r/rangeroversport

Totaled my 17 svr and i’m Looking to buy a new svr preferably 2017 but 2015-2016 works fine as well. looking for less than 85k miles. Will have cash in hand. (Wisconsin but willing to travel within the states

Hi, I have fully charged the main battery with an industrial charger and even bought a brand new battery to be sure. The auxiliary battery is also confirmed at full charge. I have also performed a hard reset by touching the terminals together to discharge the system, but the problem remains.

What happened:

I was using JLR SDD and entered the function: "Car configuration management - Current vehicle car configuration modification." While the process was running, the last message I saw on the screen was "Communicating with the Gateway Module (GWM)"—at that exact second, the car just powered off everything. The session hung and never recovered.

What the car is doing now:

• The Power Drop: When I press the start button, the dash lights up with a million errors and then the power drops. It stays on for 0 to 10 seconds before the latch clicks and kills all power.
• The Lockout: If the power drops, I cannot try again immediately. Even with the keyfob against the steering column, it won't react; I have to wait a few minutes before the car will even attempt to wake up again.
• The Random Start: Interestingly, after the car sat for about 2 hours, I was actually able to get the engine to start briefly, but then the power dropped again and it turned off inside that time frame from 0 to 10 seconds.
• Frozen Steering: The steering wheel is extremely heavy/hard to move because the rack isn't getting a wake-up signal.
• Park Lock: I had to use the emergency red strap just to get it into Neutral and tow it.

The Situation with the Dealer: The car has been at British Motors for 5 days. They claim they "can't move the car" and haven't made any progress. I don’t know exactly how they are treating it (perhaps as a hardware failure), but they haven't given me any real info. I am certain it is a software brick caused by SDD hanging during that GWM communication.

The Question:

1. How do I force the car to stay in Position 2 when it's in this "Death Loop"?
2. Does the fact that it started once after sitting for 2 hours suggest a specific "pending" or "watchdog" state in the GWM?
3. How do you force an As-Built flash via SDD when the ignition won't stay latched?
4. What should I tell the dealership? Since 5 working days have passed with no progress, it suggests they haven't even attempted a manual recovery. Is there a specific technical term or procedure I should demand they try?

I apologies for longer post but i really need help since I am stuck. I do no have any screenshots since car is at British motors.

I am picking up my new 2026 RR sport at the end of the month. It’s Santorini black. Should i have it ceramic coated after i pick it up or leave alone?

I know all the write-ups about horrible RR reliability and I've also read about lots of people with 160k miles on the odo with only standard maintenance. I've also read about certain generations having issues, while others are solid.

Here's my use case. I only drive cars under factory or CPO warranty and I only put about 7k miles per year on. So we're talking max 40k miles in 5 years

What I'd like to determine is this. If I buy a CPO 2025 or 2026 RRS SE Dynamic or P530 Autobiography with less than 10k miles, drive it 4 years, do oil changes at 5k miles, and put less than 50k miles on it total, what kind of reliability am I really looking at?

Better same or worse than: Mercedes, BMW, Porsche, Audi ?? I6 or the BMW V8?

You might think 'who cares' if its under warranty but we will take 2-3 cross country road trips so reliability is still very important. I find the RRS super appealing but don't want a bad experience. BTW last 2 cars are an X5 and (current) GLE53, with zero issues.