r/sharpening
Dad's dark corner of the house
It's everything I need* in a two metre spot. Inspired by the Sakai Takuki shop in Mexico city; he sharpens, his wife sells the knives whilst studying metallurgy. Lovely place.
*Aside from lots more stones, a bench grinder and other stuff I don't know about yet 😬
Restored this cleaver for a friend
No power tools used in the process
New Work Sharp Professional Precision Adjust
I've been using a Xarilk Gen3 System and recently got a nice deal on the WS. I have Venev Centaur 1x6 Donnie sided stones F100/240, F400/800 & F1200/1500 as well as a 1x6 leather strop. A universal stone holder from Etsy and some Hapstone 6mm bumpers/stops. The Work Sharp will take some getting used to and I'm not sure which system I prefer. I'm very new to sharpening but I'm finding it to be a calming activity. The knife I chose to sharpen is a cheap Kizer Mini Harpoon with 3V steel. Turned out fairly decent I think. I'd love to hear the best tips on recognizing a burr along the entire edge. I feel like I might be over sharpening. (Removing too much material)
I'm not going for a mirror edge but the F1500 stone gets a pretty shiny semi mirror. Strop at the end to remove the burr.
Thoughts on this sharpening job?
I'm feeling a little let down by the work on these knives. I've struggled with learning to sharpen for a few years, tried stones, diamond plates and had the most success with a lansky system, but even that felt like I didn't really improve the blades I was sharpening.
So I paid for a local guy to come round in a van and do it. Paid him his rate for kitchen knives and a bit more for whittling and leathercraft knives. I don't mind him taking a large chunk out of the cheap carving knife, and he seems to have not done too badly with the forged knives that I made. But the Wusthof chef's knife and the George Barnsley straight (no longer) leather knife feel like a large amount of material has been removed. Problem is I don't know enough to work out if the job is poor or not. It does feel like the bevelling is weird on a few of them now.
Did I get taken for a ride, or am I too sensitive?
This knife is a fking laser
Tanaka Blue 2 Damascus Kurouchi Nashiji San Mai Soft Iron Clad, HRC 63
Sharpened on a 325 grit Sharpal diamond stone and stropped with 6 micron diamond paste on suede side
Blue 2 steel is definitely my fave steel, sharpness and edge retention is ridiculous!
Mirror polish on a numb knifeworks cornerstone with Dr Marv's stones
Restoring old knife
I recently decided to invest more of my time to sharpening and maintaining my kitchen knives. I have been absorbing as much information as possible to hit the ground running and just bought a couple Naniwa Chocera Pro (400 and 1000) stones and Sharpal strop. I was also going through my late father’s kitchen knife collection and found a nakiri that my wife really likes but I want to make sure it’s both sharp and safe to use. I knocked off most of the surface rust using baking soda paste that sat on the surface for a couple hours then scoured off followed by another scouring with bartender’s friend.
My question is what is still on the surface of the knife? And can this be removed with conventional household methods or does it require more specialized tools?
Thank you all!
Benchmade M2HS Steel
Just got this in from a TSA auction, two questions.
What to do with the heel? Eliminate? Add a choil?
What to expect from this steel?
Restoration Help (Heavy Rust)
Hello folks! I need some help.
A friend of mine picked up these knives from a flea market in Japan awhile back and forgot about them. He passed them to me to see if I could restore and sharpen them.
I'm currently working on the right most knife as it is possibly the easier right now.
My questions are:
How do I remove the heavy rust? I've been able to BKF and remove most of the rust via the rough side of a sponge, but there's still a few rough patches (See pic 3)
How do I remove the (I think) stains? Not entirely sure if it's considered rust since it feels smooth after scrubbing, so I assume it's stains due to said rust.
The Nakiri's handle is kinda leaving black residue when I hold it. Almost like charcoal. Does it require a handle change? Or can it be saved?
- Additional notes: I have sandpaper, but no access to any heavy machinery or a belt
I'll work on these knives over the next few weeks, so all advice is appreciated!
Is there any way at all that the extra kit is worth the price difference?
Sharpening as a side hustle
hello guys, im new here. i live in a country where you can't find quality stuff that easily. recently, i was thinking about starting a side hustle. do you guys recommend starting with sharpening system, meanwhile trying to get my hand on some quality stone and improving my skills... or just go ahead and find some stones and try to work with them before starting the business
New, Cheaper TSProf Pioneer
Noticed today that TSProf restocked a bunch of things on their US site, but what really stood out was the new 2026 Version of the TSProf Pioneer.
The new version has an all black matte finish and comes standard with the upgrade glide pivot, but what I thought was crazy was the price is all the way down at $246, which is a crazy drop from what it was running when I got mine.
The link is an affiliate link from my channel from back when I reviewed the original Pioneer, just for full disclosure, but this release seemed to slip by without much notice so wanted to share it.
Naniwa Coarse Confusion
Would anyone be able to inform me of the difference between these three stones;
1 - Naniwa NK-2204 Professional Whetstone Goken Kagayak
2 - Naniwa Chosera #400 Grit Super Ceramic Water Stone
3 - Naniwa Abrasives Goken 400 NA-0040
As far as I can tell, #3 is just a thinner version of #2, both of which are splash and go stones.
But what is #1, is it a splash & go, or a full soaker?
I’ve got a 1000 grit version of #3, and am a big fan, so am now looking for something a bit coarser, hence my current confusion.
Thanks
P.S I’m still thinking that this subreddit needs to make a public spreadsheet of the “big name” whetstone and models, with columns such as price, material, beginner friendly etc. Would anybody be interested in helping with creating such a document?
Issues deburring.
I recently got aCJRB Pyrite Lite in S90V. the blade is super thin but I can seem to get an edge with bite. 600 grit and super light passes to de burr but still something there. I stropped lightly on 6um and now it feels glassy and has 0 bite.
how do you minimize burr on lower grit stones. Im trying but I don't know what I am doing wrong. Any good videos on that would be awesome. I've watched outdoors55 and others but I'm not getting the feel of when I'm doing it right.
I have 1 or 2 screaming sharp knives a civivi in D2 and my Magnacut Manic 2. everything else seems sharp but only for a moment.
70/30 bevel question
Researching 70/30 bevels - I've seen some information saying they maintain the same angle on both sides, say 15° but you sharpen one side 70% more, so if 10 strokes total on the stone 7 are on one side and 3 on the other. I've seen other information that says the 70% side is a wider bevel set at a lower angle. Can anyone explain in further detail or suggest reliable video to watch? Thanks!
Help with starting out
Hi, I need a decent setup for sharpening hand tools. Planes, chisel and other stuff. Kitchen knives obviously too.
Nothing fancy and expensive.
For now, all I have is cheap four sided diamond plates from 200-600.
What should I buy for decent start without breaking a bank?