Hi looking at some budget friendly options for a hat press. Do you have one you’d reccomend? This isn’t a business just a hobby for me so don’t want to make a large investment. Thoughts on the Vevor press?
Also what’s your favorite hat style/brand to press? Any and all recommendations are welcome.
Not only am I 2 weeks into this graphic design job but the company I work for has previously only ever send raster images off to be vectorised before printing.
Trying to change this as I believe that in image situations half-toning creates a better result. We are currently struggling with adhesion though.
PS bit map half tone setting used on this test image are: 37.5 lpi, 23.5 angle, round half tones. Should be well within the range of our printer to print.
My question is, is this a file issue where I should re-halftone the image to a lower lpi, or is this a printer/printhead issue/printer settings issue?
Rush orders are a reality in any custom print business and while they're great for revenue they can also be the source of your worst quality mistakes if you're cutting corners under time pressure. The DTF process has several stages printing, curing, pressing each of which needs adequate time to produce a reliable result, and skipping or rushing any of them creates predictable failure points. Building a rush workflow that maintains your quality standard while still delivering fast is something every growing shop needs to figure out.
SO FAR I ORDERED FROM BEARDTF AND COBRADTF. COBRAS COLORS WERE DEF BRIGHTER. I'M GOUNG TO ORDER FROM GHOST DTF NEXT TO TRY.
PLEASE LET ME KNOW YOUR OPINIONS ON COMPANIES YOU'VE TRIED.
Question: Does anyone know if I could send someone an idea for a shirt design (could be a rough picture from ai 😬) but they can make it look better (does not have to be exact). And send me a png that I can get printed to put on shirts? Is that a thing?
If you don’t is there a good place for me to design a shirt because I am not creative nor can I draw.
I bought a Procolored K13 Lite for my business and it had a dead printhead on arrival. It took procolored 10 hours of troubleshooting to be ok with sending me one. I used up 750mL of ink (3 small bottle) in the interim and they refuse to send me more than 1 white ink bottle because I (should have only used 12%) I'm at a loss with them. I'm going to end up opening a Better Business Bureau complaint and might have to get the bank involved to dispute some costs of the printer and ink. Anyone else have experience with them?
To be CLEAR,
I am NOT a newbie. Okay, fine, I am a noobie. But I have been printing the t-shirts for the past 6 months, and it has been great. The wonderful people I am leasing from are renovating the space for free, so that is great. In the meantime, I am looking for equipment to put in there. I have been doing a ton of DTF, been dipping into screenprint, and I have some huge orders coming up that are enough to hit my goal, which will let me buy some good equipment.
I was thinking a nice 6 color 6 station, but I am not sure about brands or if any of that matters. Side note, should I buy new or used? I just need somebody to point me in the right direction.
I heard about RANAR from Mylo Prints (my favorite screen printing creator so far), and I was thinking about going with them if nobody answers me, but let me know what you guys think.
Hello all!
My company is starting to print shirts for 5k races and we are wondering what’s a good DTF printer setup with shaker and dryer you guys recommend? We have bought a Prestige R2 pro and Miro 13 max shaker dryer from the company DTF Station and it has been a disaster. We haven’t been able to make any communications from printer to computer after trying a bunch of different stuff with tech support and are just going to send it back and look another direction. Our budget is up to 20k, we want something mid level as we usually do orders for around a couple hundred shirts per job, 2-3 jobs per month. We aren’t a huge scale company yet but would like something that would last us a while before needing to upgrade. Easy-ish setup and maintenance, doesn’t constantly have problems or parts breaking. Overall good reviewed DTF printers and dryer setups! Any advice is appreciated (:
Thank you!
Hey guys,
Finally decided to get the Xtool DTF Printer together with their oven shaker. This thing is printing fast and is easy to handle, but I have the problem that my prints get pinholes after baking.
To explain, at first prints came out burnt, now I have lowered the temperature so they don't burn or get yellow or shrink. This works, but I get pinholes.
Can anyone tell me the solution or give me their settings for copy and paste?
Thank you!!
Workwear and uniforms are a lucrative and repeat-heavy market for custom decorators, but they come with durability demands that casual apparel just doesn't — industrial laundry cycles, high-temperature washing, and heavy daily wear put transfers through stress that a normal consumer wash test won't reveal. If you're pitching DTF to a business that needs 50 staff polos washed twice a week in a commercial laundry, the stakes are a lot higher than a one-off custom tee. Understanding where DTF's durability limits actually are for this use case matters before you make promises to a client.
Hi everyone, I’m trying to diagnose a DTF issue that has been driving me crazy for weeks.
My problem is that solid colors (especially reds and dark colors) come out with a porous / grainy / sandy texture after curing. It almost looks like tiny holes or a dry chalky finish.
The weird thing is:
WHITE prints look fine.
The issue mainly happens on COLORS.
Especially reds and darker saturated tones.
The print still has color and coverage, but the surface texture looks broken/grainy.
At this point I’ve already changed almost everything:
What I already changed:
New white ink
Color inks are relatively new
Changed film
Changed powder
Different curing temperatures
Different curing times
Different humidity conditions
Cleaning cycles / maintenance
Nozzle checks look good
Head does not appear clogged
Important detail:
If I print a FULL WHITE design, it looks much smoother and does NOT show the same porous texture.
Anyone have suggestions for blanks for printing that are long sleeve button up shirts with a collar? I need both black and white. And something that will hold a print.
I don’t believe I’ve ever seen button shirts at any of the typical blank suppliers, but I’ve also never really thought to look for them until a request just came in.
Small quantity, probably about 25 or so of each color. But I definitely don’t want to pay retail store prices for the shirts.
Getting the white underbase right is one of the most technically nuanced parts of DTF production, especially when you're printing on dark fabrics where the white layer does all the heavy lifting for color vibrancy. Too little white ink and colors look washed out, too much and the transfer feels stiff and plastic-like on the garment. Dialing in the right balance requires understanding both your RIP software settings and how your specific ink and film interact.
Activewear and performance fabrics represent a huge and growing market for custom decoration, but their stretch, synthetic composition, and moisture-wicking treatments create unique challenges for DTF adhesion and durability. A transfer that looks perfect when first applied can crack, peel, or separate from the fabric after just a few wears and washes if the application wasn't dialed in for that material. This is an area where technique and transfer quality really separate good results from disappointing ones.
Hi! I have been researching about half toning and color knockout a lot and understand how they work what I can't find any information on is how DTF would look if textures were applied onto the artwork like the photos I have attached. I'm a graphic designer and I go through a local print shop for my prints. I am wondering if there are any limitations for printing effects like these, or if they are too complicated, thanks :)
