r/diypedals

Hi all!

I released the Midynamite in August of last year. Back then, it had 3 effects: MIDI Tempo, Modify, and Transpose. The project took me 8 months, almost full-time, in which I learned quite a bit about C, STM microcontrollers, and microcontrollers in general.

My goal is for the pedal to have dozens of effects, so I came back to it in January of this year. After 3 long months, I can finally announce the release of Firmware 2.0 of the Romagnetics Midynamite. As always, the firmware is open source and available on GitHub.

Added effects:

MIDI Split with Bus 1, Bus 2, Dry and Wet send

Arpeggiator: A quick look at the picture will tell you which synth was my main inspiration

MIDI Dispatch: This was a request when I released version 1. I was happy to add it!

I didn't think development would take this long. The great thing about having more effects is how they interact, but it's also a bad thing, because testing each interaction made me want to add more functionalities. This is how I ended up adding MIDI split to the effects because I wanted to have each hand routed to different effects.

In the end, I think that the upgrade looks fine, I'll take a small break from guitar building for this spring!

I'll probably wait until the end of the year for version 3, but believe me, the update will be huge (as in 8 tracks polyphonic huge...)

Link to the GitHub Project: https://github.com/Romagnetics/Midynamite

Wiki manual: https://www.romagnetics.com/wiki/doku.php?id=manuals:midynamite:start

Youtube Playlist about the project: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rgxxZKa9RsE&list=PLuyuve38IWcI2MVRzKz436Vd0ANcMR_GL

Cheers!

Built the Abominable Electronics Hail Satan PCB that came with their Burning Church pedal candle. It’s a killer sounding fuzz and the candle smelled amazing! This was a cool concept!

Ok,

This was by far the most difficult, but rewarding, build i'v attempted thus far in my 4 months of building.

I've been getting into modulation stuff, and saw the Neurotron project on AionFX (based on the Lovetone Ring Stinger)

After looking up some demo of the Ring Stinger, I decided I had to have it.

The build was challenging, but taking my time I got the board assembled over 2 days of working on it after my day job.

The enclosure was originally going to be bright safety orange, but something in me wanted to dirty it up some...

I've worked in the geotechnical and environmental drilling industry for over 2 decades, and I've seen my fair share of control boxes that just get worn away, dirtied up by greasy hands, and that's what I wanted to do with this.

So, with the liberal application of some sand paper, exacto blades, and paint washes, I now have something that looks like it's lived a hard life in an industrial workspace.

This was also my first ever attempt at intentional weathering.

Wiring this beast up was no small feat.

Having to wire 6 signal jacks, was like shoving 10 pounds of crap in a 5 pound sack. But, with some patience, I got there in the end with what I think are great results.

To to my complete and utter surprise, it just worked on the first go. No futzing around with trying to troubleshoot anything, which was SO rewarding

This pedal is wild, and wonderful, and weird in the best of ways..

From dialing in some subtle octavish fuzz to a complete and total overwhelming synthy oscillator drone, this thing can do it all.

I have a used and in need of repair Boss FV-60 on the way in the mail that I'll be refurbishing and utilizing to have VCO expression control. So, I'm excited for that.

Hope you all like it!

Be safe, take care, and Hail Yourself!

I have a couple of these NJM2073D chips lying around and had seen them cited as similar to a LM386. These dual op amp chips are normally used as stereo amplifiers or in a btl configuration, but is there any reason I wouldn't be able to use one 2073 in place of the two LM386's in this schematic for an Acapulco Gold clone?

NJM2073 Datasheet: https://www.mouser.com/ds/2/294/NJM2073\_E-275459.pdf

JRC386 Datasheet: https://www.datasheetcafe.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/05/JRC386D.pdf

I know the real answer is to just go for it, but I thought I'd field some opinions on here while I put together the layout.

I recently just got the LED working on this so I tested this on my guitar but I still get no sound from the pedal. Am I attaching the alligator clips wrong? If the polarity is different than the standard, how do I test which wire goes to what on a multimeter? The left side is my input cable and the right side is my output one

I made this to be raffled off for a local music market day in Brisbane, with artwork being made by the graphic designer of that organisation (@mktempler on instagram, or @casualsequencegroup for the event itself). Vase is an old australian amp brand who were building all sorts of sound reinforcement gear back in the 60's & 70's, and this is basically a 1:1 jfet recreation of their Trendsetter 40 combo. 2 channels plus a footswitchable tremolo (mislabelled as Vibrato, as all things were back then). the Vibrato in the original amp is actually modulating the power tube bias, which i couldn't quite recreate well enough for my liking so I ended up using an EA tremolo instead (still an aussie design!)

This one has taken a very long time. The idea was to build some neat digital features around a PT2399 circuit, getting modern usability into an analog-ish delay without losing the PT2399 character. Themed around the Hat Man. Did the artwork myself and I'm pretty happy with how it turned out. 

Features:

-Tempo can be set with the knob or by tap, whichever was adjusted last

-Smooth rate display using alternating PWM on the eye LEDs. Really proud of this one. It uses the PT2399's clock out in a closed loop so the eyes track the actual delay time accurately

-Fully separated ‘analog’ and digital stages with isolated regulated 5V rails and ferrite decoupling, so the MCU activity stays out of the audio path. Getting the noise floor low was important to me

-Unique modulated repeats (two voicings, sine and sawtooth)

-Latching relay true bypass

-Holding the tap switch enters Nightmare Mode, a seasick modulation effect. The eyes go wonky to match

-Settings are stored in memory and recalled on startup

Demo in the comments! Cheers.

Hello all,

I hope someone can give me a second set of eyes on this.

I got my first custom PCBs in the mail today of a RAT based circuit that I've modded.

I put one together this evening, but have apparently borked something up that causes me to have no output at all.

I confirmed continuity of the signal path on the boards according to the PCB design, I'm confident there's not a manufacturing error and that whatever error is there is caused by me doing something wrong somewhere.

I did prove with the input line of the breadboard and was able to get a very faint signal of my guitar when touching pin 2 of the Volume pot, but nowhere else.

The only output I get is at about 3/4 rotation on the volume pot I here a distinct hum (like an unisolated power supply hum), but otherwise it's dead quiet until 3/4, and immediately after that 3/4 position.

I don't have a signal generator to inject a signal at various spots to see where the trouble may lie, but I did take voltage readings of all components (see those two last images)

I'm concerned about the voltages at the OP07 pins, as they seem off to me, but also that I see no voltages at all on the volume pots 3 legs.

I had this circuit breadboarded, and it worked well.

Oddly, one of the 3mm LEDs glowly dimmly when the rotary switch is on that clipping stage.. I wouldn't have assumed it would get enough voltage, and it definitely didn't when I had it breadboarded.

Any help is appreciated.

Here she is - my first turret build, using plans from Amplified Parts.

I had left over turrets from my in progress JCM Mini build, so I figured what the heck. I made the turret board myself with left over 3mm acrylic I had laying around. Not sure on the long term durability, but it seems to work for now. GE diodes are D9Es.

Enclosure came from Tayda (silver hammer) and the name plate is anodized aluminum that I ran through my laser.

After a rookie mistake I shouldn’t have made (wired one of the jacks to the footswitch wrong), she fired up and sounds great.

Couple things I’ll do differently next time: pots higher on the front, switch further left, and all the wiring on the top not the bottom of the board.

Just got into pedal mods/DIY after fixing a Harben Audio Octave Fuzz. I’m planning on building a couple Bazz Fuzzes as gifts, but as usual, I am diving into the deep end on a new hobby and trying to learn as much as I can and setting myself up for failure and eventual de-motivation. I found homewrecker.com and wanted to do the v3 Bazz fuzz, but I realized that this circuit is so highly modifiable, I wanted to play with it.

My plan is a 3P3T rotary switch with different emitter/collector resistors and different caps soldered to the lugs for each position, as tame/fuzz/chaos. Bias pot (possibly with in-series resistor to keep the chaos setting from bottoming out) to get me from dying battery sputter to self-oscillating craziness. I figure that will be the trickiest thing to get right.

Anyways, I want the pedal to essentially be as-shown, but likely in a wider enclosure for ease of wiring/soldering... and for a more prominent frog lol. I’m wondering if I am being too ambitious with this as a first real pedal project. I do plan to breadboard and experiment to make sure everything works before I lay it down, but was wondering if anyone had some tips for an overly-ambitious first-time builder.

I think I have read enough about the base circuit to understand how it works, but not 100% sure how to incorporate my 3 way switch effectively, and would like to see if anyone knew of a circuit I could study to avoid any issues with implementation. Thanks!

Building a rat clone for my first ever pedal project, and decided it needed something cooler than just a metal box. Picked up this vintage metronome at goodwill for $5 instead and I think its coming along well! (masking tape is temporary of course). Wanted to go for the clear acrylic backplate to make it a sort of weird hybrid between the vintage analog look and the early 2000’s clear electronics trend.

This is a stripped-down Klon-ish boost/drive thing (intended to sound like my implementation of a Clown Centurion, the Forever Boner, on one specific setting, but with fewer parts) into a Big Muff thing (specifically The Wreck of the Ella Fitzgerald, a dylan159 Bigger Muff circuit).

More info here: https://dunningkrugerfx.com/aggressively-disinterested-xl

Helped a friends granddad clear out his house. He was a collector of electronics so we grabbed all the good stuff. This is what was left over after sorting the best components into organizers. The Electrolytics are waiting to be tested, but probably mostly trash. There are some really cool foil caps tho!

Also got some rf ge transistors and selenium rectifiers out of it! And mercury switches with a vulgar amount of liquid metal inside xD