r/Cummins

I think I already know the answer, but just want another "set of eyes" on my plan.

I have a 2014 that I installed a new set of BBI injectors and delivery tubes into ~15k miles ago.

I purchased a 2016 that has factory injectors with 42k miles on.

I'm going to sell the 2014, but before I do I'm planning to swap over the injectors so I retain my lower mile newer injectors.

As long as I keep the delivery tubes paired with the injector they are already with, I should be fine to swap without needing new delivery tubes. Correct?

Thanks

Bought a 16 limiter with a " rebuilt " trans. Few months later it would bang hard into first or stall out and go into nuetral when I came to a stop/go. Truck would bang hard into drive from shifting from park. Had a should tell me it needs to be rebuilt because of the issue. I had no proof of it being rebuilt already so I went with it. Had it rebuilt & same issue. Still hangs harder into first sometimes. Guy said it needed to be relearned. Took it back a week later then he said it was a bad defect valve body. New one in. Then he said solenoid new one in. Then took it back few weeks later same issue then he said it was trans leaking fluid that's why it was banging again. Fixed it then same issue weeks later. Now he's saying it's a bad trans computer?!?!. Over 6200 still having the same issue!. Shifts like crap too since rebuild or shifted the same. I'm thinking on taking him to court for my money back. Any ideas? Any shops you recommend in SWFL?

I keep seeing 2008-2014 cummins powered rams for less than I've bought 2nd gens for and with less miles. Why are early 4th gens less sought after?

hey guys i need to find a new transmission and I've been looking at a few (suncoast, Randy's, and revmax) I'm putting everything into this so I'd like to have a unit basically be one and done, what would y'all recommend all units would be the 700+ ones. please any help would be greatly appreciated looking to make a decision soon
68rfe

2017 ram 3500 mega cab dually

Hey guys, we have an 09 6.7 g56 that sat for 2 years and now has a turbo issue. Zero boost at any point. Is there a way we can unseize the turbo without pulling?

Debating on if I do a paint matched or black oem grill on my truck would love to see some of yalls

I’m in search of a crew cab short bed diesel pickup truck

chevy/gmc/ford/dodge

Pre emissions or post emissions.

must be absolutely rust free.

Under 140k miles.

4x4

Closer to New England the better but

Will travel anywhere for right truck

Budget up to $30k

if your truck isn’t absolutely rust free and doesn’t have under 140k I am not interested. Thanks.

2014 3500. I had a bad exhaust manifold leak last year that got worse and worse. It would make a reed valve sound when my exhaust brake would engage and eventually would make it when turbo spooled up. Ended up replacing the stock manifold with a 2 piece BD unit and while they were there I did the banks heater grid and intake horn. Noise went away for 10k miles or so.

I took it on a 2000 mile trip towing my camper and it started making the sound again on exhaust brake and while pulling hills spooling turbo. Also wasn’t getting full boost. Took it in again and replaced every stock elbow with mishimoto silicone boots as well as added an exhaust mount just past downpipe that was not there. They also checked all of the work they had done on manifold and said it was fine.

Anyways I get the truck back and have to use it immediately to haul again and it is still making the sound while engaging the exhaust brake. But if i gas it and then engage it again it sounds normal. I am getting full boost but the sound is annoying.

What else can I look at? I was going to check the egr delete plates and see if there is signs of leaking there. Anything else to check that’s easy?

I do trust the shop and I really don’t think manifold is leaking again.