https://reddit.com/link/1ssre10/video/33mkay4rvrwg1/player
Here's a quick video showing how you can make angled tenons. It's something fun you can practice with scrap wood until you're good at it.
Greetings, the plan is to make some diy custom wooden side panels for my mixer! I have a tascam m-106 mixer that has wooden side panels on it! The problem is that the 106 mixer is smaller in size than the m-216 mixer so I’ll need to make new ones but I’m not sure what measurements I should saw out my wooden piceces in! And what steps I should take
I’ve included some photos to make the task go easier
Picture 1) tascam m-106 with actual wooden side panels
my tascam m-216 that has no side panels at all
measurements for side panels from the tascam m-200 series
I want to build a custom aquarium cabinet out of 3/4" plywood, but I'm not very good at taking measurments or building furniture. I think it would be within my ability to assemble a cabinet if someone just provided me with a written list of all materials and cuts needed, along with assembly instructions.
Is there anyone out there willing to create a simple aquarium cabinet design for me? I don't know what a custom build plan would cost, but I'd be willing to pay for a design. It doesn't even need to be computerized, you can hand write and draw it for all I care :) I just need someone who actually knows what they are doing to plan it and dumb it down for me, especially since the tank is 40 gallons and ~500lbs. I've found photos of someone else's DIY build that is exactly what I'm looking for, but they didn't lay out their measurments, so I do have inspiration photos that would make this quick work for someone that knows how to build a cabinet.
Has anyone built a tenoning jig using Matchfit dovetail clamps? Is it even a good idea?
I have some WWGA plans that have you making a super complex clamping rig out of wood and hardware. I think I can refactor them to use the Matchfit clamps. Just curious if anyone else has.
I do need to cover the back gaps, add sliding doors, and add a cleanable floor. I already plan on making her her own hides.
Sharing the SketchUp file for a workbench I built last summer. Simple design — half lap joints with through-bolts, no glue, unplaned timber. Made it tall for working with power tools. Two diagonal braces at ~45° for racking resistance.
Most cuts done with a circular saw, trickier joints with a pull saw, cleaned up with a chisel and rasp.
Download the SketchUp file here
Happy to answer any questions about the design.
Woodworking Plan available and full YouTube video here! https://youtu.be/y-vSrQhosIE?si=byh8pBJABWR2dK1a
12 stainless hotel pans drop flush into the top. Works as a charcuterie cart, taco bar, grazing table, whatever. Open shelving below, locking casters underneath.
The pan cutouts are the interesting part. One MDF template, test fit a pan, then router the same hole 12 times. About $135 in lumber. Finishes at 49.5 inches long, counter height.
Happy to answer questions.
I am building this beer bar for my wedding and I know that I am going to use Medium Density Overlay (MDO) but I cannot decide what my thickness should be. 3/8ths, 1/2 in, or 3/4 in? What would be thick or too thin? What thickness would likely warp over time?
Also MDO has an option to have either both sides treated or one side treated. What would be best for longevity but also be cost effective…
I would love to have it portable and foldable with hinges on the sides so any recommendations on the style of hinges or treatment would be appreciated.
Smaller pieces cut at angles, glued, then you cut the full curve out using a plywood template. Make the template use it for cutting out the arch, for cutting the dowel holes, and also for cutting the ends of the arch. Took me a while to figure that part out.
Pin nails keep the peices from sliding while the clamps go on. They land outside the cutaway area so it doesn't matter.
Round dowels connect the two arch faces. Lattice panels on the sides, posts in concrete.
About $400 in lumber.
Hi! I’m going to be trying my hand at restraining wood for the first time and need to figure out what color stain this is so I can make the rest match it. It seems like maybe Walnut?
I am working on a shave horse and would like some opinions.
My main concern in the hinge where the arm for the clamping jaw will pivot.
The bridge (work support) feels too thin (5/8") to drill the hinge hole directly through so I a considering gluing two pieces to the underside of the bridge and running a 5/8" dowel through them that will serve as the hinge.
My main concern is if the butt joint will hold up to the pressure of being the hinge of the fulcrum?
I could screw it on but I'd prefer to avoid fasteners.
See the photo for a rough look at what I'm considering.
Designing the next version of this DIY backyard playhouse.
Already has a climbing wall, wave slide, secret hatch, enclosed fort room.
What did 7 year old you desparately want that you never got?
The arch looks like the hard part. It kind of is. But its not bent wood. Smaller peices cut at angles, glued up, then you cut the full curve out of the solid blank. End up with a 3 inch thick arch.
Pin nails just keep the pieces from sliding while the clamps go on. They go outside the area you cut away later so it doesnt matter.
I wantedto use 2 inch round dowels to connect the two arch faces. The square or rectangular ones seated is a total pain in the ass.
Lattice panels on the sides, hog wire fence on both sides, posts in concrete. More beginner friendly than it looks.
I had a blast building this floating picnic table last summer. From the initial idea, to the prototype, to refining the design and eventually turning it into plans, it ended up being one of my favourite projects of cottage season. On the first build I attached a trolling motor just to see what it could do, and it definitely turned a few heads on the lake. What do you guys think?
If you want more information you can find it here: https://www.etsy.com/ca/listing/4464046697/floating-picnic-table-plans-pdf-diy-dock
I’m making entryway cabinet for shoe storage with a 18” wide hard maple bench top. Instead of doing stretchers then attaching the bench top to the stretchers, can I just make dados into the bottom of the bench top?
It made sense to me when I designed it in sketchup but my dad seems to think I’m insane… But can’t say why it wouldn’t work.
Thanks in advance!
These are some of the free plan libraries I'm looking at...
I found these, but not specifically endorsing anything, still trying to parse for the higher quality options.
Lmk if there are any you use or if any of my list stand out from the rest
Edit: I just looked up all the woodworking YouTubers I follow (it's a lot) and basically everyone has plans but the only one I found that offers free plans I could find is Who's The Voss. Added that to the list just now.
Edit: I remember 731 woodworks in a recent video just talked about free plans that helped him in a big way some time ago when he was tight on cash. Was able to find his exact words in the video but I'm not sure of the spelling so apologies if I got this wrong: Jay Bates. I think Jays Custom Creations looks like what he was talking about so I added that to the list. (Checked his About page on his website but didn't see his name spelled out anywhere)
Edit: it's been a few days since originally posting and I spent time exploring each option. A paired down list of my favorites is here
Hello, I work for a manufacturing company who sells parts for doors, windows and trims. Recently, we started a new line of product that gets wrapped in vinyl, requires dip treatment with Kop coat and then painted.
During our first trial runs we encountered that the kop coat residue causes fish eyes during the paint curing process and the engineers and myself attempted to find a solution to the issues at the paint booth. the most successful was rinsing the vinyl with water after dip then using an air knife to knock the water beads off (a process which has massive potential to produce parts in mass efficiently and can be improved with automated machinery). This was months ago, now we are about to go into full mass production and the engineers have decided that rinsing with water is too much of a risk due to mildew and fungus (will cause major legal issues if someone were to get sick).
Kop Coat includes water repellant chemicals and fungicides. If we are not using insane water pressure, then theoretically we should not have to worry about fungus as the water will not penetrate exposed wood on the backside that is already soaked with kop coat solution and is mainly sprayed on the A surface which has no wood exposed. Does anyone else think the engineers are just making guesses to save face and not have repercussions fall on them?
I am looking for responses from anyone who has experience in the door and window manufacturing field as well as sources that point out processes that ensure properly treated wood. Instead of rinsing, they'd prefer each part gets wiped dry with a shop rag after dip, which means wiping hundreds to thousands of parts every week (almost impossible without two shifts or overtime) residue does not get completely absorbed by the cloth, just smeared all over the part.
I am not able to provide pictures since these parts are recognizable and I could get fired for reaching out this way and exposing our processes. Ideas/suggestions welcome.
Tutorial on Youtube: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HPhSEJpiZ84&t=60s