
Exhaust and ecu tuner worth it?
2020 with 3.3k miles. Like the bike overall but really disappointed in the lack of low end torque. Running 13/48 gearing. Just wondering if the exhaust and tuner are worth the money or just get a bigger bike.

2020 with 3.3k miles. Like the bike overall but really disappointed in the lack of low end torque. Running 13/48 gearing. Just wondering if the exhaust and tuner are worth the money or just get a bigger bike.
As shown in the video the bike has a slight bog/lag on low end or when blipping. My thoughts are the fuel pump is sounding off, took it to my local shop and they charged me 100$ said it was the air filter needing more oil creating a lean condition. Get the bike back and it’s doing the exact same as before. Anyone know the fix or have similar issues?
Posted a week or so about swingarm damage and bearings. I patched the damage with JB weld steel stick and got a new chain slider (cheaper eBay one) and bottom roller installed. The JB weld should serve as a good “indicator” for when the chain starts to contact the swingarm again, preventing further wear in to the swingarm.
Completely disassembled the needle bearings in the linkage and regressed (along with swingarm bearings). Linkage bearings had hard dried grease and likely weren’t even rolling.
Cleaned, aligned, and tightened chain. I eyeballed the alignment and ended up with 1/2 notch tighter on the RH side than LH side. I spun the rear wheel with the chain on to gauge the alignment. I could pinpoint the point where the chain changed from angling left vs right, so I feel good about the alignment.
Back together now; next up is fresh fork oil and the I’ll tune in the sag and rebound compression. Should be out on the trails in a couple weeks to see how she rides.
I’m going to look at a 2018 tomorrow, just wondering what potential problems I should look out for on these bikes. Has 9k miles
Ordered a vortex 13 tooth front and a vortex 47 tooth rear. As well as a 112 link D.I.D x ring chain. Everything is 520 pitch and is supposed to fit the wr. However I have recently read in a few places people having issues with aftermarket front sprockets and recommend running only OEM fronts. Does anyone have any advice on this? Should I be fine or just wait and order an OEM? Also what should I expect from the gearing change? The current gearing set up is the stock 13-43. My goal was to add more torque and be better on the trails but still be able to cruise at highway speeds. Any input would be appreciated!
Has anyone found a tank bag that will fit the 4.7 gallon tank?
I have not been able to find one that will fit securely.
Thanks.
Hey all! I have a 2008 wr250 that I bought used last year. It has run great but I recently changed the cam chain tensioner and checked the valves (they were in spec), since then it has struggled to stay running and will bog and die after giving it some gas after a few minutes of running. I have since changed out the fuel pump, fuel filter, fuel pressure regulator, put in a new spark plug, new battery and made sure the gas is good, l also added seafoam to the tank and ran it with the fuel cap off but the issue persists.
I had taken it to my local shop to see what they thought, they pulled it apart and initially said it may be that the throttle body and fuel injector need to be replaced and that they found the fuel was running a very low psi. Later they said it was most likely the fuel pump and not necessarily the throttle body/fuel injector. I got it home and swapped out the fuel pump for a $30 one from Amazon but it is still having the same issue.
I can get it started from cold easily, it will run for about 2 minutes at idle and with gas but after that if I give it gas and let go of the throttle it immediately cuts off. It then struggles to get started again and will keep turning over the starter motor to no avail. If I turn off the key and restart to let the fuel pump prime it will start up again but only run for the 2 minutes before dying again.
I'm at a bit of a loss, I can swap out the throttle body if necessary but was curious if anyone else has had this problem and if there is anything else I should check first. I'm not an expert but I am willing to do my own work on the bike and have the service manual, any tips would be greatly appreciated!
Took some time to tear down the linkage and swingarm on my new-to-me 2015 WR. The bike has 19.5k miles on it, but was pretty well maintained. It had some chain wear on the swingarm so I decided to tear it all down to clean and lube as well replace the chain slider.
I found the bearings in the relay arm to be pretty much locked up. Looks like they had some type of plastic or rubber cage to keep the roller bearings in place? At first I thought it was dried grease or crud because it was flaking out. After removing it all it definitely seems like it was a component. The connecting rod bearings didn’t seem to have those cages or holders; whenever they are. I guess the best course of action is to replace all these bearings?
I was thinking about just cleaning them well, greasing, and reassembling without the cages/holders. Nothing is super pitted or marred IMO. Thoughts? I’d rather not spend the $130 and the hassle of pressing/punching out the old bearings. I’ve never been too good with that and I don’t have a good press to use.
Swingarm bearings had a lot of good grease in them, so I’ll clean, grease, and re-assemble. I also patched the swingarm damage with some JB weld stick to at least keep the damage at bay in case the chain makes contact more.
What would you do? Clean, grease, and re-use the needles in the bearings or buy new?
So this is the third time where I’ve lost power to my dash and starter. My signals and high beams still work (I think) but can’t turn on the bike without a bump start.
The first time it happened (last year) it was a blown fuse and a friend fixed it. This weekend my bike tipped over on a trail briefly, I picked it up, the dash was on, went to start and then it flickered out again. Power gone.
I found that again, it was another 15amp fuse that had blown — I replaced it and the dash came back on and all was fine.
But not even 5 mins after riding again and getting back on the dirt, the dash died again.
Is something pulling too much power that is blowing a fuse? Tangled wires? For context, the guy I bought it off of installed these fog lights (see photo) and a button that activates them. Could they be the issue? Too much electrical going on?
Any thoughts would be great.
I decided to visit my local moto park for some riding. I love this bike. ❤️