r/W124

i like the car even though it's neverending maintenance

Hey guys,
I need to change the motor oil in both my 260E and 190E 1.8 and don’t know which one will be the best to use…

I think that 15W-50 would be the best viscosity as I use the cars mostly from spring to autumn with only occasional drives when the weather gets nice in winter…

I want higher viscosity as I like to drive them real fast on the highway, which also means very high RPM…

Currently running Liqui Moly 10W-40 MoS2 in the 260E and MOL 10W-40 in the 190E… I always change the oil after 10 000km or a little sooner…

Thanks for your suggestions!

Hab den Wagen im Herbst gekauft und habe so viele Monate gewartet bis wir schönes und warmes Wetter haben. Das ist das perfekte Wetter für mich und meinen Wagen. :)

As you can see, there is a lot of mold in the car, but I am sure the car will be drivable by summer.

Here's a note on how I converted my 88 300TE to EFI. Should be a similar process on any K/KE-Jet CIS cars.

I kept the stock ecu intact, which is able to control the IAC valve, though I’ve had luck with my Idle staying smooth even without the IAC plugged in. I’m also still using the stock ignition (for now).

Not having the O2 sensor connected to the stock ecu will throw a check engine light, but without the stock fuel system the check engine light is pretty much useless anyway, so I unplugged mine from the cluster. You could also rewire the check engine light to be triggered by the new ecu, which is obviously a better idea.

Parts:

ECU- I’m using a Microsquirt, but there's many other options out there.

Fuel rail- TE motorsports rail with brackets. Some people do use a stock M104 rail after modifying the brackets to hold it down on an M103.

Injectors- I went to a jump yard and took a set of OEM BMW injectors from a 2011 325i. You'll want this same style with the extended tip. I also ordered a set of EV1 connectors to wire them in.

Remove the stock injectors but leave the little plastic cups in the intake manifold. The injectors seat in these. This would be a good time to replace the o-rings that seal these in the intake as well since mine were all leaking.

The Microsquirt has 2 inj banks so I’m running cyl 1 2 3 on one bank and 4 5 6 on the other which is common. Batch firing 2 squirts per engine cycle and the engine runs better than it ever has with CIS.

Fuel Pressure Regulator- Radium 3 bar.

Fuel fittings- these allowed me to connect directly to the stock fuel feed and return lines.

>Stock feed line

> M14 male to 6AN male flare

>6AN female elbow

>6AN male to 8AN orb male

> fuel rail

> 8AN orb to 6AN orb swivel

> FPR

> another 6AN female elbow

> another 6AN male to M14 male

> stock return line

Crank trigger wheel- TE motorsports kit with VR sensor. I didn't have to remove the crank pulley or harmonic balancer as this one mounts on top of the crank pulley, but it did interfere with the clutch fan (I’ll try to make a spacer to reattach the clutch fan one of these days). I may also try to source a hall effect sensor to replace the VR as its having sync loss and noise issues at high RPM.

TPS- BMW

EV1 3 wire Connector

I did have to add a 1/2" spacer underneath the throttle body to make room for the tps, and also 3d printed adapters for it to fit the stock TB. DM me for part files and I’ll try to help you out.

Wideband O2- Innovate LC-2 with Bosch LSU 4.9 sensor. Many other wideband controller options available. The sensor is ever so slightly too big to fit through that hole near the passenger’s seat, so I had to widen it just a tad.

MAP- GM generic 3 bar

IAT- generic

Coolant temp- stock sensor on the head closest to the firewall.

I also used this cheap little fuse/relay box to power the ecu, injectors, and wideband. I wired it in backwards from the diagram shown so that the 12v battery feeds the two yellow "out" wires. Then the relays trigger with ignition on. The four blue are fused power, and red wire is removed.

Added a generic cone filter to fit the 80mm neck of the throttle body. Be careful that the filter doesn’t interfere with the throttle linkage.

Hope this helps! I’d like to see our car healthier than ever and I hope to keep as many on the road as long as possible.

Got excited everytime i saw one of these in the various provinces. Definitely saw about 8 W124 but only managed to take pics of 4.

traded my first car, 1985 300TD for a newer 1992 300te. i’m 18 and it’s hard to let her go but this new beauty is super clean so it’s hard to complain.

Was told to get 5m spacers just to be safe but after a full afternoon of driving I can't tell any rubbing.

Hi All. Was replacing both flex discs, transmount and centrebearing for my e220 w124.082. Noticed the u joint was notchy. Asked a drive shaft guy to rebuild the u joint. He said the yoke to the u joint is no good. I sourced a shaft from a e300. Had it lengthened and balanced but the center bearing doesnt fit as the tabs to bolt to the chassis is a different angle. The outter diameter of the bearing housing is also a little bigger and the cradle where it would bolt to will require some modification for it to fit.

The centering of the bearing seems the same. I was going to try bend the tabs and fit it with some modification to the cradle.

Has anyone had success installing an e300 driveshaft to an e220? Its difficult to source a used shaft for an e220.

there is some wear but most of it is hidden in this pic lol (you can see the top of my steering wheel is ruined)

This post is my "hello" to the group, I am one of you now (at lest I hope I can)
I do not know much about them, found this one close to me for not very much, it's in a decent state and will be taken care of by me from now on.

2nd and 3rd pics is a med kit I found inside - looks old and unused. Not sure how rare it is to find them, but it's a nice thing to have one with it.

Hey! I want to repair my sunroof and change the seal… A few days ago i heard a crack when tilting down sunroof and founde a piece in it.. Any one can suggest any seller for these?

Same with the seals, I need a seal aswell that fits and not just a scam.. so if anyone here has bought and saved from where please hit me up

Picture of the car that is going to get the love is a om606.962, 5 shiftgears manually, mechanic pump is going to be sent to Dieselmeken sweden.