u/AquaXFrame

Seeking feedback on heat-tolerant plants for 35°C (95°F) water. Based on your experience, which plants from the list below are safe to keep and which will melt? Please suggest any other plants that can handle this heat. Vallisneria Hygrophila polysperma Water Wisteria Rotala rotundifolia Ludwigia repens Cryptocoryne wendtii Bucephalandra Microsorum pteropus Leptochilus pteropus Echinodorus bleheri Anubias nana petite Java Moss Helanthium tenellum Salvinia natans Limnobium laevigatum

Edit: I'm seeking info. because I don't have AC in the room. or water chiller. so if plants do not survive the summer. I have to buy plants every year.

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u/AquaXFrame — 6 days ago

I’ve recently started adding plants, but I’m seeing Green Fuzz Algae (Oedogonium). My tank is about a month old. Ammonia: 0.00 ppm (Dropped from 0.25 ppm) pH: 6.50 TDS: 135 ppm Temp: 32°C Nitrite: 0ppm Nitrait: 0ppm (drop from 2.0ppm) Substrate: Fluval Stratum + Bio-Stratum As I’m still learning, is this algae just part of the cycling process, or should I start adding more nitrates/CO2 now that Ammonia is zero?

u/AquaXFrame — 6 days ago

I previously validated my KH and GH kits by making reference solutions (baking soda for KH, chuna/calcium hydroxide for GH), and it worked perfectly. Now I want to scientifically verify my NO₂ and NO₃ test kits the same way. Is there a simple way to prepare a known ppm Nitrite/Nitrate solution in RO water using easily available chemicals, so I can match the color chart and confirm the kit works? Looking for a practical lab-style validation method, not tank observation.

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u/AquaXFrame — 6 days ago

Hi everyone, I’m a beginner still finalizing my setup. My tank (45x30x45 cm) is near a window. Direct sunlight doesn’t hit it, but the room is very bright. Since I can't make the room darker, should my LED run at the same time as the natural daylight, or is my current 3 PM – 8 PM schedule okay? >LED: Chihiros B Series >At present I have covered two side with cardboard.

u/AquaXFrame — 6 days ago