds. Life circumstances (Job) threw me off the track and from 28-34 I was still decently fit, but just not remotely into training. Started running at 34, hated it, now at 36 absolutely love it. I've not used a structured training plan but just used Garmin's Daily Suggested Workout (which felt good and brought improvements).

Did my first 52km Ultratrail last August (2.200m elevation gain; longest run ever before was 20km two weeks before the run, haha). Did a 66km race with 2.700m elevation gain three weeks ago, but it took me 12hours and 33 minutes - again, no specific training, no really long runs. It was just for fun and I enjoyed it. Problems mostly muscular wise, which is why it took so long.

Climbed Illinizai Norte and Cotopaxi last November (turned around on Chimbo due to weather), had some gas left in the tank and felt mostly good. Have further experience with higher altitude (Nepal trekkings/Island Peak); skipping all my other previous mountain experience in the alps at this point to not make it too long.

In general, I'd say my aerobic base is at least ok for my taste, but not more than that. I can spend long days in the mountains, but I really want to develop it much further. I'm currently running 5-6 days a week with an average of 40-60 minutes (7,5-10km) per run. Doing too few long runs, I'm fully aware of that.

Goals: I have another 52km race (same as before) coming up late August. I want to enjoy it, be able to run most of it and see what I can get out of training. Also, I'm still considering an Ama Dablam Expedition in October (still some things need to be figured out beforehand). I just want to be as fit as possible for both events without compromising one or the other. Obviously, if I climb Ama Dablam, this would be the A goal.

Question: Which training plan should I pick? The 24 (maybe 16) week mountaineering program would seem like the obvious choice for Ama Dablam, but would other programs like e.g. the 100 mile Ultra Trail program or the First Ultra Trail program be that much less efficient to prepare for both events?

Any other thoughts on my objectives? I know it's a bit of a wild plan, maybe you can help me find some structure and sort things out.

TL;DR: Reasonably trained mountain lover with 2 years of running experience and an ok-ish aerobic capacity wants to develop his maximum potential (in given time) for both Ultratrail runs as well as potentially an Ama Dablam climb in October. Training time is almost unlimited due to flexible job.

Thanks a lot in advance, I appreciate any suggestions/thoughts/critique (please tell me if the Ama Dablam idea is stupid with my current level of training and the remaining time).

All the best from southern Germany,

Phil

reddit.com
u/Finding-Money — 6 days ago