So proud, first neck and neck pocket
I got sweat when doing this. My own neck, self made neck pocket template, a bit of sanding and there it is. Not perfect, but a lot better than I expected 🙂
I got sweat when doing this. My own neck, self made neck pocket template, a bit of sanding and there it is. Not perfect, but a lot better than I expected 🙂
As the title says, I’ve been very interested in angine de poitrine and saw something that said Khn built it himself. I have a cheaper guitar and bass lying around and was wondering how I could turn them into a double neck. I want to do it myself to save myself from the luthier costs and was wondering how I would do that and or if there were any tutorials.
So this is my dean ml and the posts are tilted towards the neck, one of my mates said it’s fine because of the headstock angle but google says otherwise. I’m taking this guitar to a luthier soon so I’ll get him to fix these while he’s at it if need be. Thanks all! (Currently don’t have any more pics as I’m at work and this was bugging me so I thought I’d ask now, can get more pics if you need them)
Didn’t want to spend more on a steamer than I spent on the guitar, so my espresso machine and shed parts did the trick
Someone dropped off this guitar (a Gibson-style ES-335, supposedly a Custom Shop model—though I’m not entirely sure if it’s authentic, but that’s not the point). The headstock was broken. Clearly, he tried to glue it back together themselves using the wrong adhesive and even drove three screws and nuts straight through the wood—obviously, it didn’t hold.
I was planning to cut away the glue-filled sections, do a mahogany graft, then reshape the neck and headstock. But I suddenly had serious doubts: I wanted a straightforward repair, gluing the pieces with a 90° cut. However, to better withstand string tension, shouldn’t I instead use a trapezoid-shaped sculpted graft? How would you approach this?
Was just putting the finishing touches on my second build. Did a Blackmachine style headstock and a superstrat style body.
Black limba body
Maple and walnut neck
Beli fretboard and headstock overlay (similar to zebra wood. I had never heard of it before but figured I’d give it a try)
Finished with Tru-oil.
Bridge, tuners, pickups are all Guyker. I’m still learning and didn’t want to make huge investments in things I can upgrade later if needed.
It plays really well, which exceeded my expectations!
Made a LOT of mistakes but the good news is they were different mistakes than the ones I made on my first build, so… progress?
So I bought this weirdo spectrum 5 lookin’ 1 off guitar because it just looked too cool. I plug it in and it works just fine with the top circuit turned off. The 3 bottom (high E side) switches seem to just be normal pickup on/off switches, and the 2 pots in standard location are just volume and tone. Then I clicked on a pot that seems to be a beautiful sounding built in pre-amp.
That’s about where my understanding of these electronics ends. So the top (low E side) switches are a mystery. 1 seems to do nothing, 2 seems to toggle between pre-amp on/off when the pot for the preamp is enabled, and 3 just seems to be a killswitch for when preamp is enabled.
Now pots 1 and 2 seem to never do anything, and pot 3 seems to be an on/off switch with unnecessary extra travel.
This is the first guitar I’ve ever owned with this many switches and pots so maybe I’m just doing it wrong but if anyone could shed some light that would be amazing.
Wondering if I should just set everything where it works and leave it, get it checked out by a pro, or maybe tackle it, if it even needs tackling, myself. I have built electrics from parts before so soldering and troubleshooting isn’t out of my wheelhouse, but figuring out what (if anything) is wrong, definitely is.
TL;DR
Any clue what all these switches should be doing? Should I just get this looked at by a professional smart person?
Or should I just close it back up and enjoy what switch configs work (and sound amazing)?
Can anyone chime in and help identify the body wood type? This is my baby, just a fender knock off, it feels crazy light (6lbs 8oz) and resonates like crazy, super loud unplugged. Considering trying to recreate it since I’ve worn the frets out and I’m too nervous to have it refretted. I know that probably sounds crazy but this guitar is home base for me and it just has the IT factor and I don’t want to risk messing up the feel of it.
So I got a Hamer XT Monaco a decade or so ago, and it came with a licensed Floyd Rose. The thing is that I never liked the thing from the start, but I love the guitar. So it has been blocked from week one or so. The Floyd Rose is looking a bit shabby these days, so I have been contemplating swapping it out. The question then is whether I should go for a nice FR replacement, or swap it out entirely with a hardtail. I am not planning on refinishing the guitar, so if I go the route of replacing it with a hardtail then I want to fill the voids with a nice contrasting wood like walnut. Alternatively I can mount something like the Gotoh 1996T and simply block it from functioning again.
The woodworking part doesn't really scare me at all, but I wanted to know what you guys, girls, and enbies think. Would a straight up FR replacement like the Gotoh GE1996T be best? Or should I fill the void and go for a proper hardtail like the Gotoh 510FX, or Schaller Hannes?
Another violin ready to meet its new owner in just a few days 😊
Happy Easter 😊
Sound sample: https://youtu.be/6QphGPW3_Iw
web: www.seflstrings.cz
Hey all, first time refinishing a guitar and not sure on product to use. I sanded down a '91 Peavey Dynabass to bare wood and I am thinking about giving it a wood stain finish. Any ideas on what product to use and what to seal it with? Any ideas appreciated
I am looking for good advice for my first guitar build: Is it wise to route the joint between the heel of a maple neck and the heel pocket in the body very tight, or can it be routed slightly looser? When I apply glue to the heel of the maple neck and the heel pocket in the body (this heel pocket consists of 50% mahogany and 50% maple/ebony top layers)... these parts become moistened by the glue. Could they expand slightly as a result?... Wouldn't a slightly looser fit before the gluing process be better? Is there a rule regarding how tight or loose the fit between the body pocket and the neck heel ideally should be, or *may* be, before applying glue? This gluing and fitting issue is still bothering me during my current guitar building process... is there any professional advice for me on how to approach this guitar building topic?
Hello,
I wasn't aware of the recent availability on the budget desktop CNC machines and quite tempted to go for one for engraving headstock logos, back of the headstock serials and maybe even custom 12th fret inlays. But basically only intricate work, not shaping necks or bodies or anything "big".
Thinking about also shaping the inlay material with the CNC to fit in the holes that are made in the wood.
Have seen some video reviews that are positive about the Two Trees TTC450 Ultra and the price is looking good as well. Anybody using this machine for the same purposes?
Based in Europe, ideally max 700-800 euro price range.
Thanks!
hello, I installed a limba neck that I made from scratch onto a gibson sg modern that had fallen from a wall mount. I really like my dcjr's finish. I've heard gibson doesnt grain fill their cheap models, such as mine. I like the grain being visible and feeling it.
I have grain filler, and can make grain filler, but skipping that step is the direction I think I want to go with.
So, what should my steps be? do I simply hit the neck with nitrocellulose clear coat and call it good, or do I need to use a sanding sealer first to keep the nitro from sinking.
Pic included is of the guitar in question.
hey everyone, im a guitarist who tries to take care of his own guitars. i have this epiphone sg custom ive been playing for almost a year now. ive recently put 8-38 on it and top wrapped the strings. the action is VERY low and it plays like butter. theres no buzz apart from the d string 14th fret, it touches the 15th and dies out very quickly. could this be a high fret? there are no other buzzing anywhere and the neck is almost straight.
also the g string 7th / d string 12th frets die out instantly, and the open d string sounds week, like some freqencies die out. would heavier tuners or anything else fix this? im ok with it shifting to a c# or d#.
thanks everyone in advance. im pretty new to these things.
The measurements on what I will be using is m4 x m6, 25mm or 30mm. Use a RG7420, the trem claw here isn't my guitar because I'm too lazy to unscrew the backplate but it is really similar to this pic.
Hi everyone! I don’t know if this is the right place to post this but I really need some help. My dad got me this oud from Egypt. It wasn’t like this when he got it, but apparently the glue melted cause he kept it in the bag too long? That’s what he told me at least. I saw pictures of it before he got on his flight so it was damaged while he was traveling. The base board of the strings is completely detached and the strings got tangled. Is there any way I could fix this? What type of glue do you recommend? My sister said she could restring it for me. Any advice would be very helpful.
Hi everyone, I’m building this guitar and are running into scale length issues. I’m trying to install this Wilkinson bridge using the existing six hole location. If I do this, the scale length is 26.375 inches (nut to saddle). I cannot move the bridge plate any closer to the neck due to the “swimming pool” route.
How would you proceed with this issue?
Could I route the bridge edge of the neck pocket to close the gap in distance or will it compromise the structural integrity beyond repair?
Or should I scrap it and just get a new guitar body for this project?
Thanks!