
A work from the Cabin day
My wife and I are both working from home today. We’re at the cabin so workspace is limited. She has meetings all day, so I’m banished to the basement. It could be worse.

My wife and I are both working from home today. We’re at the cabin so workspace is limited. She has meetings all day, so I’m banished to the basement. It could be worse.
IMR 4064, Unique, Bullseye, some Reloaders, etc.
At last, I have ascended. I look down upon all ye peons with your obsolete strain gauge scales and prehistoric beam scales. Behold the mighty glory of the pinnacle of powder trickling technology!
Hello all, I’m a beginner reloader and just getting all my reloading stuff. I’m wondering what the best way to start load development is to better improve accuracy. In my rifle I put together I have found it likes bullets on the lighter side like 205-215gr Bergers. I have tested Hornady eld-x, Hornady match, weatherby 205gr ammo, and Berger 245gr. I know what bullet weight to aim for but what’s the best way to get the lowest sd and es? Gun will be used for hunting and occasional range fun.
Waiting on a new bench + a 750 autodrive then we’ll be in business.
Guess I reached the Max on this bullet. I'll most likely just stick to mid 800s and go a little below charge.
Following up yesterday’s post asking for advice… Just finished an evening session getting these prepped for a weekend date with my chronograph.
New starline brass, white river large rifle primers, powder coated 340gn hard cast slugs, accurate no. 2 powder charges in half grain increments from 11 to 13 gn.
Any of ya'll remember when prices were like this? Did you have to work the same amount of hours to afford the hobby back then as you do today?
Same exact load of powder, 5 different readings. Tare function doesn't work. Scale been like this as long as Ive had it. It also doesn't detect trickling so I have to pull the pan off and trickle then weigh again. Anyone got good recommendations for top tier scales? Im sick of this janky shit
Recently picked up a nice mk3 martini Henry. Was going to shoot some lighter cast loads (240gr) out of it. Usually for cast surplus loads I use accurate no2. Was wondering if anyone has experience with this powder or similar pistol powder loads in the martini
Im trying to load 208gr BTHP .300BLK reloads but they are now getting crushed? I had previously leader 220gr RN with no issues or damage to the bullet? Any insight on what I can do?
Edit: Found the issue. I trusted Starline new brass to be ready to go and didn’t size it myself. The neck was too tight causing this issue. Since then I resized all the new brass and having 0 issues!
Hi,
I'm new to reloading. I want to reload 300AAC 220gr subs, as they're preferred by my hunting rifle but relatively expensive.
My father has a Lee 4000 progressive press and supporting equipment (scales, case tumbler and media, lube, reloading manual from '22 or so, calipers, powders and primers etc), however he has never used his setup.
He has dies for several calibers but not 300AAC.
I'm looking to buy what I need to get started.
Snippets of my current Midway cart are included. I'd like to know if there are any caliber specific tools I seem to be missing.
My brass comes from a mixture of firearms but is primarily S&B, all once fired from my weapons only (no range pickups).
A few questions I couldn't find readily in the FAQ or on the spaces I looked online.
Is it necessary to get a specific decapping/depriming die? It looks like the full length sizing die has a depriming needle in it.
How important is a chrono? I didn't see it listed in the FAQ recommended setups but my reading comprehension may have gotten the better of me. I would assume for my use case, loading subs, I'll be able to identify over velocity rounds quite quickly from the difference in sound.
Ive watched the ultimate reloader series on rifle reloading. Would like to see a caliber specific reloading video if anyone has a link. I searched a few times but the quality of these videos online seems to vary wildly.
Made up some 6 GT test loads last night. I have high hopes that one of these will be “the one”.
Once the test ladder is done I’ll be using these for benchrest competitions.
Lapua brass, Varget, Berger 19 LRHT, CCI 450 primers.
10x 33.8 gr
15x 34.0 gr
15x 34.3 gr
10x 34.4 gr
Just finished a batch of 100x 455 Webley cartridges to be fired out of an old Webley MK VI revolver manufactured in 1916. 3 grains of Bullseye powder is roughly the amount in one of those tiny salt packets from a fast food restaurant haha. It's nice they still offer brass and cast bullets for this ancient cartridge.
Just a random thought but is it even worth finding the lands on 9mm pcc's
I am new to progressive reloading and am trying to get my Dillion 750xl set up. I cannot get the cases to fall correctly. Any help with getting the correct settings would greatly be appreciated! Terrible result with putting the case insert slide cam all the way in and out
I have loaded pistol rounds for years on my Dillon 650. (9mm, .38/.357, .44 spec/.44 mag, .45LC). Decided to get into loading for .223. I am used to the case mouth being flared a bit to seat the bullets on pistol cases. After watching the Dillon tutorial to set up rifle dies, I can’t place a .223 on top of a casing without it falling off as I raise the shell plate to the seating die. Does the mouth of a rifle case get flared at all? I am using 53gr flat based bullets. I can see that boat tail bullets could seat a little bit when seated because of the narrower base, but the flat base just topples off the top off the case. I have to ride it into the seating die with my fingers and hope it seats straight. Am I doing it right or am I missing something. I am using a Dillon .223 die set.
Okay - for starters - relatively new to reloading. Im shooting a sig cross in 6.5cm with a proof research barrel. I have some brand new starline srp brass that im using at a COAL of 2.81 (manufacturer data attached). I still ran the brass through the sizer but after finishing the load - it feels TIGHT (in regards to chambering, I have to use a good bit of force to get the round to chamber and get the lever down. Is there anything that i may have done wrong for it to be so “tight”. Should I lower the C.O.A.L ?
Looking to get into reloading. have a couple of different options available near me.
Lyman Brass Smith Victory Reloading Kit: $300 new from Scheels
Frankford Arsenal Essentials Reloading Kit: $350 used
Which one would you recommend for a newbie? Can they both use other company dies?