r/VORONDesign

Hi all,

I'm coming at this from a less common direction in that I'm building my Voron 2.4ish printer by converting an old Formbot TRex. I have most of my design created already but I'm trying to decide on a toolhead. Here's what I'm looking for:

1. toolhead changer compatible. Presently looking at a stealthchanger but possibly with a flying garage.

2. narrow aspect to allow more toolheads in the garage

3. High temperature compatible for handling at least ASA and maybe higher spec engineering materials.

4. Lowest cost.

I know that this is probably one of those "there are three capabilities, you can have two" type choices. I'm willing to give up some advanced materials to keep costs low. The two main ones I've seen are Stealthburner and Dragonburner but I'm wondering if there are some up-and-coming toolheads I should consider.

Thanks!

Hi, I am an idiot. If there are other idiots here, please feel free to contribute.

1. Tuning properly saves a giant PITA down the line when fitting parts.

2. Proper chamber temps make strong parts- If you are unsure of your chamber temps, ABS is generally easier. ASA like the air HOT.

3. Print EXTRAS of every mission critical part. ideally assemble with the first copy to do a dry run.

If doing a conversion, take the gamble and print your motion system parts 2x over- everything that has a pulley or motor mounted to it. Probes, toolheads, extruders. Put it all in a dedicated spares bin. please please please.

signed, an idiot who is going back to leveling without a probe to reprint another klicky

I was replacing my X carriage, ended up messing the whole thing.

My A and B belt idlers are fully loose and i had equal length belt, even down to the tooth count (from what i can see in the center cavity) but can't seem to figure out how to fix this seemingly minor tension difference, tightening the idlers doesn't help much, or maybe i am doing it wrong.
I don't want to order new belts and try again since i am worried about the quality of belts that i'd receive. These have worked well for me.

I have a relatively new V2.4 with stealthburner. It has a Revo hot end. My 0.4mm nozzle is clogged. If I remove the nozzle, I can pass filament through the stealthburner, no problem. With the nozzle mounted and hot, I can get a 0.4mm needle tool in from the bottom, but it's difficult, and I can't get it in very far (1cm?). It will extrude a small amount and is them clogged again.

How do I unclog the nozzle? Take it off the hot end and use a hot air gun? soldering iron?

Hey guys, long time lurker, infrequent poster.

I'm having a really hard time choosing between a micron+ 180 and a salad fork 180 at the moment and could use some help finalising this choice.

I want to use the prusa mini build plates I already own and find this size to be perfect for 90% of what I do so that's a non negotiable but of the two, which is going to be a better machine and I guess more importantly a smoother build experience? Is there anything else out there I maybe haven't considered? Preference for kits? I'd love to hear your experiences and recommendations.

Cheers!

I have a EBB36 gen 2 ran as CAN as my toolhead board and have my filament runout sensor on PD0 and all is well until now. I am setting up a Box Turtle as USB (the MANTA M8P only has 1 CAN L and H). According to the greek gods I can not use PD0 as it is reserved for can I guess. So it throws errors in Klipper. Can anyone help me out here? I am new to all this still and have picked some stuff up but this is got me stuck.

Which mainboard are you using for 4WD/AWD, i'm looking at the LDO Leviathan 1.3, but can't seem to figure out if i need the expansion board or not, and another question, how are we felling about 0.9 step angle vs 1.8 step angle?

I'm really struggling getting firmware updated and Klipper installed. One thing I'm confused about is, i need to set menuconfig up for my Manta M8P v2, but then for the tool head I need to change it to the 2209 RP 2040.. If I change it from the Manta settings, to the tool head settings, is it breaking something with the Manta configuration?

Also, at what point is Klipper supposed to actually "work"? I'm on my second full attempt of getting this setup, the first time I got the Manta board completely updated and ready to go, the second time i did the tool head first because that seems to be what the formbot instructions want me to do? But at no point either time, was Klipper actually up and running either on the touch screen or in the IP address page. It just always says it can't connect to the mcu. Does everything need to be installed and completely set up before it shows Klipper is connected?

Thank you! I thought building it would be the frustrating part...

Right now I'm planning on having some cash transfered to a card. I'm planning on buying a Trident, formbot kit is nice but printed parts is sadly not included and separate.

Siboor on the other hand is more expensive due to mods but not technically out of my budget though from what I've heard there's been some problems in QC and delivery from them?

Self sourcing basically ramps up the price to around the siboor kit but 2wd only but that's with ballscrews.

I have some layer shift issues on my LDO 2.4 that I cannot figure out. This is a "but it worked before!" situation, the shifts occurred suddenly. They happen in both A and B motor direction, so in the diagonals (I have not observed shifts in x or y direction).

So far I went through the mechanics quite extensively without disassembling the gantry (I think that my question is essentially if I should do that now). Belt paths are clear. No belt rubbing anywhere (the belts do have some discoloration in one location, both belts in the same position, must be an idler at the point where the x and y axes meet, but there is no dust or debris anywhere and the belts are not worn down).

When moving the toolhead by hand, I feel a slight "rattling" in both x and y axis. I think that this is in the mgn carriages, but I also remember that during building they were never 100% smooth, so for the moment I discard this problem. When moving the x axis back and forth, the toolhead sometimes does move a bit left and right, but this has been ever since upgrading to Stealthburner and Tap and went without issues for a long time.

I currently think that this might be a deeper gantry issue or two faulty motors at the same time. Before disassembling the gantry, I would like to ask the crowd if there is anything that I can do to narrow this further down. I measured resistance across the motor coils, all according to spec. I ran the Ellis speed test macro a few times with different speeds and accelerations and had skipped steps at all reasonable speeds (with before and after stepper step location):

Run current: 1A

TEST_SPEED SPEED=500 ACCEL=2500 ITERATIONS=5 BOUND=50

Max velocity: 500mm/s

stepper_x:98577 stepper_y:-19439

stepper_x:99800 stepper_y:12560 (bumped into the gantry)

Run current: 1.2A

TEST_SPEED SPEED=500 ACCEL=2500 ITERATIONS=5 BOUND=50

stepper_x:582 stepper_y:2

stepper_x:1458 stepper_y:1792 (bumped into the gantry)

TEST_SPEED SPEED=300 ACCEL=2500 ITERATIONS=5 BOUND=50

stepper_x:1554 stepper_y:1696

stepper_x:1572 stepper_y:1696 (seems ok at this speed)

TEST_SPEED SPEED=400 ACCEL=2500 ITERATIONS=5 BOUND=50

stepper_x:1990 stepper_y:1666

stepper_x:2353 stepper_y:1795

TEST_SPEED SPEED=300 ACCEL=3500 ITERATIONS=5 BOUND=50

stepper_x:2478 stepper_y:1666

stepper_x:2794 stepper_y:1888

Run current: 1.4A

TEST_SPEED SPEED=300 ACCEL=3500 ITERATIONS=5 BOUND=50

stepper_x:676 stepper_y:34

stepper_x:702 stepper_y:34

TEST_SPEED SPEED=400 ACCEL=3500 ITERATIONS=5 BOUND=50

stepper_x:1091 stepper_y:33

stepper_x:1056 stepper_y:34

TEST_SPEED SPEED=500 ACCEL=3500 ITERATIONS=5 BOUND=50

stepper_x:1438 stepper_y:96

stepper_x:1472 stepper_y:-12382 (strong skipping visible, sometimes stayed in one place with audible motors)

The motors are the stock LDO steppers, rated at 2.0A. Is there anything visible from these measurements? Should I do more measurements? Anything else that I can do to narrow this down before disassembling the gantry?

hey, I havent been keeping up with printers. last one I bought and assembled was a prusa mk3s+ kit so it was quite awhile ago

Hey everyone, I've reached my wits end with my voron 2.4. Before I give up and sell it for parts, does anyone here provide or know of a service where I can pay to have a chat session or video call to help me go through my machine and troubleshoot it? I've reached out for help on the discord and scrolled through the voron forums/ here endlessly and haven't been able to fix it so far, and I'm about to give up.

How hard is it to tune a voron to get the print quality of something like a prusa consistently?

I have a stealthburner with LDO nighthawk SB. The nighthawk will not lay flat on the two threaded insert mount points. I have not figured out what is keeping it from laying flat. There is nothing obvious in the way.

The first pic shows the position of the two threaded inserts that the board mounts on (red arrows):

https://preview.redd.it/dhmumzje4svg1.jpg?width=3472&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=24a1b32acf59b915f71f5f61d8137e5f1c09142d

The second pic shows the board installed, the upper screw tightened, the lower screw loose (and crooked, sorry). The lower screw cannot be tightened fully due to the gap, it would bend or break the board.

https://preview.redd.it/4k226vdx3svg1.jpg?width=3472&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=17d0bde1042f467e2543a450495bd792be5f70ac

Anyone else have this problem?

Hello everyone, Ive been running dragon ace volcano with mze for quite some time, I noticed that my flowrate is only around 30 usually lower and it seems low for this hot end, i have an 80w heater and pt1000 with it but was wondering how or is something wrong with my hotend? What do i need to fix to be able to get close to the advertised flow rates?

How is everyones experience with the flowrate with this hotend?

Want to build a 2.4r2 350mm kit and am narrowing down on my options. Right now my top contender is the FormBot 2.4 R2 Pro+ kit. I looked at the Siboor kit as well but it seems like the FormBot one is more recommended and is the more popular choice. Both will run me around the same price. Any reason to go with the Siboor instead of the FormBot besides having a carthographer vs tap?

Also any "spare parts" or upgrades I should pick up while I'm placing the order? Rapido, clicky-clack kit, CNC tap, etc.? Likely going to buy from their website.

For the FormBot kit I was thinking of getting the Dragon SF hotend instead of the default v6 nozzle and have been told that the CB1 could be a little finicky in terms of reliability. So I've been told to replace it with a CM4 if I can. With the CM4 would I need to get the wireless version? And how much RAM and eMMC storage would I need. I was thinking of 8GB of RAM and 16GB of eMMC but that seems like it might be overkill.

Thank you in advance to everyone that replies.