
r/solar



Is this normal for the brackets?
Are these burn marks normal or do I need to call a Technician?. Thank you in advace








We used solar farm design software to plan a solar plant on the Moon
So NASA launched Artemis II, humans are heading back to the Moon, and my brain immediately went to: "but could you build a solar farm up there?"
I work in solar engineering, and the software we use daily for utility-scale projects can model pretty much any terrain and conditions. So I figured — why not throw the Moon at it and see what breaks?
The setup
- Same workflows we use for real Earth-based projects
- Assume all tech is magically adapted for lunar conditions (yes, I know, big asterisk)
- Two candidate sites based on publicly available data
Site A: Lunar Equator (Mare Tranquillitatis)
14.5 days of brutal direct sunlight, then 14.5 days of absolute darkness. Flat terrain, simple layout.
Site B: Lunar South Pole (Shackleton Crater Rim)
Sun barely peeks above the horizon, but there are so-called "peaks of eternal light" — spots that get ~90% illumination year-round. Terrain is a nightmare though.
We modeled the landscape, generated weather data, designed racking for each site.
The tradeoff
Equator = high peak output + long blackout periods
Pole = lower intensity + near-continuous generation
One option produces 2.5x more energy than the other. Which one do you think wins?
FranklinWH and Power Outages
This is probably an ignorant question but does a FranklinWH battery provide any kind of optimized settings that could mitigate the brief power blip that occurs when there is a power grid outage and my power switches over to the battery? I've seen it switch over nearly instantaneous a couple of times but usually the power flickers long enough that clocks reset and computers/tvs restart etc. I'm assuming there's nothing to miyigate the switch-over time but I'm just looking to make the process as easy as I can on my appliances and electronics. My home's development has lots of outages, most are brief but there have been 12 since November.

Part 1 Ground Mount Solar challenging install in rock THIS is why sol...
youtube.com
Is this a good rooftop solar quote in MD (12.3kw)?
Got this quotation from Lumina - I am personally happing with the quote and all indications are that this quote is quite competitive. Any thoughts on this breakdown? I should qualify for the MD rebate, so my final price would be the Net System Total Cost in the quote. Also includes critter protection, 10 year leak warranty, and 30 year solar install warranty from a third party. Panels are SEG Solar YUKON N Series 440W, and the inverter is Enphase IQ8HC Microinverter. Critter guard is using solatrim from nixalite.
Hardware seems of premium quality, and i've heard good things about Lumina in terms of install quality. Any other considerations, comments - greatly appreciated!
100ah 51v dyness for 55k. Fair price po ba to?
100ah 51v dyness for 55k. Fair price po ba to?
Non-roof mounted solar question
-- this post is kind of a mess--
TLDR: why is it such a huge push to get monolithic systems on the roofs of houses vs offering stuff on the yard level? And never offering non-roof solutions by these soliciting companies.
I tend to DIY stuff and don't have any permanent solution. I'm on the verge of moving in the next few years so not looking to add such a system to my current house...
I would hire someone to do the paneling/adding battery system to where ever I move to. Why aren't yard/ground solar options more prevalent than they appear to be? I get it has more output on the roof..
It may work well for thousands of people putting it on their roof, that hadn't had a problem yet. It just seems stupid to me. I'm glad it works for you but it'll be tough to ever get me to that point unless the install makes sense and it's on a roof I'm willing to walk on.. (so single story).
I've seen solar fencing or putting it on a shed or other closer to ground level accessible places that wouldn't result in a catastrophic cost to maintain/repair/replace.. more DIY accessible at most ages.
If diminishing returns occur at roughly 80f.. why is it so much better to put on the roof in general.. Talking to salesperson is a lost cause with me
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First noticeable sign of clipping today - reposting as image wasn't visible
Our system is 22 Silfab 440 QD panels 22 IQ8AC microinverters.
Using IQ8AC max continuous power the DC/AC ratio is 440/349 = 1.26
Using IQ8AC peak power the DC/AC ratio is 440/366 = 1.2
Today it looks like the system started clipping at 7.9kW. This is actually a little higher than I expected and larger than the max continuous rating of the inverters (22 x 349 = 7.68kW) and just a little below the peak power rating (22x366 = 8kW).
I expect I will see a little more clipping as summer approaches, but nothing to worry about I think.
I modeled our system in PVWatts with IQ8AC and the slightly higher power IQ8HC and the annual estimated production actually came out slightly higher with the IQ8ACs, confirming that a DC/AC ratio of around 1.2 seems best.
The system is actually over performing the PVWatts estimates (PVWatts and installers Aurora estimates were pretty much identical)
PVWatts estimated production 610kWh in Jan, 702kWh in Feb and 1191kWh in March.
Actual production was 723kWh in Jan, 796kWh in Feb and 1381 kWh in March (we did have a very sunny March).
I am pretty happy with the system so far!
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Battery compatibility for SolarEdge Home Hub + SPAN Gen 1
I'm looking to add a battery to my current setup to maximize local solar consumption and provide backup during grid blackouts. Here is my current hardware:
- Rooftop solar array
- SolarEdge Home Hub Inverter
- SPAN Gen 1 Smart Panel (grid-tied)
What are the best battery options for this configuration? I've been looking closely at the Anker SOLIX E10, but I want to verify if it will work smoothly with my existing inverter and smart panel.
If the E10 is compatible, how should it be configured alongside the SolarEdge and SPAN equipment to ensure I capture maximum solar production and have a seamless transition during an outage?
Any insights would be greatly appreciated!
Solis s6 5kw plus - max ac output
So in Ireland without jumping through hoops, the maximum amount of power you can export is 5kw, so inverters need to be limited to 5kw output, not just through software.
This means if you have a large array once you hit 5kw,your clipping.
I have heard of some inverters being able to output the max 5kw on the ac grid connection, while also charging power with the excess. This is definitely a help but once the battery is full this benefit stops.
What I'm wondering is if I had devices connected to the backed up output (which is also rated for 5kw) could the inverter put 5kw out to the grid and use the excess on a device on the backup port? (eg, car charger, water heater, air conditioner etc)

Why plans to build Europe’s biggest solar farm may never happen
Botley West Solar Farm, which was first pitched in September 2022, has a target of being connected to the grid by autumn 2029.
Controlled load
So I was obviously stupidly expecting that I would get zero electrical bills after installing solar and a battery however I have forgotten about the controlled load. Just wanted to check that what I need to do is get a level 2 electrician to switch the water heater over to the main, install a timer so that I can pick the time it runs and then inform my electricity supplier that there is no use for the controlled load correct? Anyone got any idea of cost at all?
Deye vs Solis: Is one brand objectively better than the other?
Hi all! I'm deciding on which inverter to upgrade to. I have a cheap 5kw inverter that was intended to be a temporary solution until I could get something better. Now I'm looking something in the 8kw range for the next 5-10 years.
The best I can get in my region with decent support are:
Deye SUN-8K-SG05LP1-EU-AM2-P (5 year warranty)
Solis Solar S6-EH1P8K-L-PLUS (10 year warranty)
Additional context:
I have a 10 kw battery (no external bms connection) that's used only during power outages
Small PV array (3.9kw, might add another string, but won't be near the limit of either inverter)
I won't be exporting to grid so I'd like to be able to use the solar I generate (power blending? which I think both can do)
I use solar assistant to monitor (seems like both are compatible)
I'm leaning toward the solis because it's $100 cheaper, has a longer warranty, and more flexible PV specs. Is there anything I'm overlooking that would make me consider the deye?
[Hiring Me / SoCal] High-Ticket Closer Seeking New Opportunity | Generated $450k in 6 Months | Recently Relocated to LA
Hey Reddit Community :-),
I just relocated to Los Angeles from Miami and I'm looking to transition into the local Solar/Renewable energy market. I have a strong background in High-Ticket sales ($450k revenue in my last 6 months), but I'm finding the LA market a bit overwhelming to navigate.
I recently received an offer from a company that raised some major red flags: they have zero online presence/reviews, and they’re asking for a 1-year commitment and immediate licensing.
I would love some advice from the locals here:
- What are the "Red Flags" I should watch out for in SoCal solar companies?
- Are there specific "Boutique" or family-owned companies known for integrity and professional support?
- I'm personally interested in Utility-scale/AgTech, but open to residential if the company is solid.
I’m not looking for a handout, just trying to avoid the "churn and burn" shops and find a professional team that values transparency and long-term results.
Any tips or warnings would be greatly appreciated!