r/JeepCherokeeXJ

Is it possible and does anybody have pictures of the stock flares from 97-01 mounted higher with sheet metal trimmed under for more clearance

Running 32x11.5 r15 on about 4.5” lift

Got some Timkin hubs on Amazon through them on both sides, the old ones were seized. Runs great smooth and lots of swerving allowance 😀

Long story short I got a P1491 code (aux electric fan circuit issue) about 2 weeks ago and tried to nurse it along for a long drive. It overheated going up a mountain so I shut it off and towed it the rest of the way.

Today I checked the engine bay after I got it back from a shop to get that code fixed (wasn’t actually fixed) and noticed that my coolant reservoir level was sitting super high and had this diarrhea looking gunk in it.

I’m guessing that it’s oil but also confused why the coolant is sitting so high. Dipstick and engine oil cap both looked fine too.

Any advice would be helpful. Thanks!

Hey Everyone, I have been looking for a new car and the Jeep Cherokee 2nd gen has caught my eye. I found something on Facebook marketplace that looks amazing and was wondering if anyone can give me advice on what to look out for. The owner mentioned issues with stalling but that’s all I know. It’s listed for only 1,500 which seems like a steal. I attached some photos. Any advice would be appreciated since it’ll be my first time owning a jeep :)

I have an 89, and for the past couple of weeks it has started to vibrate but only on deceleration once I get down to like 15 mph or so but driving normal speeds is perfectly fine. I know it’s definitely the driveline ofc but do you guys think it’s more so the u joints that need to be replaced or is it possibly the pinion angle etc. for reference I have a 5.5” long arm kit and a SYE. Also I know it’s definitely not the rear diff I already pulled the cover and everything was perfect.

Was wondering if anyone could help me figure out why I’m still getting a vibration even after putting this sye kit on I’ll post some pics if you guys could make sure I put everything in right thanks.

I have a 1990 renix era that has been sitting for a few years with the oversized pressure bottle and I removed it and converted to an overflow bottle and radiator cap. Removed the heater valve and go right into the heater core. When trying to run it and push air out, no air comes out but I get a “gasp” sound and then nothing.
I’ve replaced the water pump, thermostat, upper rad hose, blower motor switch, blower motor relay. The blower motor is relatively new still and I checked for mice nest. The wires connected to the blower motor switch look ok and not fried. I’ve capped whatever vacuum hoses I could find.
What are some things I’m missing? What do you think?

Thanks in advance

recently overheated my 2001, radiator blew and for some reason i thought i could make it home(first time… now i know..). i replaced the radiator and a couple other things and then it started knocking a couple days of driving. took it apart to find a lower part of piston 6 blew apart but no damage to the block. i bought some dexj pistons and slapped them in but im worried my head might have issues because its the 2000/2001 “bad” head. i don’t see any visible damage and i was just going to throw it back on. is it worth it to go to a junkyard and pull a head off of an older or newer 4.0 for that concern? orr just send it and see if it’s cracked later? what main issues would come up if it IS cracked? just leaking oil? idk too much about the head.

This was my daily driver.
I used to take it everywhere.
Until I bought my new car, I parked it and been trying to work on it a little by little.. so today I gave it a well needed wash and put a car cover over it 🤙🏼
#jeepcherokee #97 #XJ

Hello all,

I previously posted a picture (reattached in this) of the rats nest wiring job the previous owner had in the 89 xj.

I’m starting over from scratch. Separated and cut the wires by color. I’m now left with solid color wires and striped color wires along with the harness wires that came with the new radio.

See the attached pictures. Hopefully someone knows how to help and how I should connect these. I typed out everything in the one picture. Thanks!!!

The other day I was messing around in 2wd, Arb air locker NOT engaged and went to pull onto pavement and heard my rear end click on the drivers side when I was turning sharp. My first thought was that the air locker had somehow locked up on me. Drove just fine in a straight line so I limped it home at like 15mph only 5 minutes from my house. Upon further inspection it looks like the c clips have somehow started to tilt in. Cross pin is fully tight so there should be no reason that the axles should move so I’m pretty unsure how this could happen. Currently has a Chrysler 8.25 rear end with 4.88 gears, arb air locker, and chromoly axle shafts. How bad is this going to be to fix. I’d prefer to not rebuild it myself (ptsd with rear ends). Gears look to be completely fine. Will my locker and axle shafts be recoverable?

The best part is the estimated annual fuel cost: $1058.

Well just wrote out a long explanation but it deleted for some reason.

Big hole in subframe. No other evident rust underneath or on body except for normal culprits (rockers and floor pans) but otherwise great shape.

What could’ve caused this hole and is it worth fixing or trying to sell the jeep for parts? Motor, transmission and transfer case are in great shape.

2001 Sport 170k miles

Use McGuire‘s cutter and polish turned out pretty nice IMO

For anyone that’s happened to see any of the post I’ve made this is what we got to (there was choccy milk in the coolant😔)

I am trying to make sure that I get the right pan and filter for my jeep and I’m having trouble getting what i need online 🤔 (Yes I know I’m dumb). This tag was located on the passenger side.