Had a new system put in today and they did a great job from what I observed. But I noticed they left it on the 30a breaker (60a disconnect) however the plate says max breaker size of 25a. Is this something to ask about especially before the inspector comes or is it not an issue?
Had a new system put in today and they did a great job from what I observed. But I noticed they left it on the 30a breaker (60a disconnect) however the plate says max breaker size of 25a. Is this something to ask about especially before the inspector comes or is it not an issue?
Went with Ameristar over the American Standard. Company owner and installer I know both said they’re basically the same with a slightly different cabinet and the American STD might be a little quieter.
Both 2.5 ton 13 seer single stage units. Is it worth spending the extra ~1k$ on the American standard both with 10year labor warranty. Just wanted other opinions and if I should cancel and change brands.
Both 2.5 ton 13 seer single stage units. Is it worth spending the extra ~900$ on the American standard both with 10year labor warranty. Only HVAC friend said they’re basically the same only real difference is the outer chassis , just wanted other opinions before a big purchase.
Have a 1991 heil that still blows ice cold with a 8yr old Ducane furnace. Thought it crapped out but the compressor stage of the capacitor was shot, new cap fixed the issue.
Being 35 years old would you replace the system or have you seen units last longer making it worth not addressing yet. If I were to replace should I keep my furnace?
I installed my first mini split and noticed a small bubble on the outdoor liquid line flare. I reflared it, and the bubbles went away. Using an analog gauge set, it held at -30 during a 15–30 minute decay test, I didn’t splurge for the 200$ micron gauge and pioneer said it wasn’t necessary.
Later, my HVAC buddy pump the system down and checked it with his Fieldpiece gauges. During his decay test, it leaked up to 2000 microns, so there’s clearly a leak, ikely at one of the indoor flares.
How difficult is it going to be to access the indoor head (already mounted) to reflare that connection?
At this point, would it be smarter to scrap the line set and start over? I’ve got about 20 lbs of R32 on hand.
Pretty bummed my DIY project didn’t go as planned—any advice?
First mini split install is done. I did install a plastic cover but have about a 3-4’ portion the white foam covered lineset is still exposed. What is the best wrap to wrap the lineset with for uv exposure/water as I’ve read the white foam rots out pretty easily.
Never fails. Old out door condenser took a shit as soon as I just got an 18000btu mini split installed in the rear kitchen & dining room (purple) that’s a all glass and skylight “4 seasons like room” that stressed the central air mostly during the summer.
The house is old with new windows but not insulated the best, and roughly 1500 sq ft. It has a small bungalow style 2nd floor. Would you recommend adding a second mini split to the front portion of the house and going the zoned mini split route with supplemental furnace heat when needed or replacing the central air condenser/coil?
May have messed my line set up trying to install myself. HVAC friend is going to come help fix. I’m going to order a backup 15ft set, in case it needs replaced. Is the icool brand Amazon sells good enough or it is it worth trying to source a 15’ Mueller Streamline set for likely double the price?
I’m trying to get the horizontal mounting bracket mounted for a 55lb mini split condenser. The house has thick old wooden siding covered by vinyl siding. My stud finder has a deep scan function but not cooperating. Is it safe to assume the inside stud measurements will translate to the exterior?