r/n54

hey yall, so i previously had made a thread about this, currently the car is having a crank no start issue, actually it only cranks on a charger because thats the only time its got enough voltage to crank.. to start from the beginning as quick as i can, one day i was driving to work, pushed it a little bit on the hwy but nothing too hard at all, as soon as the car came to a stop to back into my spot it was pissing coolant, a decent amount too, checked the reservoir and didnt look like it dropped a bit, checked for leaks throughout the day or any signs of a broken hose, couldnt find anything, drove fine no leaks until 1-2 days later i was on the way home from work and i was passing a car, not even building a full lb of boost and the car just fell on its face and died, luckily was able to get it pulled over and stopped with almost 0 brakes or steering and got pulled home.

so after the codes i was getting i was just gambling on it being the main dme relay so i got one and swapped it on up at the dme box, nothing, so i started testing x60001 connector pins 26 and 15 and then checked wire 1 and 2 on the back of the main relay, along with the rest of the wires just to make sure, from what i believe everything seems fine.. going to do a recheck today while car is on charger since that is the only way it will stay at 12v.. not even minutes of it being off a charger and it will drop to 5-6v and everything starts going crazy, headlights flickering and fuses in the junction box ticking like crazy until it just completely drains and dies. I did check fuse 37 and 4 in the glovebox with ignition on and they tested good.

I grabbed the battery from my moms mini cooper, which is the same size and everything as my current battery, still wouldn’t start and brought back 2acb and 2acc codes immediately after clearing, the one thing i didnt do was check to see if that battery also drains like mine does but it was plugged in for a bit while i messed around and it didnt die. So i do think my battery is bad but its only 2 years old so something has to be failing and draining my power..
it cant just be the battery because even with a good working one it still had issues, granted i didnt register that one i tried but you only have issues with unregistered batteries after a few days or so from my experience.

Just extremely lost, its been close to a month now i believe that the car has just sit in our shop at home and i need to get it back running. I am no diagnostics mechanic i can just figure easy shit out and pull off/install parts.. so this is really throwing me.

Any help is appreciated, miss my baby🤣

so finally dug into my motor this was stuck up behind the phaser and another piece was i cleaned it all out really good. Spun the motor over a couple times to make sure it was all clean. Make sure there's nothing in the valley. i had code p0015 now after cleaning the belt out i get 2a99 mind u i bought it from some guy for 1000 bc the belt got sucked in and he had all the work dont in the pics none of the phasers look messed up they're actually matching the target points on a scan tool. what do u think it is? also cam lobes look fine from what i could see

I recently upgraded my turbos to the pure600, installed inlets, 7.5 FMIC and the outlets. I also tuned it to MHD Stage 2+ OTS. I notice that the turbos build boost and everything, but the transmission seems to be hesitant sometimes and others times it’s perfectly fine. I have records of the Previous owner servicing the transmission fluid and filter. Any advice?

Just bought a very good e93 335i , bonestock and just a map . Has 106000km on it , but does not make any boost and doesn’t throws errors. That’s the Sound on Idle , I don’t hear something suspicious

The return tube to turbo inlet(s) were supposed to be blocked off when using an aftermarket charge pipe with a BOV.. humbly asking if this makes sense or does it even make a difference. TIA

I have a question I don’t know if someone can help me. To keep it simple I did a N54 swap in a bmw E30. My Evap system is completely deleted so the Evap port on my throttle body was just capped. Second my turbo Inlets were deleted and I am running mesh filters directly on my turbos so no inlet pipes. Because of this I’m not sure where to route my PCV hose off the back of the valve cover (the one with the flapper that usually goes into the inlet). Do you think I can route it directly to the throttle body port or will boost blow up my valve cover? If I leave that flapper to atmosphere will that cause a vacuum leak ? Right now after completing my swap when I accelerate slowly or coast the car is kind of bucking so I’m wondering if it’s a boost leak. I smoke tested the whole system and it’s like the hose on the back is open to atmosphere. Thanks for the help I’m very confused with this PCV setup. As you can see if I smoke tested inside valve cover it comes straight out the PCV without building pressure. I have a new BMS PCV valve installed too.

Please help me find out what parts I am looking at specifically the broken ones lol thanks!!

i have code p0015 and it happened from the belt getting sucked up i bought it from a customer for 1000$ it had like 8g worth of work just done to it to try to fix it that is in pics but i have a feeling the phaser are messed up so i have all the new stuff to do it this weekend but are tech said it needed a new cam what do u guys think ive been driving it problem has not got worse or better some times it take like 30s for limp mode to kick in also failed phaser test also multiple oil changes have been done and a motor flush didn't see no flakes 

I believe my pump is being underpowered causing high fuel trims mainly under load. Not sure though. I do have a code for alternator missing, lights flicker, and battery don’t really get recharged. I bought a new regulator we’ll see when it comes in. Any takes?

Can you help me identify the part in the 1st picture it’s the one that looks like it was cut by the crank pulley thank you guys

I’ve changed fuel sensor but it didn’t clear the codes🤦🏽‍♂️

What should I focus to fix? I also experience a little longer than usual crank time and hesitation when accelerating from 0 - 20 mph

What could this be? I was told it was because my alternator was bad.