Light switch is crackling. Major concern?
Old light switch not being used making crackling noise after shower. Major safety concerns? Rental apartment
Old light switch not being used making crackling noise after shower. Major safety concerns? Rental apartment


it cost 1 dollar to make i would just diy it at this point



Power is feeding box 1 with an incoming 12-2. Box one feeds switches to sconces, a light fixture, etc, and additionally continues out via a 12-3 to box 2 (power to red and black). In box 2 I took the now 12-3 incoming power to two different switches (black to one switch red to another) for independent switching of a fixture (light and fan). ((Inside box 2 is also a junction between two 12-3 that enters then Leaves the box.))
The switches then leave on a 12-3 to the fixture box where the wires are fully disconnected, awaiting the fixture install.
The problem:
When either switch is flipped, both wires in box 2 show current (specifically they set my tester off as hot), as if the current is heading out from each switch and is joined somewhere down the line...but down the line is only the fixture box... I'm stumped.
Note: Previously the switches worked to independently power the old light and fan of previous fixture separately, but this thing was old and rusted and I don't want to use it as a control. this was more or less the previous setup. We never noticed one of the thrown switches inadvertently powering both the fan and light simultaneously as the current setup seems to suggest will happen.
I don't see any cuts or exposures, and I can't think of what else to troubleshoot. I'm assuming the problem must be at or ahead of the switches in box two...but idk. Help!
TYIA, social worker by trade.

I have a relative that trusts their electrician. I've seen all his work and it looks well done. Then this just happened. It's the transfer switch for a generator. It looks to me like that cable took a massive amount of current and could have electrocuted someone touching the panel. They said it was hot to the touch and smelled like baking soda. I assume it's a ground line but people here would know better than me.
Is this a major failure and a bad install? I am concerned for their well being but they've called the same company that installed it to repair it.



The previous owner was an electrician (not sure if that is relevant). Any advice welcome and appreciated!
I'm building a handrail to my Star Wars themed theater, and I'm making it out of frosted acrylic tubing with LED lights inside (like two lightsabers touching end to end).
I'm planning to install 3-way switches into the hilts of each of the sabers, which will run a single outlet where the LED lights will be plugged in.
So the thought is you can flip on the saber at the top of the stairs, then flip it off at the bottom with the other switch.
I have the concept of how to wire a 3-way switch, but I'm struggling with making sure I'm mapping it appropriately to power an outlet.
Anyone able to help me visualize this? Or- am I over-engineering this with running everything to an outlet? It seemed to be the simplest solution considering the DC to AC issue with standard LED lights.

I would like to replace this outdoor light but it looks like the connections are inside the roof soffits? Definitely not properly installed and no housing box. How do I replace this to a new light safely?

there are two sets of wires here, so I only need to cap off one of these because the other belongs to the sister base board and they were wired up together, BUT the exact breaker can't be located (the main is off) so I'm wondering how safe these are going to be once capped and tapped if I have to turn the breakers back on. do I tuck them back into the floor or will they burn my house down?

Today our power went out and it turns out this socket busted, any idea what could have caused this? How worried should I be about the apartment burning down? Any help greatly appreciated

Hey guys. Not sure if this is the right place to post. I’m wanting to mount a TV on this wall and I’m no electrician so I figured i should check. With these outlets on the wall am I safe to drill in between them? My understanding is that’s where a stud is and my stud finder picks up electrical even between the boxes and up about 6-8”. Any thoughts/suggestions?


There are two sets of romex that feed the box, I located the load black and connected it to the brass. The other black is connected to one of the two branch circuits on the other side. I want the outlet to always have power but it turns off when the switch is off. I know this is probably a simple fix but I like to ask for advice. I can’t find the answer online or don’t know how to word the question. Thank you!

hello! i just purchased an old desk fan made around 1937 by Robbins & Myers thinking it worked fine but it grumble when turned on, and doesnt start without a push so i opened the gearbox to clean it and it was free spinning, i turned my attention to the electric side and it turn out someone messed with the wires in the past and bypassed what i assume is a run capacitor ( correct me if im wrong)
i drew the diagram of the current wiring, you can ignore the color as im not surre about it.since all the wire are gray.
any help is greatly appreciated!
just making sure on the electrical code compliance here for an indoor lighting situation. Am trying to replace an existing LED recessed light with a wafer light. The existing recessed light has a 4" junction/light-box inside which the wires are coupled with a wire-nut-connector.
am looking to replace it with a wafer light that comes with it's own driver box that can't fit into the existing junction box and has to be removed. the wafer light's driver box houses all the wire-coupling-set up including the wire-nuts making the light/junction box redundant. Want to check if this light/junction-box is still needed to stay code-compliant or can it be removed because the wafer light also doesn't need it any more ?
I have an outdoor plug for my sump pump but it stopped working, I have confirmed that the pump still works and the original plug was in rough shape. So after replacing the outlet there is still no power to it, I am going to check the breaker to make sure that's not the issue but it seems to be in good shape. Is there anything else I can check? If possible I'd like to not have to hire an electrician.

I have a 20 space QO sub panel and want to add one in an addition. I can’t find one easily on line. I bought a 12 space panel but it only says 12 circuit, whereas the Homeline panel says 12 space 24 circuit. I also saw a 16 space QO that just had tons of wasted space in the box (same size box as a 32 or more space panel). I could get a bigger panel but I just don’t want or need that big for my addition. I really like the size of my 20 space QO panel. This should be so much easier.

Installing a new ceiling fan just as I have in the nearly 30 yrs of homeownership and helping family and friends. Turned power off at the wall switch. I know it’s better to turn off the breaker, and proceeded to remove the old fan and housing. When I got to the wiring I found two white wires intertwined. New install wants ungrounded white to go to red quick connect and grounded to go to white quick connect. When I separated the two it knocked power out after a tiny spark. Tried resetting all breakers but nothing, as it appears the circuit was interrupted when the two white wires separated. I’m lost. Any help is appreciated. Was thinking maybe intertwining the two whites again and braiding red and white from harness with wire nut but I’m not sure that is advisable. Hope the pic helps some. But I am likely calling a pro in.
Sorry if the answer is obvious. There's four lightbulbs in the room, two LED and two regular, and they all behave differently when I turn on the lightswitch. When I flip the switch, the two LED lights turn on automatically, one of them normal and bright and the other one super dim. After a second delay, the two other lightbulbs turn on but flicker the entire time that they're on. I already checked that everything is screwed on tightly, and the person who had the space before me made the comment that the flickering had been going on for awhile. Does this just sound like three bulbs going bad simultaneously or should I get someone to look at the wiring? Thank you!
Hi everyone,
I’m currently working on a power meter project and designing the hardware myself. I ran into a situation that I’d really appreciate some insight on.
For phase-to-phase voltage measurement, my circuit works fine. But when adapting it for phase-to-neutral measurement, I reused the same design and connected neutral as the reference (GND) for my board.
Here’s the issue:
When I measure between phase and neutral at the circuit breaker with the phase disconnected, I still see around ~10V on the neutral. This makes me concerned because if I tie neutral directly to my board GND, that means my whole circuit (including the microcontroller) could sit at around 10V relative to earth.
My questions:
Is this ~10V on neutral something normal (maybe due to leakage or induced voltage)?
Is it safe to use neutral as GND for my measurement circuit?
Can I use a voltage divider on the neutral before referencing it to my board GND (similar to what I did for phase measurement)?
Or should I redesign this using isolation (like a transformer or isolation amplifier)?
I want to make sure my design is both safe and reliable, so any guidance or best practices would be really helpful.
Thanks in advance!