u/0202993832

Hi all, just replaced my power steering pump and rack and I’ve noticed this awful noise while flushing. I bled the system, let all the fluid out the reservoir and turned lock to lock quite a few times. Reconnected reservoir hoses, filled it back up, turned the wheel lock to lock a few times, filled it up again, started the engine, turned lock to lock about 5 times and this awful noise, almost like metal scraping started coming from the pump. No bubbles in the fluid, no fluid had drained at all, however revving the engine or turning the wheel made the noise go away. Ran it for another 5 minutes, no noise at all but it emptied almost all the fluid from the reservoir.

Using Dexron III ATF.

Hi all, I’ve just put a new rack into my car but I’ve realised my method of centering the rack was not proper and is probably pretty poor. Just wondering, how can I test if it’s centred? The inner tie rods are disconnected from the rack at the moment and it’s still mounted in. Id prefer to check if it’s centred before going through the process of taking it out the coupler and then recentering it since it’s quite a pain, assuming that’s feasible of course.

Cheers.

Hi all, I’ve just put a new rack into my car but I’ve realised my method of centering the rack was not proper and is probably pretty poor. Just wondering, how can I test if it’s centred? The inner tie rods are disconnected from the rack at the moment and it’s still mounted in. Id prefer to check if it’s centred before going through the process of taking it out the coupler and then recentering it since it’s quite a pain, assuming that’s feasible of course.

Cheers.

Hi all, I’ve just put a new rack into my car but I’ve realised my method of centering the rack was not proper and is probably pretty poor. Just wondering, how can I test if it’s centred? The inner tie rods are disconnected from the rack at the moment and it’s still mounted in. Id prefer to check if it’s centred before going through the process of taking it out the coupler and then recentering it since it’s quite a pain, assuming that’s feasible of course.

Cheers.

Hi all, I’ve just put a new z3 rack into my car but I’ve realised my method of centering the rack was not proper and is probably pretty poor. Just wondering, how can I test if it’s centred? The inner tie rods are disconnected from the rack at the moment and it’s still mounted in. Id prefer to check if it’s centred before going through the process of taking it out the coupler and then recentering it since it’s quite a pain.

Any advice greatly appreciated, cheers.

Hi, just swapped a z3 rack into my e36 however I’ve realised the z3 rack doesn’t have a slit for the inner tie rod locking plates to sit in. AFAIA the z3 didn’t actually come with them from the factory so ig they aren’t necessary.

So, can I run no lock plates when reusing my e36 tie rods, or must I swap the z3 tie rods on instead? Seems like the z3 and e36 tie rods are interchangeable so I’m having trouble understanding why the e36 came with them from factory.

The reason I haven’t already swapped the z3 tie rods on to be safe is because the e36 outers are recently replaced hence I’d prefer to keep ‘em on.