u/Davidjohnnaylor

A few weeks ago I was climbing with a mutual friend and we were doing a "first ascent" of an supposedly unclimbed route. when he seconded and reached the top, he lowered me down.

On the top of the route, there was an old soviet style bolt, a single one. it seemed pretty bomber but heres comes the issue. Our plan for my friend to come down was to leave a quick link on the old bolt and I would lower my friend off that, BUT while he down climbs. Basically, he would just down climb the easy route and worst case scenario if he were to fall, the bolt would theoretically hold.

I definitely do not think it was the best way, but it was an easy route and my friend wanted to do that instead of rappelling off a rock feature.

Anyways, while down climbing, I guess my friend just decided to trust the bolt and with about 10 meters left he just leaned back. I kept lowering him, but then when he came down i see that he still had the quick link. Apparently he hadn't put it on the bolt and the rope was threaded through a thin old bolt while being fully weighted.

Im definitely not going to be climbing with this guy, for several reasons, but the main question is: how bad is that damage to my rope? its a brand new rope. I inspected it and doesn't seem to have any visible wear to the sheath.

Thanks.

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u/Davidjohnnaylor — 19 days ago