Planning our first trip (Dallas, TX to La Veta, CO). After considering a lot of feedback, I’ve decided we will take it nice and slow and break up the drive into 4 days/3 nights with each drive coming in about 2:40 hrs. Perhaps coming back we will combine two days of driving for a 6:30 hr day but we’ll play it by ear. I have a few stops in mind but looking for recommendations along the route (287 to 87). Thanks.
Edit: i have a towable camper and not an rv.
I put this into the fresh water supply line at the pump and ran it through the winterization process to the sinks toilet and shower. The fresh water reservoir is safe and so is the hot water heater.
I am an idiot. This has now been proven. Please dont tell me to go kill myself. I know this is bad.
I have not found this question online. But I've seen a lot of questions about putting the abtifreeze into the windshield cleaner reservoir. Im either the only idiot to ever make this mistake or im the only one to fess up and beg for help online.
This is the pink 2010 debug summer windshield cleaner. It is not a concentrate . At first I thought, oh summer solution may have less solvent because it wont freeze, but then I thought its the opposite because of needing to scrub so many insects.
Can i fix this?
I got the harbor freight box. Had scrap solid wood shelf, put that at the bottom for rigidity, a thing piece of plywood for the back. Mainly to screw the battery trays at bottom. The back one for the cables and the bracket holding the digital battery disconnect. Also did a pass thru battery junction block I think it’s called. Got new locks. Had to make holes for the locks and weld the latch or whatever ever it’s called where the hook catches. One on each side since it’s impossible to do it from the center. Holes for vents, and did to size wiring and terminals. New wires on back to connect it all from rv to the back of the box terminals.
Need camper gone ASAP.
Will deliver anywhere in the country with the truck and bundle the truck in cheap.
8k for camper + AC + Heater + 270 awning + awning walls + maxxxair exhaust fan + 2 room shower/ toilet setup + 820 bolted to frame you can mount more on top. Added 2 bars for hanging clothes inside.
Added picture of awning walls from website (not able to set them up/ photo yet but I do have them. They have built in LED lights. I can add more photos of that if I have time.
Awning and bath setup fold over and lock down in order to drive without making campers wider on the road. (Shown in picture)
//Reduce to 6k if no one buys before June 1st//
Built in heater and Air Conditioner
Able to stay cool in 98° under direct sunlight for 6-8 hours on my battery system and then recharge with truck alternator
(Battery sold separately)
Full 6' bed means that 2 people can sleep comfortably.
Dishwasher, fridge, microwave, air fryer/oven, 2X 27 gallon totes, 15 gallon freshwater and 10 gallon greywater all manage to fit with the full size mattress folded open.
(All sold separately)
Is the basis to continue building out an even better camper.
Truck is 6' long bed first Gen Tacoma.
Fits perfectly the 80's Toyota pickup.
May also fit some 6' ford ranger beds.
Will include exact bed dimensions in photos.
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Truck is base model 98 taco. 200k miles.
Manual Transmission
Will throw the truck in for 3k but that includes
2 blindspot camera and rearview camera built in,
custom built $350 high amp alternator for Car audio that
gets your batteries charged much faster.
Custom audio system
500w alternator charger installed and ran to the back of the truck bed.
Brand New engine gasket, radiator, all fluids bleed regularly new spark plugs, brand new radiator, O2 plugs
Ac and heat work perfect.
No engine lights engine runs smooth.
Clutch replaced last year. Shifts perfect.
Truck has plenty of aesthetic issues and surface rust underneath but is ready to drive 100k miles with nothing but oil changes. Diff squeaks occasionally if you lug the tranny at all (but this only encourages you to be gentle with the transmission which is good for longevity) and doesn't affect driving. I have the u-joints needed to fix this. Will install if I have time but it's been too cold where I live.
I did plan on replacing it with a nicer 4X4 taco eventually and I recommend you do the same, but this truck is perfect so that I can use those parts I listed like the custom alternator and charger and transfer them into the new truck once you get it.
However this one will do you great in the meantime these trucks are known for running forever they always start and run no matter what and there has been a ton of maintenance done to this one ready for long road trips but no off-roading.
Is manual RWD.
Open to selling with or without truck and reducing the price of the truck to 2k without the charging/sound system ext.
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Need gone ASAP currently in Chicago will drive to you and drop off anywhere in the lower 48 for the upfront gas/plane costs fee.
Hello all! Short time lurker, first time poster. :-D My wife, kids, and I want to start our foray into RVing; we have a small amount of previous experience (3 trips in a borrowed Class C and 2 pulling a 30' TT). This previous experience has led us to wanting to purchase a Class A motorhome for our family to enjoy "before the kids are too old and grown" (we're early 40s, they are currently 13, 10, 9, and 5). For clarity, we're not against a Class C, per se, but I have over 20 years under my belt driving school buses and would prefer the more bus-like Class A.
I'm an obsessive researcher at whatever my current project might be. I've been down every rabbit hole there is to go down on my own, so I thought it best to consult the experts of Reddit for y'all's take on the subject. Our budget is 25K or less; that will limit us, I'm aware, but I'd rather purchase an older RV than a new(er) travel trailer.
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Here are our primary needs:
- Sleeping space for 6. Would prefer to not have to switch the table to bed mode every night, but that's pie-in-the-sky thinking.
- Relatively trouble-free. Yeah, I realize that's really pie-in-the-sky, as I'm looking at machines that are a minimum of 15-20 years old. I'm talking mostly about drivetrain and structural quality.
- Good AC cooling capability. More on why I specifically ask this in a second, but it's due to the fact that my youngest has a medical condition that limits her ability to regulate heat. Solid AC is a must.
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Here is an overview of some of the options we're looking at and why I'm asking for this advice (all three of these are $25k):
- As-new-as-we-can-afford gasser. Current option is a 2012 Thor Ace w/60k miles. Advantage is age (both age of systems and aesthetics), disadvantage is size - at 30' this is the smallest we've considered. *This particular unit is why I asked the AC question - it only has ONE rooftop AC, ducted throughout though.
- An old but formerly high-end-ish diesel pusher. One option I keep coming back to is a 1999 Monaco Windsor w/45k miles. Advantage is size (40') and build quality, disadvantage is diesel maintenance costs.
- A middle of the road option (most likely gasser). One option is a 2006 Fleetwood Southwind w/47k miles and GM 8.1 V8. Advantage is gas/hydraulic brakes simplicity and size (38'), disadvatage is it's still 20yo and "is it too big for a gas engine?" worries.
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OK, sorry for the lengthy post, but I really need help deciding this lol. Does anyone have any real advice to offer? I know the ultimate deciding factor on a 20yo RV is going to be how it was cared for... assuming that its taken care of and in fully working condition, what do you think would be the best road to travel? :-)
We just sold our Sandstorm toy hauler and are moving in a new direction. Wanting a smaller, lighter couple focused camper as our kids are all grown and on their own now. We have narrowed down to the grand design Transcend 20 MKX or the Rockwood Mini lite 2205s. The layouts are very similar, weight and length similar both we are looking at are brand new.
The transcend is 4,000 cheaper and a 2026 model however it does not have an oven, does not have an inverter, has aluminum siding and does not have a shower door or a tv included. I noticed a few minor issues with cabinets that weren’t aligned properly and trim pieces off. I like the long countertop of the transcend better.
The Rockwood is a new 2025 model. It does have the inverter and a bit more storage cabinets but less counter space. It has a fireplace (which I can’t imagine is needed at all), has fiberglass siding, and the shower miser (are these that helpful? Idk). The cabinets seemed to be better quality and it has solid surface countertops. The shower has actual doors. I do prefer the Rockwoods entry point as it’s away from the bed with the fridge right next there and bathroom. The imagine you enter next to the bed and the bathroom is at the far end. Not sure that’s a big deal but seems like less dirt getting tracked through with Rockwood set-up.
Looking for insight from people who’ve had or have either of these models or similar. I have owned 2 forest river trailers and not had issues really outside of normal wear and tear but have not had a grand design previously but have heard good things. Help us decide….
Understanding this varies person to person, what is your ideal driving time when rv’ing? I like driving and have quite a few long (12 hr plus) continuous road trips under my belt. However, I’m new to rv’ing, pulling a travel trailer (30 feet), and quickly noticed that the drive is not the same as not towing. One benefit (I think 😆) is that I don’t speed when towing. Without I’m usually 5-10 mph over on highways. With, I’m either at or slightly below poster mph- slower if windy. So, the drives definitely feel longer. We are planning our first long trip to Colorado, about 11:30 hours on map, and wondering how to break it up. 6/6, 4/4/4 - it’s a 9-10 day trip in total - North Texas to Cañon City, Colorado in July. What’s your ideal drive time? Any tips, tricks or considerations? Thank you.
Been searching for a way to find the part on google but just haven’t been able to find exactly what I am looking for. We recently locked our keys in the trailer and had to forcibly open the back bunkhouse window which caused our window mechanism to break. We have what appears to be a V Shaped Mechanism with rollers on either end that connect to the actual window to open and close it. Where can I find this part? Any help is appreciated. TIA