前進(Zenshin) is a Japanese word meaning progress. Citizen named its model after progress in watchmaking. So what is this progress?
Properties of Titanium and its Use in Watchmaking
Titanium is a privileged material, whether it's 40% lighter than steel, or doesn't contain allergens like nickel. However, it's a difficult material to use in watchmaking. Because pure titanium is very soft, it renders polishing machines unusable in mass production, and titanium alloys with high hardness are not easily processed.
The first brand to emerge with special processing machines and techniques in this regard was Citizen in 1970. Citizen produced its first watches from pure titanium. Unfortunately, these watches scratched more easily than steel, and the scratched areas oxidized and changed color over time, forming a patina.
The Super Titanium Era
The progress of coating pure titanium with a harder titanium alloy, which began in 2000, launched the Super Titanium era for Citizen. This made titanium stronger, lighter, and more advantageous than steel. Super Titanium, in turn, has different levels:
A. Duratect TiC/PTiC/TiN: This is a coating application on pure titanium using Titanium Carbide (Titanium color), Platinum Titanium Carbide (Silver color), and Titanium Nitride (Gold color). Citizen generally abbreviates this coating as Duratect. It provides a surface hardness of approximately 1000-1200 Hv. This application is available in Citizen's entry-level/mid-range watches.
B. Duratect DLC: This is a DLC coating application on pure titanium. It is generally harder than the Duratect TiC application and can be identified by its black color. It provides a surface hardness of approximately 1000-1400 Hv. This application is available in Citizen's mid-range/high-end watches.
C. Duratect MRK: This is a hardening application that oxidizes the titanium surface using nitrogen and oxygen gas. It provides a surface hardness of approximately 1300-1500 Hv. This application is present in Citizen's high-end watches.
D. Duratect α (Alpha): While it is a type of IP coating, not much information has been published about the technology used. It provides a surface hardness of approximately 2000-2500 Hv. This coating is present in Citizen's luxury watches.
The Progress of Zenshin and the Miyota 82xx Family Movement
First, let's look at the progress of the Miyota 82xx family movement. This movement family first began its life with the Miyota 8215 in 1977, and later, by increasing the complication options and even producing them with different tolerances and more detailed workmanship, it is a class of workhorse movements that has been progressed within itself. The Miyota 8322 used in the Zenshin 60 showcases the evolution of its predecessor since 1977, with its detailed craftsmanship, increased tolerances, the default hacking complication, and a 60-hour power reserve.
Speaking of Zenshin 60, compared to the previous Zenshin, it further highlights this progress with its machined buckle instead of a pressed one, a more symmetrical and aesthetically pleasing dial, and an fascinating 12-sided bezel that represents the crystal structure of titanium atoms.
Conclusion/Summary
Titanium is a truly fascinating material. You know how we say it looks better in real life than in a photograph? The Zenshin 60 takes this a step further, making it look even better when you wear it on your wrist. Instead of getting bored of, you'll grow into it as you wear the watch. There is one more quirk up its sleeve: it heats up less than a steel watch, preventing your wrist from getting burned on a field work.
As for the case, a three-piece design has been chosen, with a predominance of mirror and matte finishing. The mirror finished bezel followed by a finely brushed surface elevates the watch to a higher level. The 10 bar water resistance is, in my opinion, well-balanced for the watch's purpose.
The bracelet also features mirror and matte finishes, and I think it boasts top-level craftsmanship, the rigidity of the links is excellent. This time, instead of a pressed clasp, a machined clasp has been chosen, and the clasp mechanism is entirely made of titanium, although the micro-adjustment options are limited. Aside from that, the bracelet uses a pin collar structure, which I think is a good choice compared to screws that loosen without adhesive, strip when forced, or split pins that can give up unexpectedly.
The workmanship on the dial is excellent. The lettering on the dial is minimal, and the BGW9 luminova, while not the best I've ever seen, lasts for about 4.5 hours, I can say above average. The sapphire crystal used in the watch is also clear and doesn't have the problem of haziness that is common in relatively inexpensive watches.
The movement, while not quite on par with top-tier horology, features blue screws with machine made Cotes de Geneve stripes. The 60-hour power reserve is not bad, in my opinion; it elevates the movement from entry-level to entry-to-mid-level. There are no plastic moving parts inside the movement, and the availability of parts for repair and maintenance is excellent. My watch is +6 seconds ahead, which isn't bad, but unfortunately, the values promised by the company indicate that not everyone will achieve the same result by default.
So what do you think about the titanium? Do you prefer stainless steel or titanium?