





I’m in search of the quietest and shortest suppressor that is full auto rated that I can get for my 9mm Kriss Vector
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Hi Everybody. Long story short. I’ve been under a rock for the last 3 months and just got around to installing my RATL-R on my Gen2.1. I am catching up and seeing posts that there might be an issue with the early batch. I was order #1XX.
During function check, I get a very heavy trigger pull on semi and the safety lever moves when I pull the trigger (see video). The force reset doesn’t feel like it’s engaging during RATL-R mode. Strangely enough, it feels like it does on semi. Metal safety cam installed.
Things to note:
- sear seems very tight when installed to trigger
- safety cam is metal purchased separately
- have not test fired due to function check failing
Any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.
The right side mag release on the g3 is going to take a lot of work. The arm hits in the new cutout for the g3 release. It shouldn’t be hard to clearance that. The problem is the Glock style latch itself. The g3 changed the latch. Aside from the spring notch in the wrong spot that someone mentioned, the whole arm should be remade. I should be able to make one that will work with the modified arm. 🤞🏽
As for the safety levers. The aluminum levers work just fine. The round barrel part of the lever is a little smaller but being aluminum, it wouldn’t matter.
Now to the flat face trigger. It’s very close but not a drop in. The first difference is the seer pin is a threaded pin. This is kinda nice as the vector pin is punched in and extremely hard. The threaded pin of the new trigger is slightly larger than the OEM. This means the slot in the frt needs to be opened up a little. A few passes with a file or a dremmel will do just fine. We are only talking about .002” maybe. The pin goes in, it just makes the trigger tight vs free moving. The bigger issue is the pivot pin. The pin for the OEM is 4mm (measured 3.95mm). The hole in the new trigger measures about 4.3mm. This is way too big and won’t work. The easy fix for me was to make a 6mm OD 4mm ID sleeves. A few min on the lathe and I made the sleeve from a 6mm stainless pin I have laying around. I stepped up the hole in the new trigger until i got to the 6mm but. It drills a hole to 5.98 mm so a perfect tight fit for the sleeve. This tool care of any slop in the trigger pin.
Last is the face at the back of the trigger that contacts the safety. The new trigger has extra material there. A simple round sander took enough material off. You just want to take off enough so there is about .010” space between the trigger and the safety in the safe position. The trigger feels really good now. Weight went up from 2 lb 14 oz to 3 lb 9 oz. It’s probably due to the shape and the leverage. It can also be the new sleeve is a little tighter then the OEM trigger. My sleeve id measured 3.98 and the In is 3.95mm. The OEM hole measure 4mm. I guess a 4mm reamer would fix this but it’s fine. Weight is in semi position.
So anyone looking for a bit different of a trigger and want to put the work in, it’s possible.
Hey everyone,
I’m a solo hardware developer with a patent for a Bluetooth device that mounts to your rifle to completely automate your live-fire training analytics.
Over 75 shooters have already helped shape this app's data model, but almost all of them run standard ARs or handguns. Running a bullpup requires totally different muscle memory—especially for reloading and managing the heavier trigger linkages. I am building a hardware ecosystem that passively tracks your exact reload speeds, draw-to-first-shot, and split times during wet sessions, building a dashboard to show your progression.
I want to make sure I am capturing the exact data that shooters with unique manuals of arms actually care about.
I have a quick 4-minute anonymous R&D survey. As a thank you for keeping the momentum going, I’m buying a pair of Walker's XCEL 100s out of pocket to give away to one person who helps me out.
(Survey link is in the first comment below).
Let me know what you consider to be the most critical metric to track when trying to get faster with a bullpup setup!
What do you guys run to mount your suppressors too besides for 3 lug. I'm looking for something so I don't have to direct thread anymore.
This is the second set I've received from the same retailer. While the first set had KRISS embossed in them, this set has DEFIANCE. I was under the impression that these are Krytac licenced airsoft replicas, but the shop is insisting they came direct from KRISS.
I live in MA and have a pre ban vector. The barrel is of course 16in and was wondering if a foregrip was legal for me ? Or should I go with an angled grip?
It doesn’t look THAT bad, does it? Took me a while to find a riser to get the Romeo & Juliet3 high enough and back far enough to get a clear sight picture with the magnifier and this $18.99 riser from Onhunt is where I landed. Sure, I’d prefer an eotech and a G33, but that combo would cost the same as what I paid for the Vector. I also considered a Holosun AEMS Pro with the HM3X, but I already had the Sig optics, and I’d still be looking at a way to raise the HM3X.
What is your best suppressor adapter recommendation for this goofy ass thread pattern? What have you experienced, what have you learned etc? I plan on getting a can but most cans are 5/8x24 or 1/2x28 so what do you recommend?
Pros and cons to 25M vs 50M?
My space opera inspired Vector build. For home defense because my family likes not being deaf and it's stupid quiet with 230 gr subs. Plus 60 rounds on board.
Build list:
Gen II 5.5" SDP in 45 ACP, form 1 to SBR.
Silencer Co Osprey45 direct thread
RATL-R 3 position FRT
Kriss MkI handguard and folding stock adapter
BCM buffer tube
Hera CCS stock
Recover tactical MG45 mag pouch
SureFire ProTac HL-X
Sig Romeo 5 red dot(Upgrading to Aimpoint ACRO as soon as the Arisaka riser gets delivered)