r/pcgamingtechsupport

So last weekend I had to move my computer to another room that hadn't been renovated and had old wall sockets with no grounding connectors. Started it up and it seemed to run fine but about 20 ish minutes into browsing the internet my computer hard-froze. I had to unplug it (holding down the power button wouldn't turn it off and the PSU switch was kinda unreachable) and it happened a second time. I reinstalled the graphics drivers and had no issues for the next couple of days.

Monday comes around, it starts happening again... while gaming this time. I must've had like 10 hard freezes before I realized the socket had no proper ground, so I moved it to a newer socket that, despite having grounding pins still wasn't properly grounded. Had some more hard freezes (this time both screens turning black) and doing some research I thought I'd check if the graphics card pins had melted or something. Opened the case, unplugged the card and plugged it again. It's been working like that ever since... Hoooowever...

Games that used to run well... still run, but at lower FPS. I've been playing Arc Raiders and Crimson Desert on max settings, and both games used to run flawlessly with zero FPS drops always at 90 (the cap I had set) and now CD is averaging 65 and Arc Raiders spikes to the low 40s some times. I ran stress tests with OCCT and didn't see anything weird. It's been bugging me all week and checking again I've realized that despite the load, memory usage and wattage varying... My GPU's clock speed is like frozen. Doesn't change by a single digit.

Given that these games are still running even with RTX on and that I've had no artifacts or any other issues... I have the feeling something might've corrupted software-wise. Maybe a delusional thought, it's an expensive card I really don't wanna have to replace...

My system specs:

GPU: MSI RTX 4080 Ventus 16GB

CPU: Intel Core i5-12600K

Motherboard: Gigabyte Z690 UD DDR4

RAM: Kingston FURY Beast DDR4 3200 MHz 8GB CL16 (x4)

PSU: Corsair RM 850W 80 Plus Gold full modular

Edit: Forgot to specify that the first time I ran OCCT the clock speeds were only slightly below the advertised frequency on MSI's website. I forget the exact number but something like 2450mhz. Right now it's at 2745mhz.

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This screenshot is running Crimson Desert on max settings with RTX, no DLSS and no path tracing in a heavily populated area.

When I'm playing certain games my 1% lows tend to drop from a consistent 60 down to 40 for a split second, enough to cause a noticeable stutter. Just wondering if there is anything I can do to fix this, I would attach a clip but I don't see the option to, my specs are Ryzen 5 5600x, 4070 super and 32gb of ddr4 ram, if you need any more information just let me know.

UserBenchmark test results: https://www.userbenchmark.com/UserRun/72902970

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I've had a gaming laptop for about 18 months and it has no damage history (plus I bought it brand new) and the last couple days, it has been overheating and the fans have been going crazy whenever I play any game no matter the quality (ex: Madden 26) and I believe it could be thermal paste issues, but I'm not sure and I would like to know anyone's opinion on what the issue could be

Let me preface by saying im not tech savvy. by luck of god i ended up with a new Victus gaming laptop. Im new to playing games in general. I have been playing Palia through steam with my switch joycon controllers. I know the issue is through the computer and not Steam for sure. Every time I open up the laptop to play again, it will show both the L and R controllers as being remembered, but the lights on them continue blinking up and down as if theyre trying to pair, and they never do. i have to remove both of them and then repair them in order to play again. is there anything that can be done about that? Its not a massive issue but it is definitely annoying. thanks!

Whenever I boot up a game using EasyAntiCheat, the pop up loads to 100% and then gives me the error : "Error validating easy anti cheat code signing certificate"

I tried opening the EasyAntiCheat_Eos_Setup.exe but it only opens for a split second and then closes, even as Administrator.

My windows 11 and drivers are updated aswell

Reinstalling any game or Steam also did not help.
I almost tried every possible solution I could find online but nothing helped :/
Its been happening since february and I dont know why

System Specs:

Motherboard: Gigabyte B850M Gaming X AX (WIFI 6E)

BIOS Version: F9 (Updated recently)

RAM: DDR5 (Rated 6000MHz, currently running at 4800MHz base)

OS: Windows 11 (Fast Startup is OFF)

The Issue:

Every time I put the PC into Sleep Mode and try to wake it up, it fails. The PC turns on, immediately turns off, then boots up from scratch like it’s doing a full restart.

What I’ve already tried:

BIOS Update: Updated to the newest version (F9) right at the start.

Windows Settings: Fast Startup is completely disabled.

Memory Settings: Tried turning off Memory Context Restore and enabling Power Down Enable.

Voltages: Manually bumped SOC Voltage to 1.1V to see if it would stabilize the wake-up.

Platform Power: Checked ErP (already Off) and Platform Power (already Always Off).

Idle States: Changed Power Supply Idle Control to "Typical Current Idle."

The Problem Persists:

Even at the base 4800MHz speed (no overclock applied), it is still doing the "on-off-on" cycle when waking from sleep. It feels like a motherboard/BIOS communication error with the DDR5 during the power-state transition.

Anyone have any ideas, everything is brand new.

So, I am running three 1440p monitors on a 4090/Intel i7-13700K setup. However, I have been having this weird issue where if I connect my 4K60 TV as a 4th display to then drag a browser over to and watch something, the video player instantly goes very low FPS. If I then drag the same browser back over to one of the 3 1440p monitors, FPS smooths out instantly.

I use this same setup to play games on my TV as well and everything goes fine. I have checked the scaling settings in nvidia app, toggled hardware acceleration in browser, checked TV picture settings, made sure TV was set to 60 FPS in all windows and nivdia settings, the HDMI cable is rated for 4K120... nothing fixes this. I'm at a loss.

Everytime i try to launch any of the 2 division games from the epic games launcher it simply does not work I've tried nearly everything, uninstalling and reinstalling both launchers, clearing cache, changing passwords everything. I'm completely stumped and cannot get a refund so thats not an option. I will click "install and it will launch ubisoft connect and it'll load saying "Logging in..." and never do anything.

EDIT: FIXED

I turned off enhanced sync and downloaded the latest driver for my gpu, seems to have fixed it. If you have any more tips for a first time prebuilt owner I’d be happy to hear them!

Fairly new to PC gaming and recently got my first prebuilt desktop, used a laptop for a little over a year and never ran into this problem until I got my desktop. I’ll be playing games and see that I’m losing frames but my steam overlay will show a steady 60 frames with no drops. This happens over every game and isn’t game specific. I’m unsure of what this could be or how to fix it, any help would be appreciated.

My specs are:

AMD Ryzen 7 7700X

AMD Radeon RX 9070 XT

32GB DDR5

1TB NVMe SSD

Running on a 60hz smart TV instead of a monitor, did the same for my laptop and had no issues.

I have been having frequent random stutters when playing rainbow six siege on my PC for a while now, it feels like no matter what I do, the stutters may go away for a bit, but they always come back. To list specs I have a Radeon RX 9070 XT, AMD 9600x CPU, and 32 GB of DDR5 Ram. Some other weird problems that I have been having in game is that my PC drops from 240 frames in the menu to less than 100 whenever i move my mouse across the battle pass tiers in the battle pass menu, I also will have a lag spike sometimes when I throw a grenade in game. It's only rainbow six siege that does this. It's really bothering me. Let me know if I need to provide any more info.

UserBenchmark Link: https://www.userbenchmark.com/UserRun/72902630

I just got a brand new charger and the battery life on it, from what I checked, is almost brand new, I already changed the port twice. When the charger is plugged in it's constantly at 0%, if I take it out it shuts off without 30 seconds. Yesterday by some miracle it managed to charge and get to ≈20%, before stopping and going back to the nice constant 0%. What do I do?

Ok so I use windows 11. For headphones i use wired ones samsung on front aux jack on my pc case. before cleaning my pc everythinh was ok but after cleaning it now whenever i boot up pc i have x next to sound icon on bottom right corner and I have to go to device manager and scan for hardware changes in order for x to go away and audio to work. i tried reinstalling realtek audio device several times and adjusting cables inside the pc but nothing works.

My middle button (the scroll wheel as a button) isn't working even though it's new, it's only been here for about two months now. It's been working perfectly fine but very recently the wheel itself started to make some friction when I scroll it, and the middle button started to register the click only when I click deep enough. If anyone knows how to fix it, please help me out. (No, I can't take advantage of any warranty 'cuz I've bought it from another country)

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Hey everyone, I’m experiencing a weird display issue on my Lenovo Legion Pro 5i and wanted to get some insight before I commit to a repair or a full panel replacement.

The Issue:

• The Symptom: There’s a faint horizontal flicker/line across the screen.
• Refresh Rate Variable: The issue is very visible at 60Hz, but it completely disappears when I switch to 165Hz.
• Stable Image: The line is present even on static screens and isn't tied to GPU load (happens on desktop).
• The "Screenshot Test": Screenshots and screen recordings look perfectly clean when viewed on another device.
• External Display: Connecting via HDMI to an external monitor works perfectly—no lines or flicker there.
• Physical Check: Moving the hinge doesn't affect the line at all, making me doubt it's a loose eDP cable.

What I’ve Already Tried:

• Drivers: Performed a clean install of both Intel and NVIDIA drivers using DDU.
• Settings: Disabled Variable Refresh Rate (G-Sync), Panel Self Refresh, and Display Power Savings in the Intel Graphics Command Center.
• BIOS/Safe Mode: Interestingly, the lines are not visible in the BIOS or Safe Mode (which usually defaults to 60Hz).

The Dilemma: My warranty just expired. Since 165Hz works, I’m using that as a workaround for now, but I'm worried the panel is physically failing (T-Con or gate driver issue).

Has anyone seen a Legion panel fail specifically at lower refresh rates while staying stable at high ones? Is this a sign of an impending total display failure, or could it still be a deep-seated firmware/BIOS timing issue?

Thanks for any help!

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