My stock hot end recently died (it got clogged when the bowden tube was shoved into the extruder) so I swapped it out with a micro swiss all metal hot end. I didn't think to swap out the extruder to direct drive (possibly the next upgrade?) but I can't seem to dial in the settings and I'm getting a TON of stringing.

I'm using Creality slicer 4.8. My print speed is at 80, I've upped the temp to 210, and I've tried various settings for retraction, ranging from 1mm to 3mm in .5mm increments, changing the retraction speed from anywhere from 30-80mm/s, turning on/off retract at layer change, etc.

My retraction extra prime amount is 1, retraction minimum travel is 1.5, max retraction count100, minimum extrusion window is 2.

I'm at my wits end and I'm either replace the entire hot end unit with a stock one and roll back the settings, or bite the bullet and get a direct drive and fiddle with all the settings again. I've tried the retractioncalibration.com site and run all their tests, but I'm not sure how to decipher the tower and it just looks like a stringy mess no matter where it is on the tower.

If anyone can offer help, it'd be greatly appreciated!

After a lot of trial and error, I finally got my Ender-5 Plus with Creality 4.2.2 motherboard working correctly with the Creality Sonic Pad.

There’s almost no proper information online for this exact setup, so I wanted to share the solution for anyone stuck like I was.

IMPORTANT

When flashing firmware from the Sonic Pad:

DO NOT select Ender-5 Plus

Instead select:

Ender-3 V2 Neo

This uses compatible firmware for the Ender-5 Plus with the 4.2.2 board and allows the printer to boot and communicate correctly.

Steps

1. Flash firmware from Sonic Pad

On the Sonic Pad:

• Add printer
• Choose:
  • Manufacturer: Creality
  • Model: Ender-3 V2 Neo
• Generate firmware
• Flash the printer normally using SD card / USB depending on your setup

After reboot, the printer should connect to the Sonic Pad.

2. Replace printer.cfg

After the first successful connection:

• Open the Sonic Pad web interface
• Go to configuration files
• Replace the generated printer.cfg with the one attached below

My config already includes:

• Ender-5 Plus tuning
• Correct board settings
• Working motion config
• Resonance sensor configuration
• PID tuning values
• Personal macros/customizations

NOTE:
You will need to adjust:

• PID values
• Probe offsets
• Resonance sensor settings

because those are specific to my machine.

Why this works

The Sonic Pad currently does not properly provide a dedicated firmware profile for:

>

But the Ender-3 V2 Neo firmware profile is compatible enough to work correctly with the same MCU family.

Hardware

My setup:

• Ender-5 Plus
• Creality 4.2.2 board
• Sonic Pad
• Klipper
• Resonance sensor enabled

Hopefully this saves someone a few hours (or days).

If people want, I can also share:

• working macros
• input shaper setup
• pressure advance values
• accelerometer mounting solution
• optimized speed settings

Here you can download my printer.config with right settings: https://pastebin.com/G0KjDfNS

Happy printing

Good evening,
I recently acquired a ender 5 plus from my collage because they didn’t want to invest the money into it to make it work better. I want to get the mercury one mod but I don’t want to do that yet so what upgrades can I add to my Ender 5 before I do the mercury one. I do know I need a new board and have plans to get the manta M8P so I can run klipper. It also already has a textured build plate rather than the class one. I’m just wondering what would be a good in between mod for the ender 5 and the mercury one mod. Thank you.

I’ve recently finished the Endorphin3D upgrade, along with a ceramic heater on my hot end.
Now I want to bring my bed heating in line with the rest of the machine.

Googling hasn’t helped me so I’m asking here.

What do I need to upgrade my bed heater? I’m using a BTT Octopus board with the OEM heatbed mosfet and a Creality PEI.

Open to any suggestions. TIA