r/MitsubishiMirage

Gently pressing the brakes it’s the loudest. If you press firmly on the brakes it sort of goes away. I cannot figure it out. Coming from passenger side front wheel.

Looking at 2017 mirages and noticing many of them have the same enormous panel gap between the hood and bumper. Is this a factory design choice??? Can you make it smaller by reseating the hood at the hinges? Can you fill the gap with weather stripping or would that cause overheating? Scratching my head here.

Looking at a 2017 cvt with 64k miles from a dealer 8 hours away from me. If they don’t have maintenance records should I sweat it if I don’t know if the cvt fluid has ever been changed? Going for $5900 so I feel like I’ve got a decent margin of safety buying without an inspection. The vehicle history report is spotless and only two owners and looks to be well maintained in pics. Thoughts?

Just went to get my summer tires on but they found a nail in one and couldn fix it

They ordered 2 new ones. Mirage 2019. How.much will those cost me plus putting them on ? Thanks

Hi everyone. I have a 2012 mitsubishi mirage 1.0 G.

I live in Pakistan and have had it since when it was imported in 2015. Currently it has 99k km on it (59300 miles) but unfortunately, one day it's thermostat got stuck closed and it overheated which caused the engine performance to drop and fuel average down to 20 miles per gallon. First thing I noticed after getting thermostat removed was that there's white bubbles in coolant.

Now the weather is very hot 100 degree Fahrenheit. The car died on me 12 times yesterday before I got home. It starts right up after dying but doesn't pick up speed and kinda lingers.

Now I have 2 options. Either get a head gasket replacement or get a whole new engine.

Used imported engine: $250 with labour around $290 which I can easily afford.

Head gasket repair cost: $150 but the problem is there's no mechanic in my city who can fix it properly.

I really want to keep this car.

What do you suggest? New engine or repair?

TIA

Looking at a 2015 DE hatchback. It’s stupid cheap and according to the internet a little lighter than the 2017+ cars. But man that front bumper is tough to look at. What have people done to change the look? Did a quick google but didn’t see much. Thanks for any ideas.

I’ve posted a few CVT fluid change questions here before and have always appreciated the responses and discussions.

I recently called my dealer to ask how much a CVT fluid change would cost at 30K miles on my daughter’s 2024 Mirage G4. They quoted me $330. When I asked what that included, they said it was a complete flush using their machine (I’m hoping it’s not like the old flush machines from years ago… I assume it isn’t). So I imagine that means all—or nearly all—of the fluid would be replaced. That was the full extent of the service, with no external filter change included.

If I were to do it myself, I’d likely go with a drain-and-fill, which would replace a little less than half of the fluid, along with changing the external filter. I would also document everything—similar to how I record my oil changes for warranty purposes—using photos and video, so I have a record in case of any future CVT warranty claims.

That got me thinking: would I actually be covered? The dealer would be replacing all (or nearly all) of the fluid, whereas I’d only be replacing about half. Would that difference matter from a warranty standpoint or either way it was "serviced" and that is what matters?

Appreciate the thoughts!

I’m posting this in a few different forums to get some clarity on my questions, and I’d appreciate any insight.

I’m working on my daughter’s 2024 Mitsubishi Mirage G4 and am approaching the 30K transmission service. I plan to do a drain-and-fill along with replacing the external plastic filter. I initially thought everything was straightforward, but then I started reading about the CVT fluid deterioration counter.

I have a bi-directional scan tool, but it does not reset this counter. From what I understand, resetting it may be necessary so the CVT can properly adjust to the new fluid. While researching here and on other forums, I came across the ELM327 v1.5 OBD2 adapter and the CVTz50 app. It seems there are relatively inexpensive (~$25) dongles available that can perform the reset. However, I’ve also read that using them can sometimes trigger warning lights on the dash, requiring the car to be cycled on and off a few times to clear them.

So, I have a few questions:

1. At 30K miles, is resetting the deterioration counter even necessary? Since a drain-and-fill doesn’t replace all the fluid, the new fluid mixes with the old, so a full reset doesn’t seem entirely accurate. So, maybe at 60K when dropping the pan reset it then.
2. If an issue arises, will the dealer check the deterioration counter? Even if I thoroughly document the service (I record my maintenance for documentation), could a warranty claim be denied because the counter wasn’t reset?
3. I’ve done my own automotive work for many years and am very familiar with bi-directional scan tools. Still, it feels odd to interact with a module in a way that may temporarily generate errors requiring multiple restarts to clear. Is there any real risk of damaging the module? I don’t mind buying the dongle if it’s safe to use.

My goal here is simply to maintain the CVT properly and keep everything in good working order while preserving the warranty (hopefully never needed). I hope this all makes sense, and I appreciate any guidance.

Thank you everyone!

Is it relatively doable to replace the whole door panel without a mechanic

Hello someone have the manual user for that year ? Or where is it?

Not sure if this is a unique set of circumstances, but haven't yet found a post similar to mine.

Bought a 2015 89k miles, unknown service, but fluids and engine compartment appeared to be free of giant red flags. Also passed emissions test two months prior. Drove the car home from the purchase (65 highway miles) and around town to run errands (20ish city miles) - no problems.

My wife uses it for doordash for about two weeks (misc city driving with lots of breaks between short 2-8 mile runs) - no problems.

One day after a 30 mile trip on the highway, we get the flashing D, limp to O'Reilly get the infamous P1590/P0841 and a P1797 comes free because we're nice people.

Have the transmission serviced at an indie tranny shop where they tell me the pan magnet looked decent and nothing looked out of the ordinary - just relatively used, ready for change CVT fluid.

On my way home (30 miles highway), throws the D again, limp to O'R, same codes but the emission scan has gone from red to yellow...

Wife does another few days of in city doordashing with no issues. I buy the A30D dongle and take the car out for a drive, and watch as the temp of the transmission slowly rises. Poke around under the hood and discover the coolant is low, fill that and take it for another drive. Tranny temp is pegged on 187 the whole way (35 miles highway).

Today, take it on 35 mile highway drive, get the flashing D. Plug the A30D in and find that the radiator coolant temp is at 195, which is allegedly spec, and my transmission temp hit 199.

How is something that needs to be in the high 180s going to be efficiently cooled by something operating in the mid 190s? What am I missing?

Hello I tried to find the manual user and not able, someone have it ? Or where is it ?