Im a silent reader here until I pulled the trigger on buying the t598. Gave this unit a chance despite a lot of disconnection issues was posted here but I made sure that I bought a safe unit which has the serial number above 2513. At first, I was using it for 30 mins - 1 hr daily as I was busy at work, but then after only a month , I experienced this quick disconnection, it does not show a disconnection pop up on PS5 (btw I mostly use it on GT7) but its showing a disconnection icon of the steering wheel on the wheelbase itself but only disconnected for 1 sec then reconnects and thought that it was just a minor disconnection then it becomes frequent but not every match, until today it disconnected every match and during game its disconnected every 2 laps and its very disappointing. I even bought a high quality type C as I saw how other guys fixed theirs and I thought that it will fix the issue. And I checked the power supply connector today, nothing is burnt and nothing seems wrong. Rant aside, I will say TM customer support has been good so far on my end. Just hoping they will resolve this....

Hey everyone,

I’m using a Thrustmaster T80 on PC, and I’m running into a weird issue.

In PS3 mode, the wheel is recognized by my PC and games, and steering input works normally. However, the pedals are not being detected correctly. Instead of functioning as analog inputs (accelerator and brake), they are being detected as simple buttons or not giving proper analog control.

What I’ve checked so far:

Wheel is fully recognized on PC

Steering input works fine

PS3 mode is being used

Pedals are connected properly to the wheel base

No loose cables that I can see

The main problem is that I can’t get smooth acceleration or braking because the pedals behave like digital inputs instead of analog ones.

I’m not sure if this is a driver issue, a limitation of PS3 mode on PC, or a hardware problem with the pedal unit itself.

Has anyone dealt with this before or found a fix? Any help would be appreciated.

I went in my Control Configuration Menu and mapped to buttons on how I wanted to the controller to work but when I start up the game the menu starts the change selections even though I'm not touching the controller. I went to my Game Controller menu in windows and did a calibration of the Flight stick. With all that it still bugs out in the menu screen. Is there a solution on how to fix the problem that is causing this to happen.

Ciao a tutti, ho un problema con servo base ts-xw, ho una corona sf1000 ma non viene riconosciuto, fa la calibrazione ma il display non si accende sole dei led accessi e basta. Sul pannello di controllo non viene visto. Provato aggiornamento firmware ma nulla. Sul vecchio t300 funzionava perfettamente. Grazie per le vostre risposte.

I can get the T598 for €420 or the TGT-II for €499. From what I’ve understood, the T598 seems to have quite a few issues and the wheel base sits too high… whereas the TGT-II seems like a safer bet, even if it’s not direct drive.

My budget is €500 max, and I also play on PS5.

Also, quick question for those who own the T598: can the brake and throttle pedals be moved closer together laterally? I’d like to have the two pedals closer to each other, is that possible?

Thanks for your help :)

Ho appena acquistato una pedaliera Raceline Pedals III usata, ma in perfetto stato. Ho avuto un po' di difficoltà nell'applicare le molle poiché non capivo quali fossero esattamente quelle giuste per frizione e acceleratore, poi ho visto sul manuale online che la molla dell'acceleratore era quella più stretta e leggermente più lunga di quella della frizione. Ma ritengo che la frizione sia dura e non riesco a prenderla facilmente fino in fondo (vengo da una T3PA GT). È normale o è un difetto? Non so, qualche montaggio errato?

I had 3 brand new units of the T598. (last 2 with recent serial numbers). First of all, it's an amazing concept. I had the 488 GT3 wheel and a custom made mod for the raceline lte pedals, and I love them, along with the Engine roar and Gear Jolt features. But then it come the bad part:

- As I mentioned, I had 3 units, but all 3 disconnected randomly. But curiously, for different reasons:

1. the first one came with the old problem of disconnection of the power unit (it would shut off).

2. the second would overheat and disconnect (and return without FFB at all) after 25 minutes onto the Blue Lagoon. But then not after a re-run.

3. third one, 50 minutes into the Nurburgring, decided to complain about magnetic interference, also ending up disconnecting.

Then, there other issues common to all:

- FFB would fade away. I could go 10 times in a corner, exactly the same way but the feeling would change

- No FFB on many, many situations where we should feel the car. It was like it was shutdown.

- Many, many random whistling sounds which would get worse throughout sessions. Also, they were not similar to all the 3 unites I used, which does not inspire any confidence.

I've tried everything, dedicated power sources to the wall, filters to remove magnetic interference, proper cable management, using AC to cool down the room. I gave up. As I said, I love the concept they created, but this is simply not a matured product, one that is not that cheap once you start buying wheels and load cell addons.

That said, I'm moving on to Fanatec. Obviously, I'm looking into the GT DD PRO 8nm. Probably going to get the CSL Porsche Vision wheel since it's the only GT one with proper encoders (I think). But I'm on the fence about the pedals, the CSL basic ones with load cell addon, I read they they were (too much) stiff. Also, the gas break is not the greatest and they lack adjustments which was something I liked on Raceline LTE if I'm being honest.

Should I get,

- DD PRO 8nm

- Porsche Vision Concept wheel

- Club Sport v2

What are your thoughts?

I've had a Warthog HOTAS for almost 5 years, and currently, the MIC switch on the throttle lever is very worn and damaged; only buttons 2 and 5 work.

I've been searching for a replacement online for months, and the only thing I've found is a repair service in Canada that doesn't repair damaged plastic parts.

Does nobody know where to get a replacement for this switch? Is there nothing that can be done except buy a new throttle lever?

It's very frustrating to know that Trustmaster still manufactures this HOTAS and that somewhere in the world there's a factory that produces this switch, and yet nobody, absolutely nobody, sells such an important replacement part for a peripheral of this caliber.

Anyway, I appreciate you taking the time to read my problem and trying to help me.

Thanks

Hi, ich habe aktuell das Angebot von einem Kollegen das T598 mit Raceline III Pedalen zu kaufen. In dem Fall wäre es nur die Wheelbase von dem T598, also ohne das Lenkrad. Er hatte das Lenkrad relativ kurz, und will es mir jetzt für 360€ weiter verkaufen. Meint ihr ich soll das kaufen, und wenn ja was für Add On Lenkräder sind gut. (Kann ich mein altes F2004 Add On Lenkrad damit auch nutzen?)