u/Cartoonbuffalo

I bought a 5 amp fast charger for my City Pro and going by nothing but pictures ended up ordering one from Ali as ​most seem identicalish internally. This specific unit has three adjustable dials​ inside that let you change voltage, current(5A fast, 2A slow, ect) and trickle current after reaching set point - ex. 0.1A at 75% and because of the fan is a 1/3 the temperature of the stock Apollo unit . After my city was written off in an accident I discovered that this same charger could be adjusted to charge both my 48 volt City and 52 volt Phantom to full battery capacity or wherever I wanted the charge to stop.

If you do purchase a charger like this and want to set it to charge your battery at full capacity I would highly suggest that you test the output with a multimeter two prevent overcharging and not relying on on-screen display that can be independently set. I can be a little confusing trying to figure out what charger you need for your battery but you can always look on the back of your existing charger to see what the output voltage is 48v battery - 54.6v output at 100% or 51.5 at 80% or 52v battery - 58.8v at 100% or 55.4 at 80%. I have played with the potentiometer inside and have been able to turn this particular unit up to 60/ 67 volts+ according to the display screen but I have not tested what the actual output is.

If you do have a multimeter make sure it's set to the correct setting(s). to test you need to use the negative probe and touch the outer portion of the RCA and then touch the center pin with the red /positive probe. I suggest wrapping a little bit of electrical tape or heat shrink on most of the positive probe leaving just the tip to make contact preventing you accidentally shorting the contacts and making sparks. After verifying what voltage/current is currently set you can (if you want but optional) adjust the display potentiometers to display the correct values if they are different (mine were extremely close but who knows)

I have been using this charger since November and it's doing it's job even though the original pin connector broke off pretty quick requiring me to solder a new one on.

I should also add that I am not an electrician just a millwright with to much time on my hands.

I've had a couple people ask how I mounted my light on my Phantom. While strapping a light onto the handlebars may work I was never happy with the way it looks... Instead I've wasted countless hours to accomplish something with the end result. :)

The way I've got it mounted now required removing the stem from the lighted steerer portion. Once it's removed disconnect the red connector for the headlight removing the light with and pulling the wire out. The spacing of the OEM light is just slightly wider than a action camera/gopro mount. The light I use is 1700 lumens and without the extension its lowest position will blind anyone coming towards you. If you do this you'll notice that the cap portion of the bolt actually goes through the regen throttle side and pushes against the mount meaning that there's not a ton of surface area holding the light/ mount in place requiring repositioning of the light. My solution was a support cable holding the GoPro adapter in place. In the pictures you'll see the hardware I used mocked up with a small Allen key. I crimped a electrical terminal to one end, drilled a hole in the GoPro mount for the wire, fed it it into the existing hole for old light and using a couple washers and a no crimp to hold the wire at the right tension/ position. And you're done.

If you're using a more traditional style of bike light there's a second root you could go as well. I only have pictures of this option locked up as I didn't want to re and and re ​everything. The mount here is a out front stem mount with 50 mm Max spacing, The light I have is made to be mounted either above or below the bars and uses a Garmin style mount so you'll also need a GoPro adapter as wel. I mentioned the above or below the bars because most lights need to be mounted above the bars and when they're upside down the cut off feature and light pattern will be terrible for the rider and pedestrians. Most of these mounts come with M5 screws whereas you're going to need longer m6 screws. It's pretty self-explanatory by the pictures but all you're doing is using the bottom to stem screws to support the light mounts and keep your stem tight. This option is by far less finicky and easy to install.

Good luck and enjoy being able to see far enough ahead to use Ludo mode at night.

I apologize for not proofreading this before posting but its 5:00 a.m. and I work tomorrow. I promise to edit it in the near future.

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